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‘Hi all, Im new to this blog and leather sewing in general, bought my first industrial sewing machine few month ago Seiko STH-8BLD-3 very pleased with it, then about month ago bought Durkopp 541 post bed and now looking for cylinder bed machine, I don't do heavy leather its mostly for upholstery and small items but I find my self more relaxed while sewing stuff, I enjoy finding new information and this blog coming up often on google searches for what ever I’m looking for to solve. Thank you all for your input and problem solving guides, I am hoping to also share my experience with you all and hope that someone might learn something from my mistakes.

This machine just popped up near by. Can anyone help me identify the model?

Good day. I need your help and advice on choosing a sewing machine for sewing leather. I have experience with sewing textiles, but as far as working with leather is concerned, I'm just a rookie. I want to start sewing car seats and upholstery. Unfortunately, I have no familiars, who would be engaged in sewing such products. I'm sure it should be a flatbed machine. But I have doubts about what kind of the feed mechanism to choose - top & bottom or compound feed. I have heard and read different opinions on this matter. What are the features of the choice? My purchase budget - around $ 1200. Brands represented in my country - Juki, Typical, Durkopp-Adler, Golden Wheel, Hightex, Zoje. One seller also advised me model Typical GC 20606-1. Do you think this will be a good choice? I don't want to be wrong, because I won't have another try. Thank you in advance.

Well its time to expand into new disciplines. I have restored and rebuilt a 100+ year old one horse carriage except for the upholstery, dashboard and trunk. Just ordered a couple of 3 oz hides and now need a machine to sew with. As far as I know there are no industrial machine dealers around here in Idaho so I need a machine that would easily serviced if needed possibly by a residential machine technician (if that is even an issue). Anyway I have pretty much decided to buy new unless something pops up regionally. As to what else I plan to do with it, I never know. But I do have lots of ideas. Belts, sheaths, boat cover repairs, furniture cushions, wallets, ect. I would hold the line at holsters and heavy leather as initially the type of machine necessary would not be ideal for my current project based on discussions in this forum. From reading forums I would probably like an 18" arm Servo Motor Gear reduction Looking for brand and model recommendations. In addition what additional supplies and attachments should I be purchase for/with the machine (feet, needles, thread size)? No specific budget but I guess I will be spending 1 - 2 k.

I have some leftover books for sale. Leathercraft – Lacing and Saddle stitching – Book #3. $5.00 + shipping Creating Nature Designs - Free + shipping How to Carve Leather – A. Stohlman (large format) $5.00 + shipping Design Artistry – F.O. Baird (Large format) $20.00 + shipping The Stohlman Encyclopdia of Saddlemaking – Stohlman (all 3 books – 1 new in wrapper, 2 open) $150.00 + shipping Upholstery Techniques, 2nd – W. Lloyd Gheen $5.00 + Shipping If you want any book(s), I will ship the book to you with the cost of the book and the shipping. I figured after the last time, everyone wants “media rate” and so I wont know the cost until its packed and weighed at the USPS. I will contact you with my name/address and total cost and you can send a personal check or money order. THIS IS FIRST COME, FIRST SERVE. Sorry. Shipping from USA only – unless you want to pay a lot more to ship outside of USA. Last comment. My work hours are funky, so I may not be able to ship daily. Thank you

I finally finished the other one I had mentioned and covered a Cardigan style handle as well. I'll start with the cardigan. I started this handle before I bought the foam so the foam was an afterthought. The handle was already finished with a 1/8" recess intended for just leather and no foam. I tried splitting the foam down to 1/8" on the band saw with mixed results. The way I did it was dangerous and scary with my fingers way too close to the blade. NOT a smart thing to do. If I try anything like that again I'll do things differently. For being an afterthought it's not terrible but the foam is a little lumpy in places and I still had trouble getting a decent fit at the edges. I really need to re-think my process for this style. Baseball stitched on the bottom but I forgot to take a picture. Here's the other Fritz I mentioned. Overall I'm pretty happy with it. I'm getting my sizes worked out. This one is normal sized. I also think I have a pretty decent process for this style now. I glued the end caps on after they were shaped and finished and the leather was installed. I would have done the same for the collar but had to correct another mistake and couldn't on this one. Still, it did remove most of the risk of damaging the leather. Still struggling with the bottom seam. It's not quite centered and is a little wobbly. I'm not really happy with the different brand of finish I'm using right now. I'll switch back to Minwax Tung Oil for the wood when this can is gone. It seems to dry harder.

I just finished this prototype of a padded handle. The padding is 1/4" closed cell cross linked polyethylene that was recommended by the supplier. I like it. The leather is brown kidskin from Springfield. The woods used are white oak and holly on the collar and end caps with a maple core on the handle and an alder shank. Overall I'm pretty happy for a first attempt. The padding made it easier to get a decent fit on the leather. There are a few small errors. The seams on the foam telegraphed through the leather a bit. More care was needed fitting the foam (fixed on the current one I'm making). I managed to put a small scratch in the leather at the top front of the handle. I'm working on changing the order of work to eliminate that possibility in the future. The handle ended up about 1/4" taller and wider than I intended. It doesn't sound like a lot but the handle is huge. I have large hands (short but wide) and this handle is big for me. My seams are still a bit wobbly but they are slowly improving. Critiques and advice are always appreciated.

