leather dyeing without ugly patches

[Mikeonbicycle]

Hi all,I am Mike from downunder,I have been trying numerous dyes and methods to avoid ugly blotches and patches when dyeing veg_tan leather,I tried mineral based dyes and did not like the smell of those ones or the way they dry out the leather,then I tryed a few water based dyes and found some of those rub off too easy,but now i have managed to find a local made oil based dye that is actually water based and its very good,So far I have learnt that most dyes straight out of bottle are just too concentrated and that does make the patchiness much worst,I thin out my water based oil dyes with water and put the dye on with an old flannel sheet and dampen the rag first,one light coat then rub off excess,you will never get everything perfect but you just learn to make things with a light patina,and its that patina that people like,cheers

[Dwight]

24 hours before you do your dye job . . . take a cheap pig hair bristle brush (I use one app 2 cm wide) . . . give the HAIR SIDE a light coat of neatsfoot oil.  

Put enough on that it turns really dark . . . but not enough to soak it . . . just one good light . . . smoothed out coat.  

If you are doing a 40 inch belt . . . it will start to lighten up on the beginning end . . . by the time you get to the other end . . . that is what you want.

Lay all belts and similar large objects on their edge or back to "dry".   Come back in 24 hours . . . and dye.

I use Feibings oil dye . . . and I use the dip dye method.  One quick . . . THOROUGH . . .  dip in the dye that has been EXACTLY diuted 50 / 50.  In other words . . . I used 4 oz of dye . . .  and then added 4 oz of thinner.  I do not change that ratio unless the customer demands it . . . and they will pay full price for the demanded dye.

I have found this will get rid of 90 to 95% of what I call "blotchy" places in a dye job.

May God bless,

Dwight

[fredk]

 I just wet my leather before dyeing. Using a sponge to wet it thoroughly but not absolutely soaking 

[Littlef]

One thing I was doing wrong when I first started leather work was being too conservative in applying dye.  I was putting it on way too light, but then I'd have to keep applying more and more trying to even out coverage.  By the time I got it even, I would have a very heavy coat of dye.     Now, I do thin out the dye with alcohol, but I also use shearling applicators when dyeing.  The wool holds a lot of dye.  I found that when using the wool applicators, it floods the dye over the leather much more evenly and eliminated a lot of the blotchiness I had in the beginning.  

Edited September 23 by Littlef

[DieselTech]

I dip dye with fiebings pro dye. I let my project sit in the dye for 3-5 minutes & get good results. 

Just make sure if you are dip dying to let your project dry on a perfectly level surface till dry. 

[MarshalWill]

I use oil dyes, mostly Fiebings or Lincoln. I add alcohol to get the shade I want. Before I apply the dye, either by dipping or wiping (heavy coats when wiping), I wet the leather with alcohol first. I never get blotchy finishes doing it this way.

[TonyV]

And if all the above methods don't work, remember that some leathers come with some sort of topcoat or even grease and dirt.  It wouldn't hurt to give it a gentle cleaning with saddle soap and or denatured alcohol before beginning the dye procedure.  Clean leather dyes better.

[AlZilla]

I struggled early on. Then I found that wetting the leather like when I'm stamping ended all my problems.

Also, an advocate for dip dyeing, but not the 3 to 5 minutes recommended above. Just long enough to get the desired color.

I did some larger pieces today and couldn't dip them. A wool dauber and applying the fiebings dye full strength worked fine. Wetted the leather first, of course. I applied the dye at a rate sort of like I was painting a wall - loaded the dauber and worked a section at a time.

"Dipping" doesn't mean you need 5  gallons of dye, by the way. A large shallow pan will do or a smaller container that you work the piece through work fine for me. Then return the dye to a container.

[dikman]

20 hours ago, Mikeonbicycle said:

i have managed to find a local made oil based dye that is actually water based

Hi Mike and welcome, I must admit the above statement has me puzzled, oil and water generally don't mix too well.