Chisel Size for Pocket Projects?

[Showe33]

Im learning about stitching chisels (which is a broad and overwhelming topic for a newbie), and trying to figure out what I need for my style of projects.

I’d like to make small pouch-style projects for things like leatherman or Gerber multitools, as well as for various types of tool rolls.

I’ve seen a number of videos and it looks like some people are using wider stitch sizes, about 3-4mm (shown below). I’m not making watch bands, so I don’t need tight groupings; I don’t want reduce the integrity of the leather.

Based on what I’ve seen and read, I’m thinking of buying a #18 needle, a set of 3 or 4mm flat or diamond chisels, and using 6mm thread for these types of projects. If I’m way off base with some of this, please let me know

[fredk]

I like to use these sewing hole pliers. The teeth are about 2mm wide with about 2.5mm between them. They can punch through thin leathers, up to about 4.5 mm thick. They are available with 4 teeth or 2 teeth

I use 0.8 or 1mm thread  with, afair a 17g needle

[zuludog]

Welcome to the Forum, and welcome to the fun!

Yes, choosing stitching chisels, thread, and needles is confusing, and you can easily be overwhelmed & lost. I have made similar cases/pouches for my stitching chisels and small knives, though not for a multitool, but the techniques would be the same. Here are a few comments

I would use 2mm thick leather and 0,6mm synthetic thread

The only #18 needles I've seen on the Net are Tapestry Hand Sewing Needles, and they look too big for leatherwork. I use John James Saddler's Harness Needles, item code L3912 size 002 - but make sure you get size 002 and not 2/0 which are too big. I assume you are in the USA; JJ needles and suitable thread are sold by Rocky Mountains Leather Supply, but perhaps other Members will have their suggestions

Stitching chisels with 3 to 4 mm spacing is about right. French or European chisels have prongs with flat sides and flat tips; Japanese or diamond chisels have prongs with a diamond cross section and pointed tips. Diamond chisels are slightly easier to place and make a diamond shaped hole. French chisels make a hole that is a slit and need a bit more care about placing, and some people think they give a neater stitch, though there's not much in it. Both types of hole don't actually remove any material so they will close up after stitching.

The cases for chisels will probably be simple & flat. For bulkier items like small knives and multitools you'd probably need to look at wet forming or a pouch with sides or a gusset, like a belt pouch. As you've probably realised there are several videos about this, Search YT for Making a Belt / Multitool Pouch  but start with something simple!   

Remember you shouldn't hit stitching chisels with a steel hammer, you will need a soft mallet, such as wood, hide, or nylon. Neither should you hit down on your cutting mat; I use a plastic kitchen chopping board or an old magazine. 

In the Sewing Leather section of this Forum there is a Thread(!) about stitching chisels

Edited October 24, 2022 by zuludog

[Tugadude]

Zuludog gave some great recommendations.  Here is the topic thread he mentioned.  Nigel Armitage's info pertaining to specific chisels and their use, along with the recommended needle and thread size is extremely valuable.  I suggest you check it out.  Very educational in my opinion.

Many leatherworkers like Ritza 25, also known as "Tiger Thread" due to the tiger on the packaging.  I think the 0.6 and the 0.8 are particularly suitable for the type of work you are wanting to do.  

Here also is the list of reviews from Nigel Armitage.  If you check out his current videos he shows many of the chisels in action.  You can also sometimes catch the "wall of chisels" in his workshop where they are on display.  Quite the collection!

This might not be totally up to date, but you can check by going to his website.

file:///C:/Users/Peter%20Jaegers/Downloads/Armitage%20Stitching%20Iron%20Reviews.pdf

 

Good luck!

 

[zuludog]

I've just remembered -- Search YT for 'Nigel Armitage pouches'. He shows several types, from simple 2 piece front & back to more complex designs

Oh, and most people try a few different combinations of stitching chisels/needles/thread when they start, before they settle on what suits them; like I said, it's all part of the fun!

Even though chisels should cover most of what you do, now & again you might need an awl. Search t'Net and YouTube for choosing & using a saddler's or diamond awl, but that's another topic.

Edited October 24, 2022 by zuludog

[Tugadude]

For the price, I have found these to be pretty effective.  For small wallets, the 3mm would be good.  EDIT:  No need to buy the one-prong iron in my opinion.  But if you buy the whole set, not a big deal, still less than $10 bucks per.

https://www.springfieldleather.com/Craftmaster-3mm-Diamond-Point-Stitching-Chisel?quantity=1&other-options=1

Edited October 24, 2022 by Tugadude

[sbrownn]

3 hours ago, Tugadude said:

Many leatherworkers like Ritza 25, also known as "Tiger Thread" due to the tiger on the packaging.  I think the 0.6 and the 0.8 are particularly suitable for the type of work you are wanting to do.  

+1 on the Tiger Thread.  That is the only thread I use now including in my sewing machine.

[Northmount]

17 hours ago, zuludog said:

I assume you are in the USA

IP address is for Toronto, Ontario Canada.

@Showe33  You may add your location to your profile so you get responses relative to your location when location is an important part of the equation.

 

[Klara]

On 10/24/2022 at 7:49 AM, zuludog said:

French or European chisels have prongs with flat sides and flat tips; Japanese or diamond chisels have prongs with a diamond cross section and pointed tips.

More important: French pricking irons (not chisels) are meant for marking stitches and then using an awl to make the hole (unless you are working with very thin leather, <1.5 mm). If you want to work without awl, get diamond chisels. You can use them for punching through the leather, or for just marking your stitches, depending on how hard you hit them.

[Heartless]

On 10/24/2022 at 10:55 AM, Tugadude said:

No need to buy the one-prong iron in my opinion.

actually, there are times when a single point chisel is useful

say you are going around a zipper cut out - you get close to finishing and realize that the spacing is slightly off to use the 2 point for that last hole... use the single point to center the last hole and minimize the visual impact of that one being slightly different than the rest.

If i were going to skip one when buying individually, it would be the 4 point...  6 point for long straight runs, 2 point for working around curves, and the single point for times like described above. I have a full set as shown above and rarely use the 4 point