Hey there folks, My parents have asked me to help them sell their Juki LU-1508 to help pay for medical expenses. I believe we've had this machine since early-to-mid 2000's. My folks re-upholstered our boat with it, I re-upholstered my dad's bench-seat in his toyota pickup for my senior project, and other than that it's not seen a ton of use---I'd say under 150 hrs, and most of that very light use. I don't know a ton about the machine, but it is in excellent working order and was recently serviced. There is a crack in the plastic belt-drive cover, but other than that it is in excellent cosmetic shape. My mom mentioned that they paid extra for the variable speed and to make sure that feature is noted. This machine is located in Lake Tahoe, California. My dad is currently in no shape from chemo-therapy to deal shipping this item, so it is local pickup for now. BUT: if there is no local interest, I will likely transport it down to Pasadena, CA where I can either sell it there or arrange for shipping myself. Asking $1600 PM me for more high-res photos Thanks!

So I managed to get my hands on some couch leather/upholstery leather. It's real and stuff , tested it and stuff and yep , it passed. It's beautiful stuff , I'll be putting pictures up later I was wondering if I could make wallets and stuff outta this , I'm not sure about the edges , it's kinda flimsy (moves around a lot when I try to slick it) But my real question is , can I actually burnish this or would it just waste my time ?

Hi sewing machine experts... This is my first post as a new member - I hope I am posting in the right place... I make leather baby shoes (really slippers - see picture attached) and am looking to buy my first substantial sewing machine so I can amp up production. I have been using an old Kenmore 148.156 that I purchased at GoodWill, which is obviously NOT ideal and slow going - I am surprised it hasn't broken yet. The leather I am using is very soft, 3-5 oz but I am sometimes sewing through 3 layers so I need a fair amount to clearance. After reading through Wizcrafts topic on, "The Type Of Sewing Machine You Need To Sew Leather", it looks like what I may want is something like a Consew 206RB walking foot machine, or something similar. Does that sounds right? I found this option on Ebay, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Consew-206RB-5-Walking-Foot-Leather-Sewing-Machine-/182292952645?hash=item2a7181b645:g:DjAAAOSwmfhX6u92, which looks pretty decent to me (not sure about the 1/2hp clutch motor), but I really don't feel sufficiently confident in my knowledge as of yet to make a purchase, so was hoping for some advice from you experts! He also mentions that you want to buy a Japan made machine but Im not sure how to discern where this was manufactured. Any help is greatly appreciated!

We purchased this Consew Double Needle Post Machine recently. It was purchased brand new from the manufacturer. We thought it would work for our business, but instead it has sat unused in our art studio. We tried using it once or twice, but discovered that it is most definitely the wrong machine for our needs. It is technically in Like NEW condition, with no signs of wear. We've proactively serviced it to ensure that it is ready for the new owner. This machine would be better suited for a saddle maker or a company specializing in leather/upholstery fabric furniture, please see Full Specs below. This machine comes with the table and a servo motor. We are selling it for a few thousand less than what we paid in hopes it will sell quickly. Willing to accept reasonable offers. We are asking $3800 for this machine, actually selling it for a few thousand dollars less than what we paid in hopes it will sell quickly. Willing to accept reasonable offers only. We are unable to ship, due to its weight and size. Instead we are willing to deliver it anywhere within California for an additional $200. California buyers only. Local pick up is also acceptable. This machine is currently listed on EBAY, but I can pull auction if someone on this forum is interested. FULL SPECIFICATIONS: Model # 369RB-2 Double Needle, 1/4" Gauge- 135x17 Walking Foot Speed, Max (S.P.M)- 2200 Clearance Under Pressure Foot- 11/32" (8.5mm) Stitch Length- 5 s.p.i (5mm) Bed Size- 7"x20 3/8" (177mm x 518mm) APPLICATIONS: For sewing medium to medium heavy-weight fabrics. Leather, canvas, vinyl, synthetics, and various coated and laminated materials Designed for sewing operations which require decorative or functional angular stitching such as collars, pockets, shoe uppers, auto, boat and furniture upholstery, slacks, shirts, etc... Designed for stitching such products as overalls, raincoats, luggage, travelware accessories, bags, umbrella's, awnings, covers, tarpaulins, tents, wearing apparel, outdoor clothing, underwear, etc. General/parallel two-needle stitching with split bar for making even angle turns. Suitable for stitching uneven, hollow, tubular and curved articles FEATURES: Compound feed, walking foot mechanism assures perfect feeding of sewing material Large hooks and bobbin cases with their own thread take-up mechanism assure uniform and perfect stitching with minimum bobbin changes Easy operation of disengage able right and left needle bars by use of finger-touch lever Centra-Lube, semi-automatic lubrication system Oil fed take-up Stitches per minute 2200 Reverse Stitching Various gauge sets available Safety clutch protects the hooks from being damaged

