Strong Belt Loop Attachment?

[fredk]

9 minutes ago, MtlBiker said:

. . .

But could you please clarify for me which direction the ends of the loop would go once inserted in slots.  My understanding is that they remain in the same direction as the loop itself and aren't bent back towards the middle. . . .

Same direction as the rest of the strap,  

A quick sketch; 

That how I do them

However, sewing is by far better, and I'll stick my neck out and say, saddle stitching is the best.

When I was in that medieval thingy I had plenty of sewn strap loops to repair. They'd been sewn on with a sewing machine and when the thread broke all the stitching came away. We once had a very dangerous incident when one of the guys was in the middle of a sword fight demo and the stitching on the belt loop of his dagger sheath gave way, allowing it to fall to his feet, tripping him up just as his opponent was swinging a sword at him. Fortunately the opponent was able to to pull and redirect the blow. The belt loop had been sewn on with a sewing machine. We then went through all the equipment and I re-stitched everything that had been machine sewn

[battlemunky]

I saw a video on YT a few years ago that showed pull tests between double capped /ez rivets, bit/burr rivets, and stitching. Done correctly, bit/burr is super strong, stitching is too, and I only use double cap and/or ez rivets for decoration because they can pull apart surprisingly easy. I'll try to find the video and post it if I do.

[MtlBiker]

33 minutes ago, fredk said:

Same direction as the rest of the strap,  

A quick sketch; 

That how I do them

However, sewing is by far better, and I'll stick my neck out and say, saddle stitching is the best.

When I was in that medieval thingy I had plenty of sewn strap loops to repair. They'd been sewn on with a sewing machine and when the thread broke all the stitching came away. We once had a very dangerous incident when one of the guys was in the middle of a sword fight demo and the stitching on the belt loop of his dagger sheath gave way, allowing it to fall to his feet, tripping him up just as his opponent was swinging a sword at him. Fortunately the opponent was able to to pull and redirect the blow. The belt loop had been sewn on with a sewing machine. We then went through all the equipment and I re-stitched everything that had been machine sewn

Thanks (again) very much, Fred!  Your prior post with the photos clarified what you were doing with the loop and slots, and your drawing now confirmed it all.

My intention with these pouches is certainly to hand stitch everything, saddle stitching.  I save my machine stitching for bags and purses.  As I said, this little belt pouch is only for me, one, because I can use it, and two, as something to practice my leather working with.  I need practice with dyeing, protecting, molding, cutting and certainly hand stitching.  This is a perfect little project for all of that.

21 minutes ago, battlemunky said:

I saw a video on YT a few years ago that showed pull tests between double capped /ez rivets, bit/burr rivets, and stitching. Done correctly, bit/burr is super strong, stitching is too, and I only use double cap and/or ez rivets for decoration because they can pull apart surprisingly easy. I'll try to find the video and post it if I do.

Thank you.  I hadn't heard of "bit/burr" rivets.  But in any case, my next attempt with this pouch will use saddle stitching on the belt loop.  (And the rest of the pouch.)

 

[Hardrada]

Use copper/brass rivets. The leather will tear before those come apart.

I too would also stitch the loop and reinforce with a rivet on each end. Place the flat end of the rivet inside so that it doesn't scratch the contents—better yet, line the pouch.

Edited May 27, 2022 by Hardrada

[RockyAussie]

14 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

This idea doesn't sit well with me.  (Of course, not having actually tried it.)  If I understand correctly, you then end up having to stitch through 3 layers along the edge rather than just two, plus you seem to have the top edge of that extra piece kinda open and just sitting there.  Looks wise I don't care for that too much.  Maybe I should just give it a try though.

The top and bottom have to be open if the wearer prefers to wear it in line with the belt horizontally. They have to be open just enough for a belt to be pushed through. If worn vertically in the direction you have your strap attached then the 2 slits allow you to feed the belt through that way. In wear this method will not hang out as much as the folded over strap does at the top as in how you have yours at present. Yes it means 3 layers to be stitched and I would have thought that would not be a problem with your machine but as you say maybe you should just give it a go. Another view in case it helps - Ignore the crappy stitching, one of my staff asked me to make it up 1/2hour before his finish time and I did not even have a mould to start with.

 

 

[Spyros]

Maybe make a 2mm hole at the start and end of those slits, takes 5 seconds and makes them a lot harder to tear. 

[Handstitched]

18 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

I'm not quite sure what you mean.  And when you wear the pouch, the belt loop doesn't even show. 

When I cut my belt loops,  ( quite often belt off-cuts or scraps)  I cut them using an ' English point strap end cutter' on both ends, instead of cut straight. The loop is attached  the same as what you have done  in the pic, but stitched  in the ' V' , and then stitched  across, the same as what @tsunkasapa  has done on his loop. And, depending on the item,  a sheath for example , the loop is a one piece . 

Also, for pouches such as leatherman type cases etc. I try not to attach the loop too low , otherwise the top of the  case will sit too high for the customer*. Hope that made sense ?   

(*Some customers, and  stockmen,  like the loop length ways, horizontal  )

 

HS

Edited May 28, 2022 by Handstitched

[Spyros]

15 hours ago, battlemunky said:

I saw a video on YT a few years ago that showed pull tests between double capped /ez rivets, bit/burr rivets, and stitching. Done correctly, bit/burr is super strong, stitching is too, and I only use double cap and/or ez rivets for decoration because they can pull apart surprisingly easy. I'll try to find the video and post it if I do.

Both thread and metal are stronger than the leather, and both need to be installed properly.  A double cap rivet is easy to get it wrong, or get the wrong size.  If you get it right you can put the leather on a vice and pull it with pliers, the rivet is not coming off, and if you keep trying the leather will tear.  As anyone who's ever tried to remove a rivet knows, it can only be removed with a drill.

[Bert03241]

On 5/26/2022 at 8:50 PM, Brokenolmarine said:

I have box stitched all mine, but Glue them first with Contact Cement.  None have given up the ghost yet.  Not that I have made that many.  However, my daughter has worn one knife sheath for nearly three years, still going strong.

I also took a tip from a British leather worker whose holster and sheath videos I watched a lot of... after stitching the loop, I turn the leather over and put a thin layer of cement over the stitches inside the holster or sheath.  Won't be seen ever again, but protects the stitches from whatever slides over them, and protects what is sliding over them.

 

I always glue first, Great tip on glue over stitches , Thanks for that one. Semper Fi Brother

[Bert03241]

14 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

The top and bottom have to be open if the wearer prefers to wear it in line with the belt horizontally. They have to be open just enough for a belt to be pushed through. If worn vertically in the direction you have your strap attached then the 2 slits allow you to feed the belt through that way. In wear this method will not hang out as much as the folded over strap does at the top as in how you have yours at present. Yes it means 3 layers to be stitched and I would have thought that would not be a problem with your machine but as you say maybe you should just give it a go. Another view in case it helps - Ignore the crappy stitching, one of my staff asked me to make it up 1/2hour before his finish time and I did not even have a mould to start with.

 

 

Thats crazy , a lot of extra work, just cut the slots in the back of the sheath. Been doing it this way for years never had a complaint.

12 hours ago, Spyros said:

Maybe make a 2mm hole at the start and end of those slits, takes 5 seconds and makes them a lot harder to tear.