Members dikman Posted June 21, 2017 Author Members Report Posted June 21, 2017 Well, plan A didn't work! I found out the only way to buy any leather thicker than I already have is either some ridiculously expensive imported Italian stuff or something that has been made for boot soles - this has been heavily compressed to make it denser than normal veg and is already as stiff as a board! So, to plan B (which I didn't have until this point). I would have to line it, but my normal lining might be a bit stiff for this, so I bought a nice side of yearling, about 3 oz, beautiful stuff. Now to start experimenting with patterns. Quote
Contributing Member fredk Posted June 21, 2017 Contributing Member Report Posted June 21, 2017 A thought; use centre back or shoulder for the outside and belly for the lining. Belly will have plenty of 'give' in it, but will stiffen up a lot when it dries out after any wet moulding Quote
Members dikman Posted June 3, 2018 Author Members Report Posted June 3, 2018 I've resurrected this 'cos I'm still working on it!! In the intervening time I've bought a couple of Ruger Vaquero's, 5 1/2" barrels so I've decided to make Mexican loops for these. My pattern looks promising, but I've just realised that I've got about a 3" drop from the belt, which seems excessive for a loop style? I can shorten it a bit and still make it fairly easy to get the pouch through the loops. Question: should a Mexican Loop have minimal drop? I should add that I like having the holster hang a bit lower. Also, does this style work as a cross-draw? I don't think I've seen any photos used like this. Quote
Members LumpenDoodle2 Posted June 3, 2018 Members Report Posted June 3, 2018 I make a fair few of these as Cross draws for customers. I’ve been told by them that they work fine, but most of my customers are reenactment folk, so don’t know if they work in a real shooting situation. Quote
Members dikman Posted June 3, 2018 Author Members Report Posted June 3, 2018 Thanks LD2, guess I'm about to find out.... Quote
Members dikman Posted June 7, 2018 Author Members Report Posted June 7, 2018 I think I've finally got a pattern template that looks like it should work (well, it does with cardboard), but having drooled over Josh's stunning stamping I decided I have to do a serpentine pattern. After three attempts at making a stamp I have one that works ok, but (there's always a but, it seems) I'm finding it's particularly difficult to use. I've tried using cut lines as guides, and scribed lines, but it's not easy achieving a consistent appearance.It's made me appreciate even more Josh's superb stamping. At this stage I'm not about to try it on my holster so I'll come up with a pattern that is more forgiving i.e. if it doesn't quite line up perfectly it won't be too obvious! Quote
Members noobleather Posted June 7, 2018 Members Report Posted June 7, 2018 Have just drooled all over my keyboard looking at this thread,some great holsters! Quote
Members Josh Ashman Posted June 7, 2018 Members Report Posted June 7, 2018 I've had lots or practice at making poorly stamped/tooled gear. It seems that the more you do it the better you get. My stuff isn't great by any means, but it's better now than when I started. Not sure if it's helpful, but the way I do serpentine borders is to scribe my lines lightly, then cut them with a swivel knife, then run over them with whatever the beveler blades for a swivel knife handle are called. Then I do the "hourglass" shaped stamp that I use. I put one of the flat sides into the cut and beveled line and go to work stamping. I use the same side of the stamp all around the one side then do the other side. I used to layout spacing marks but anymore I just "eyeball" them in. When coming into a corner that has to "close out" I'll stop short several inches then work my way out of the corner and try to make any spacing adjustments over several stamps so I don't have one big gap or 1 space that is way too tight. Good luck! Quote
Members dikman Posted June 8, 2018 Author Members Report Posted June 8, 2018 Thanks Josh, I just tried using a beveller on the cut line and it helped by giving me an actual edge to use as a guide. Now to look for a cut-type beveller for the swivel knife. Any chance you can post a photo of your stamp? The one I made is half an hourglass, so I'm curious what you use. Quote
Members dikman Posted June 8, 2018 Author Members Report Posted June 8, 2018 No need for a photo, Josh I think I've figured out what your stamp looks like. Quote
Members Josh Ashman Posted June 11, 2018 Members Report Posted June 11, 2018 On 6/8/2018 at 2:44 AM, dikman said: No need for a photo, Josh I think I've figured out what your stamp looks like. Very good, sorry for the slow reply! I was goofing at at the lake All the best! Quote
Members RobP Posted December 31, 2020 Members Report Posted December 31, 2020 (edited) Holster 3.emlHello, I'm new to the forum and I know this is an old thread. Im' a novice/ beginner leather crafter and these are some gorgeous holsters here. I have a couple questions about how the loop holsters are constructed. When making a lined holster do you cut the slots in the skirt after you have glued the lining on? Here is a couple of photos of my Bianchi holster. notice the back of the skirt is not cut. Now its obvious that the lining isn't cut so the loop in the skirt had to be cut before the lining went on correct? how would you accomplish this? Sorry for the dumb questions like i said, I'm a novice. Rob..p.s. i guess i don't know how to post pics Holster .eml Holster 3.eml Edited December 31, 2020 by RobP Quote
Members Dwight Posted December 31, 2020 Members Report Posted December 31, 2020 1 hour ago, RobP said: Holster 3.emlHello, I'm new to the forum and I know this is an old thread. Im' a novice/ beginner leather crafter and these are some gorgeous holsters here. I have a couple questions about how the loop holsters are constructed. When making a lined holster do you cut the slots in the skirt after you have glued the lining on? Here is a couple of photos of my Bianchi holster. notice the back of the skirt is not cut. Now its obvious that the lining isn't cut so the loop in the skirt had to be cut before the lining went on correct? how would you accomplish this? Sorry for the dumb questions like i said, I'm a novice. Rob..p.s. i guess i don't know how to post pics Holster .eml 134.01 kB · 6 downloads Holster 3.eml 128.51 kB · 4 downloads Rob . . . not sure what kind of attachment you made here . . . but they would not open . . . got some goofy "Want to add this to messenger" page from some google or MS page. Try putting a *.jpg or *.bmp so the rest of us can see them. But if I understand your question: yes glue it all together first . . . make the holster . . . then do the cutting. Otherwise you have to fiddle with the edges . . . never really getting them a good as if they are cut together at the same time . . . glued together. May God bless, Dwight Quote
