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Ask for a complete new bobbin assembly rather than just the hook as you never know what strain was put on the rest of the assembly

Mi omputer is ot ood at speeling , it's not me

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On 9/17/2022 at 2:10 PM, MikeRock said:

Did the needle survive?

Yes the needle survived. 

 

14 hours ago, chrisash said:

Ask for a complete new bobbin assembly rather than just the hook as you never know what strain was put on the rest of the assembly

Yes, I will do that. 

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Posted

I am still waiting to hear from Techsew support on this. It is frustrating to have such a huge failure of the machine and no resolution from TechSew customer support. I've called and emailed them, and now I've lost another day of sewing time. I've heard such great things about TechSew support, but I have not experienced it yet. I'm hoping they can restore my faith in the brand!  @Techsew Ron

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Posted

I spoke with one of our dealers and he told me that the shuttle driver is usually pinned to the end of the lower shaft. If that's the case, the entire lower shaft may have to be pulled out to remove the remnants of the driver and reinstall a new one (and its pin). All the components inside the arm will have to be stripped off the shaft as it is pulled out and secured in the proper order.The machine will have to re-timed after the new parts and bottom shaft are installed. This will be a thankless job. The best outcome would be if the shaft only has to be pulled out far enough to drive out the old pin, install a new driver and drive in the pin.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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Posted
On 9/19/2022 at 11:34 PM, Wizcrafts said:

I spoke with one of our dealers and he told me that the shuttle driver is usually pinned to the end of the lower shaft. If that's the case, the entire lower shaft may have to be pulled out to remove the remnants of the driver and reinstall a new one (and its pin). All the components inside the arm will have to be stripped off the shaft as it is pulled out and secured in the proper order.The machine will have to re-timed after the new parts and bottom shaft are installed. This will be a thankless job. The best outcome would be if the shaft only has to be pulled out far enough to drive out the old pin, install a new driver and drive in the pin.

This is concerning to me, as I'm not mechanically inclined.  TechSew is shipping me a shuttle driver shaft assembly. They sent me links to videos on how to replace it:

Removing shuttle driver shaft assembly on the Techsew 5100 or 4100: https://youtu.be/sw63T_03mVA

Installing shuttle driver shaft assembly on the Techsew 5100 and 4100: https://youtu.be/6GYa5apW7Sc

 

They offered to have one of their technicians guide me over Facetime through it, so we will see how it goes. Not excited.

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Posted
7 hours ago, SewMuchToLearn said:

They offered to have one of their technicians guide me over Facetime through it, so we will see how it goes. Not excited.

NO !!!!  I'll be asking for a replacement machine . I can repair a few simple things on my machine, but I'm not THAT technically minded either .  What is the warranty  T & C's on the machine? 

On 9/17/2022 at 11:20 AM, Northmount said:

From my limited knowledge of metallurgy, this is brittle fracture.

I know  our laws are different, but under ' Australian Consumer Law' that would be considered a ' catastrophic failure'. It's up to the company to deal with this issue,  not  the customer.

Its their machine, their name, and their reputation. 

HS

 

' I have a very gweat friend in Wome called Biggus Dickus,

He has a wife you know, do you know whats she's called? Incontinentia.......Incontinentia Buttocks '  :rofl:

Posted
11 hours ago, SewMuchToLearn said:

Removing shuttle driver shaft assembly on the Techsew 5100 or 4100:

You may find using a "T" style angle key like shown in the video may twist depending on how tight the bolt was originally installed. You may want to consider using a 6mm angle key socket and racket with a short extension to eliminate possible twisting / striping problems.

kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

Posted
1 hour ago, kgg said:

You may find using a "T" style angle key like shown in the video may twist depending on how tight the bolt was originally installed. You may want to consider using a 6mm angle key socket and racket with a short extension to eliminate possible twisting / striping problems.

kgg

Good points,but if he uses a rachet w/a extension he better hold it alittle sideways(instead of going straight in) so it doesn't strip it out as these are real tight.

Bob Kovar
Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd.
3631 Marine Rd
Toledo,Ohio 43609
1-866-362-7397

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Posted
8 minutes ago, CowboyBob said:

but if he uses a rachet w/a extension he better hold it alittle sideways(instead of going straight in) so it doesn't strip it out as these are real tight.

Excellent point. The reason I  mentioned using a socket style is that some of the "T" style wrenches are shall we say less then and can twist like a cork screw leading too both the wrench tip and bolt stripping out. Guess how I know.

kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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