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Hi all! I've got myself a Pfaff 1245-706 machine, and thanks to reading other posts on this forum I've been able to (mostly) get it cleaned up and running. When I say mostly running I mean everything seems like it's mechanically smooth, oiled and greased properly, I've spent a lot of time making sure I'm threading it properly and testing out thread and needle sizes to get the right fit. I've finished making a tote bag which mostly went fine, when I say it's running I mean that with enough fussing I've had it making nice stitches for long enough to finish a project. The problem I'm having now (and a bit when I did my first project) is that it seems like it's incredibly easy to throw the timing off. To the point where I can't really re-attach the drip tray under the table or cover the gears that spin the hook race because I need to access and adjust them so often. I'm following the steps outlined in this video starting around 16:36. So I'm getting the needle to the lower dead point, loosening the two screws on the small gear, and adjusting so the hook meets the middle of the scarf when the needle in about 3mm up. And this works... Kind of. Like I said before, I was able to the machine working nicely long enough to finish a tote bag, but basically any little hiccup - tension slightly being off, bobbin winding being a bit too loose, etc. results in the timing being thrown off. Sometimes if there's a big thread tangle I'll have to reset the safety clutch, but often I'll have to adjust the timing without the safety clutch needing to be reset. I can't quite figure out how this happens, as I'm re-tightening the screws on the small gear after re-timing. One guess I have is that this is a tension issue. The thread is usually quite hard to pull through the machine when it's threaded. When I had it working properly the tension dial was set very low and that was producing good stitches, but it seems suspicious. That thread wasn't particularly heavy (it's unlabeled so I'm not sure of it's size) I was sewing with a system 190 size 130 needle which was a good size to have the thread pass through the needle easily. I'm experienced enough with sewing that I think I can match a thread and needle size pretty well. I'm currently trying to set it up to use a heavier thread, labeled as Cansew CBB138 nylon. I'm using a 160 size needle and that seems about right, but again just pulling it through the machine when it's threaded and the foot is up/tension discs loosened, it's in there quite firmly. I wonder if I should be adjusting the way I'm threading, like maybe just going through a single loop on the top finger instead of winding it around a few times like they recommend in the manual? This is my first time working with an upholstery machine and thread this heavy, so I'm not quite sure if it's normal to adjust the threading path if tension is too high, or even if the settings should have to be so precise to avoid jams and skipped stitches. Every other machine I've used from domestics to an industrial Pfaff 563 was a lot more forgiving when it came to threading and tension, very rarely had thread breaking or skipped stitches so I'm curious to hear thoughts on what might be happening with this 1245 machine. As of right now with this heavier thread, it's not really jamming or breaking thread, but after the first few stitches the timing seems off and stitches are no longer being made properly. I can provide pictures if that helps at all, thanks in advance!

Help!! The presser foot lifter on my skiver will not stay down. It feels like the spring is shooting it back up whenever I try to skive. I have taken apart my consew dcs-s4 skiver 3 times to try to figure this out but cannot. The instruction manual is really only a parts catalog and doesn’t offer help. The spring inside looks fine. The rare occasion I get the handle to stay in the down position, it will skive for a moment the the handle shoots up and releases the presser foot so it doesn’t skive anything off. I bought it from a sewing shop that recently started carrying skivers for the pandemic demands so they aren’t very familiar with skivers and cannot offer much help. 66285906847__CB624500-FA42-4BA4-A712-97BE830DE189.MOV

Hi, I am hoping someone can help me identify an issue with my new cobra class 26 sewing machine. I just received it on Monday and assembled it yesterday, which seemed rather straightforward. I just got the machine turned on and running this morning and am concerned about this loud sound the machine is making while in use. It seems to be coming from under the machine. I reached out to leather machine co. but am awaiting a response. I was hoping someone in the meantime could offer any insight. Please check out the videos. Thank you! IMG_3123 (4).mov

I'm having an issue with a Consew 226. When turning the handwheel there are two sticking points in the rotation. I wanted to determine weather it was friction in the upper shaft or lower shaft, so I slid the timing belt off and found the two sticking points were related to the lower shaft. So I reinstalled the timing belt, making sure to align the arrows under the machine (they were aligned before as well). I had to replace the hook anyway, so I went ahead and swapped that out. I chased the old hook out with a 3/8" dowel to prevent the gear from moving. Machine now sews well, but still has two points where there's more friction somewhere in the lower shaft. - Adjusted for symmetrical foot lift - Adjusted feed dog fore/aft position -Adjusted feed dog height - Made sure rocker bar spacing was 8.5mm @ zero stitch length All of these settings were very close to correct, and didn't seem to improve the friction issue I was having. I can remove the drive belt, thread, needle, and throat plates and feet and still have the two sticking points. Decreasing the foot pressure springs to zero makes a very subtle improvement. I have obviously oiled each point tenaciously, but still have two "sticking points" that occur when the take up lever is approaching top position, and approaching bottom position. Any thoughts?