Members RobP Posted December 31, 2020 Members Report Posted December 31, 2020 but how do you keep from cutting through the liner if you cut the slots for the holster loop after the liner is glued. Notice the back of the skirt is not cut but the front of the skirt is for the holster to fit through. Maybe I'm missing something here. If I am I apologize for the dumb questions in advance. Rob Quote
Members Dwight Posted December 31, 2020 Members Report Posted December 31, 2020 (edited) What you are missing here is that the front is not cut to make a loop. Another piece of leather is actually added on this holster to give the appearance of a Mexican loop holster . . . but it is of the John Bianchi style . . . two pieces of leather bonded (glued) together make the body of the holster . . . a third piece is used to go around the holster as a "loop". That is my favorite western holster to make . . . May God bless, Dwight Edited December 31, 2020 by Dwight Quote
Members RobP Posted December 31, 2020 Members Report Posted December 31, 2020 (edited) I respectfully disagree. I can pull the toe away from the skirt enough to see the slot cut and the liner behind it. Yes this is one of John's holsters. Heres is a closer look. Rob Edited December 31, 2020 by RobP Quote
Members JWheeler331 Posted December 31, 2020 Members Report Posted December 31, 2020 Some great looking holsters guys. Lots of great info in this thread also. Quote
Members Dwight Posted January 1, 2021 Members Report Posted January 1, 2021 4 hours ago, RobP said: I respectfully disagree. I can pull the toe away from the skirt enough to see the slot cut and the liner behind it. Yes this is one of John's holsters. Heres is a closer look. Rob Sure fooled me all to pieces . . . that being the case . . . the holes had to be cut first . . . at least that is how I would do it. That is one pretty holster . . . are you going to copy it or make one similar?? May God bless, Dwight Quote
Members RobP Posted January 1, 2021 Members Report Posted January 1, 2021 Hi Dwight. Me trying to copy a John Bianchi holster would be like me trying to copy the Mona Lisa. I may attempt to make something similar in a cross draw in the future. I'm still practicing my tooling and round knife skills. The more I practice the luckier I get. Rob Quote
CFM chuck123wapati Posted January 1, 2021 CFM Report Posted January 1, 2021 On 12/31/2020 at 9:00 AM, RobP said: how would you accomplish this? Holster .eml 134.01 kB · 11 downloads Holster 3.eml 128.51 kB · 7 downloads I would probably glue up the holster and liner but leave the skirt part unglued until i had the holster to a point where i could get my correct placement and angle of the loop, then cut and form the loop then glue the liner and skirt then sew. Bianchi already had the pattern so he knew where to cut the loop we never saw his first try lol. I have made one myself, unlined so didn't have to think that hard. Quote
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted January 1, 2021 Contributing Member Report Posted January 1, 2021 36 minutes ago, chuck123wapati said: probably glue up the holster and liner but leave the skirt part unglued until Quote
Members RobP Posted January 1, 2021 Members Report Posted January 1, 2021 Thanks guys, that makes perfect sense. Glue up the holster, locate your cut lines for the loop, flip the skirt liner out of the way then cut your slits for your loop. Flip the skirt back down and mark through your slits/ slots onto the inside of the skirt liner. then glue up to your marks. thanks again, Rob Quote
Members dikman Posted January 3, 2021 Author Members Report Posted January 3, 2021 I really like that approach, it looks very smooth and elegant. Quote
Members 1961Mike Posted April 7, 2021 Members Report Posted April 7, 2021 On 12/31/2020 at 12:40 PM, Dwight said: What you are missing here is that the front is not cut to make a loop. Another piece of leather is actually added on this holster to give the appearance of a Mexican loop holster . . . but it is of the John Bianchi style . . . two pieces of leather bonded (glued) together make the body of the holster . . . a third piece is used to go around the holster as a "loop". That is my favorite western holster to make . . . May God bless, Dwight Hi Dwight, this is more or less what Will Ghormley calls the Lawdog holster. I made one for practice out of crappy 6-7 ounce leather. I finished it with Neatsfoot oil and Skidmores after letting it get a tan in the sun for a couple of days. The holster practically jumps out of the strap when I draw it. How do you avoid that on this style holster? If I used Vinegaroon would the extra stiffness make it stay in place? Thanks Quote
Members Dwight Posted April 7, 2021 Members Report Posted April 7, 2021 4 hours ago, 1961Mike said: Hi Dwight, this is more or less what Will Ghormley calls the Lawdog holster. I made one for practice out of crappy 6-7 ounce leather. I finished it with Neatsfoot oil and Skidmores after letting it get a tan in the sun for a couple of days. The holster practically jumps out of the strap when I draw it. How do you avoid that on this style holster? If I used Vinegaroon would the extra stiffness make it stay in place? Thanks Since the holster is done . . . we cannot add good quality veg tan leather . . . which would have stopped that completely. 3 or 4 good coats of 50/50 Resolene / water . . . "might" cure it. Vinegaroon will not make it substantially stiffer. Being very careful how and where you put it . . . a small concho (or 2) on the strap should hold it . . . and the strap should be so tight on it that you have to work serious hard to get the holster up thru it. Honestly never had the problem. May God bless, Dwight Quote
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