Hey Everyone! Im new here but have done some minor upholstery in my day! MINOR! anyway, I have NECCI sewing machine (forgot model but will update soon) and I found an Eames Style 50s lounge chair in the dumpster! all in one piece! leather was shot.. wood was ok but veneer was peeling... no problem wood is my strong point.. anyway.. I want to replace the leather and padding but Im a little unknowledgeable here... where would I start? I now I need nylon thread... and some needles.. any idea what size? the chairs look so beautiful but seem so easy to build! here is a before pic and what it will be afterwards .. and then the leather I have and veneer Ill be applying to the back... and then example of how chair will look finished except little different colors ... I just need to start I guess lol mostly its setting up machine ... Ive sewn cloth a decent amount and even made some seat stretchers for my recumbent bicycle frame I built .Pifertex is very hard to sew strait.. I don't think it really is made to sew strait as the needle can't really pierce it so it moves around in the voids of that mesh... anyway.. leather is new to me somewhat... any pointers?

Nakajima 280L Walking Foot Industrial Sewing Machine Up to 2/3" foot lift Sews forward and reverse Needle is 135 x 17 Large bobbin (side loading type M paper bobbin optional) Made in Japan Includes welting and cording/zipper foot Machine is in fine working order. You are buying the Head, Stand and Motor. I recently found a Nakajima 280L walking foot sewing machine in a sewing machine repair shop. It had been there for years and they were eager to sell it. It has been tuned up by their industrial sewing machine mechanic and runs beautifully. This is the same model of machine that I use to do most of my sewing for garments, upholstery, and lighter weight hard goods. The machine comes complete with: Power table with bobbin winder and accessory drawer. Clutch Motor 4 M sized Bobbins Thread Stand One packet of 135x17 needles size 125 Bobbin winder Knee lifter Gooseneck worklight Operating Manual in PDF format Cone of thread pictured with machine is not included, it was there simply to show the quality of stitching. If you want, I can add the foot lever reverse feature that I made for my own Nakajima 280L. it is a second pedal next to the motor pedal. you step on both together and it engages reverse before engaging the motor. I will have to price out the additional pedal, webbing and spings needed to add this feature before I can quote you a price though. Very handy feature that allows you to keep both hands on your work, or onew hand on the work and one on the wheel while you put the machine into reverse. Pick up is available in Wildomar, CA for free, or I can deliver it in the Inland Epire, Los Angeles, Orange County, San Diego County, or Ventura County areas for a fee depending upon how far. Shipping can be done via FedEx Ground. I can ship just the head to save you money, or I can disassemble the table and remove the motor and ship it all in separate boxes. Cost of shipping will be determined by what options you choose and delivery location. I can also palletize it for pick up by a freight company if you prefer. Asking price is $850. Reasonable offers considered. The machine pictured is actually my current machine. I will sell you either one you prefer. My current machine is on an old singer "H" leg stand with a Singer clutch motor, the newer one is on a much newer "L" leg stand with a newer clutch motor. Both tables have accessory drawers and bobbinwinders. The newer machine head looks almost identical, with a bit less of the powder coating worn off on the front of the machine head. I'm just waiting on pics of the newer machine to arrive.

Hi, everybody! Long-time listener, first-time caller here. And I could really use some help! I mostly sew bags and small accessories with new leather (and I really don't do any dying except for edges, etc.), so I'm pretty far out of my league on this one. I have a dog with major anxiety, and so I procrastinate cutting his nails for way too long. As a result, he has done some major damage to about 1/3 of a big, hunter green leather sectional couch. What would you all recommend I do to try to revitalize the couch? It has scratches all over it (as you probably guessed), so the scratched parts appear dry, kind of flaky (but not with actual flakes I guess), and lighter in color than the rest. Should I try to apply a light coat of hunter green dye on it? Some kind of finisher? Also, should I do whatever you recommend to the whole couch or just the sections that are damaged? I would be so grateful for any help! THANKS! Elizabeth

Artisan 797 AB Walking Foot (Alternating Feed) Lockstitch Sewing Machine Artisan 797 AB Walking Foot (Alternating Feed) Lockstitch Sewing Machine with a Big "M" size Bobbin and Rotating Hook, New Style Presser Foot "Stepper" mechanism to stitch over obstacles and heavy seams. Hand presser Foot Lifting Lever located on front of machine, Dial operated stitch length regulator, Reverse feed lever with fully automatic Lubrication and sews up to 3/8" thickness with thread from size 33 up to size 138. The Complete sewing machine includes the Motor Stand Drive Unit with adjustable "T" style steel legs, an 27" gooseneck lamp, drawer and accessories. Recommended SCHMETZ brand Needle systems: 135 x 17 size 14 to 24. for fabrics and 135x16 size 14 to 24 for leathers The machine is used, but in fantastic working condition, ready to go! Asking $750 or best offer. Pick up is available in Wildomar, CA for free, or I can deliver it in the Inland Epire, Los Angeles, Orange County, San Diego County, or Ventura County areas for a fee depending upon how far. Shipping can be done via FedEx Ground I can ship just the head to save you money, or I can disassemble the table and remove the motor and ship it all in separate boxes. Cost of shipping will be determined by what options you choose and delivery location. I can also palletize it for pick up by a freight company if you prefer.