I am getting a lot of the run around in trying to get troubleshooting, setup, repair manual for a Singer 29-4. Can anyone steer me in the right direction?

I recently (one month ago) got a Cobra Class 4 machine and I haven't been able to get it adjusted correctly yet. Is there a troubleshooting guide out there that shows pictures that say if your machine is doing this then try this? I did 3 passes the first two left to right and the 3rd right to left. I changed the needle between the first and second pass. Thread size 277 needle size 25 (passes 2 and 3 with S point)on a single layer of 12oz saddle skirting. The back side looks pretty good but the front looks awful.

Hi all! I am new to everything sewing... so you can bet that I have watched every tutorial out there that I can find. However, I cannot figure out why my machine sews 2 full stitches before my skipping many, many stitches. I have a Rex607z (shh! I am poor). I have been trying to learn for its equivalent machines like barraccuda 200z amd sailrite LSW. I have rethreaded, changed the needle (135x15 tri and upholstery thread...should be #69 but it does not say clearly), re-done bobbin, changed needle bar height, checked for burrs and bent things, and re-oiled everything. The kicker, the sewing machine will sew through jersey knit fabric (1 layer) with no skipped stitches. When I sew deer hide with a straightline, the ol' Rex makes two stitches then skips everything after. If it is in zigazag, it will only pick up the bobbin thread in a straight line..not in zigzag. Anyways, if anyone has any auggestions at all about what is going on and how to fix it, please let me know! Thank you all!

Hi All, I am new to the forum so if this is in the wrong place - please feel free to move my topic or even shut it down. I work at a store and we have a Singer 29K06 machine and we have always used it to sew patches onto jacket, no leather repair. All of our tailors are only familiar with how to run the machine but not troubleshoot. We had a tech out because the machine started skipping stiches but he was not familiar with parts for the machine because its so old. He mentioned that it had something to do with the timing. Does this issue sound familiar to anyone? Or does anyone have any resources that I could take a gander at to try and troublehsoot myself? Thank you for your help! Erin

I have a Chandler 406RB that mostly works great, but I'm having some trouble with thickness changes while sewing. I make wallets, and when I'm sewing from the thinner section along the top to slightly thicker to down the edge where the pocket assembly starts, often I get this long loose stitch on the bottom where the thickness changes. Sometimes it's literally a loop a half inch or more long. Everything else looks good though, tension-wise, so I'm not sure what to do about it. Any suggestions for keeping this from happening?

Hi all, I'm new to this forum and just got a Cobra 4. What a machine. I picked it up from the shop last week and have been using it a few days. I actually initially went on this forum to fix a previous problem so thank you very much for the help already Anyways here's the problem and some questions: https://www.youtube....player_embedded I began having the thread jam yesterday while working on a messenger. I would get maybe 10 stitches into the thing and the thread would begin to twist a bit and kink and then a couple stitches later it would skip a stitch. I'd stop and fix it and then go on. The third time though it really jammed and I had to remove the shuttle hook and bobbin. I took out the jammed thread and put it all back together and now the problem is that the top thread won't hook the bobbin thread to take it up and out. I took a video of the thing and will post a link. After maybe 20 tries it finally hooked it but when I began stitching, the top thread wouldnt hook the bobbin thread and it only punched holes. So if you guys could help me out with this problem of it not picking up the bobbin thread and whatever is causing the thing to not stitch properly (the same problem I assume) I would greatly appreciate it. Couldnt get a word back from the Leather Machine today and ive got some projects I'd really love to be working on right now. Thanks so much.

Hi all! Second post here. I recently ordered a 6-7oz tooling shoulder from Tandy Leather Factory. The quality is fine, not amazing, but fine for what I'm doing with it. However, I wanted to see how some black dye would look on it so I cut some scrap off of it and tried to dye it (Gloves, wool dauber) and I found that the dye mostly just pooled on the surface of the grain and barely absorbed in. I could get it fairly well in after MANY coats, but I'm wondering why this is happening? It DOES look quite smooth, but is that it? I tried it out with an old round I had and the scrap side by side and the round absorbed the dye straight away but the newer shoulder just had dye sitting on top... Any advice? Will I need to sand it down or something? Concerned, R.