I’m doing dyeing wrong?

[Chris777]

I’m working on my first project, which is a simple bookmark.  I’m using 4/6 veg tan leather.  The issue is with the dyeing.  The first image (lighter color) was done using a wool dauber.  It’s uneven because I had to go over some areas that didn’t get into the stamping.  The darker one was an attempt at submersing in the dye and it looks horrible and worse, it’s really stiff.  Do you have any suggestions, I’m really disappointed.

 

 

[DieselTech]

How long has the bottom example been drying? If I dip using fiebings pro dye, it takes a good 12hours, sometimes more to fully dry out. 

I've had no luck using a dauber. I dip dye if I can. 

[DieselTech]

Also another thing I forgot to mention, sometimes it's the leather quality/brand that can have uneven dying/splotchiness. 

I had a really nice looking imported veg-tan that did that to me in 1 part of the side I bought. 

[JDFred]

Sometimes it takes over night for the dye to finish moving through the leather.  Oiling it after you dye it also helps the dye to even out , also let the oil sit over night before you judge it.  I use Angelus alcohol based dyes and apply with a wool dauber.  Do you apply the dye in lines or in random circles?  I’ve had better luck getting down into things and mor even coverage using circles.  Leather quality dose make a difference also.  I’m not to the point where I think I’m ready to buy good leather yet so I get some of those spot that don’t take dye real well it’s part of it.  Just keep after it and it will get better.

Edited February 22 by JDFred

[Chris777]

Thanks for the feedback. The darker one has been sitting for a week, the other one longer. It’s not a top quality leather. 

[Beehive]

Did you oil it before applying the dye? 

 

Like giving it a rub with neatsfoot. Letting it set over night until you don't see blotches of oil. To where it looks just like it did, before you started. Just a tiny bit darker? 

 

I find oiling the leather before dying evens out the dye. It's my standard practice when using alcohol based dye. Oil based already has the oil in it.

[BlackDragon]

 

Make sure your leather is completely dry after tooling.

My steps for dying.

1. Neatsfoot oil. You don't need a lot. It'll help distribute the dye evenly in the next step. Let sit for at least 12hr.

2. Apply dye, usually I use a sock or you can use a wool pad. Let it sit for min 12hrs. I avoid dabbers unless I can cover the piece in one or two swipes, like a bracelet or belt loop.

Before going on to the next step make sure your project is dry.

3. The leather will be stiff after dyeing so work it a little. Gently bending it around, this allows the pores to open up and makes it more supple.  It also lets your waxes or resolene get better penetration in the next step.

4. Apply either resolene or wax depending on the project or preference.

 

[AlZilla]

Early on, I found that wetting the leather before dyeing gave much better results. Then I also discovered that dipping the leather is usually far superior to daubers or cloths, etc. Dipping doesn't really take a ton of dye, just a shallow pool in a wide enough tray.

This is just what I've found success with. You may find differently. 

I've also been using mostly standard Fiebings dye. My next purchase will be the pro series. I've had a couple instances of surface cracking to reveal undyed leather not far from the surface.

Edited February 22 by AlZilla

[billybopp]

What I'm seeing looks like there may have been something on the leather that wasn't letting dye through.  I'd try deglaze/clean before dying.  

- Bill

 

[DoogMeister]

I use Feibing's Pro dyes, usually thinned with 91% alcohol, almost always applied with an airbrush.  Saddle soap to clean any hand oils, etc after tooling, and let dry overnight.  Apply Feibing's leather care, and let dry overnight again.  I've used Feibing's leather sheen, resolene, tan-kote, and occasionally neutral shoe polish as finishes.  Leather shene and neutral shoe polish seem to be my favorites.

I've seen some leather that didn't dye evenly.  I resorted to a wipe with 91% alcohol after the usual above treatment to get an even dye job.

[asoupley]

Changing to the Feibings Pro Dyes changed my results quite a bit. So did switching to a better quality leather. As far as using an airbrush,  I've had great results with normal Feibings dye as well as their pro dye through my airbrush. Never tried thinning it though... it's already plenty thin to be sprayed. 

The other thing I do is instead of using those crappy wool daubers is use square piece of a wool shearling. I cut about 1.5-2" square. Trim down the wool to about 1/2". That has helped me get a better result for dye as well. Seems like using the wool dauber would always give me streaks.  Just make sure to pull off any stray pieces of wool so that it doesn't stick to the finish. They work great for resolene or other top coats as well

[Northmount]

@Chris777 Moved this thread to  Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.

[dikman]

All is not lost, go over it with an antique paste, that should bring out the stamping and give it a nice used look.

[DoogMeister]

On 2/23/2025 at 7:39 AM, asoupley said:

Changing to the Feibings Pro Dyes changed my results quite a bit. So did switching to a better quality leather. As far as using an airbrush,  I've had great results with normal Feibings dye as well as their pro dye through my airbrush. Never tried thinning it though... it's already plenty thin to be sprayed. 

The other thing I do is instead of using those crappy wool daubers is use square piece of a wool shearling. I cut about 1.5-2" square. Trim down the wool to about 1/2". That has helped me get a better result for dye as well. Seems like using the wool dauber would always give me streaks.  Just make sure to pull off any stray pieces of wool so that it doesn't stick to the finish. They work great for resolene or other top coats as well

I don't thin the dye for the airbrush, but to lighten the effect.  You are correct, it is already thin enough to spray.  It takes more coats to develop a darker finish, giving me more time to decide what I want the item to look like.  One can always add another coat, but removing too much dye is another story. 

I like the fact that with the airbrush I can easily do multi-color finishes, fade the color to darker on the edges, and dye the tooling one color and the background another.

[Cumberland Highpower]

What color were you aiming for?

Use Feibing's oil dye (Pro dye nowadays).  Dip dye your part and lightly work any dye that didn't absorb after  10 seconds or so so it does absorb.

Some dyes such as med or dark brown require 2 dye events to get a consistent shade/color.

Use a quality leather!!  Herman Oak is the best for dye work.  Not only does it absorb dye evenly, it dries more quickly than imported leathers.

Don't use a daubler/foam brush unless you're just doing edges or something real small, same for an airbrush, why would you torture yourself with that? You'll run the risk of uneven penetration and streaks, plus it takes longer if you're making more than one item.

Make sure your dye is blended well and at a proper temperature.  Really cold dye will not give good results.