Members Hildebrand Posted June 1, 2018 Members Report Posted June 1, 2018 How do you guys lay out the 2 layers to apply the contact cement and then put them together? I am afraid the instant bond of contact cement will make my 2 pieces off if I am not perfect when I touch them together the first time. Thanks, Todd Quote
Members Bonecross Posted June 1, 2018 Members Report Posted June 1, 2018 (edited) You are right to be wary of placement! The best way to learn is to make mistakes though, so be bold... And maybe make a jig to help align the pieces Usually I sorta curve the top belt leather and guide it along with my fingers as it gets laid down, like laying a transatlantic cable! If you make a sound like a machine it helps You will need to sand it anyway, so maybe make one piece slightly larger and then the edges don't need to be perfectly aligned. You can clean it up after. Edited June 1, 2018 by Bonecross Quote
garypl Posted June 2, 2018 Report Posted June 2, 2018 1 hour ago, Bonecross said: You are right to be wary of placement! The best way to learn is to make mistakes though, so be bold... And maybe make a jig to help align the pieces Usually I sorta curve the top belt leather and guide it along with my fingers as it gets laid down, like laying a transatlantic cable! If you make a sound like a machine it helps You will need to sand it anyway, so maybe make one piece slightly larger and then the edges don't need to be perfectly aligned. You can clean it up after. Agree with Bonecross - mark one piece larger , glue the pieces, then trim both edges. You can also place a piece of paper over the bottom piece to keep the ends apart while you are placing the top piece onto the bottom piece. This will not stick to either piece and you can move it down the length as you work your way from one end to the other. Gary Quote Cowboy 4500, Consew 206RB-4
IngleGunLeather Posted June 2, 2018 Report Posted June 2, 2018 Make your liner 1/4 inch wider on each side. Trace your outer layer on to the flesh side of the liner. Apply glue to both flesh sides. Lay outer layer in the traced area. Stitch after glue has cured. Cut away excess material. Sand, bevel, burnish, finish. Quote Ingle Gun leather
Members Dwight Posted June 2, 2018 Members Report Posted June 2, 2018 I set my cutting gauge and cut both pieces exactly the same size. Also try to get them both next to each other out of the same hide if I can. Do the ends of the liner and the belt blank. Apply cement and let dry. I then fold over my buckle end so I know exactly where I want my liner to start, . . . and with the liner doubled over backwards above and over my left hand, . . . I slowly feed the liner down onto the belt and use my thumb and forefinger of the left hand to line them up and make em fit right. I then go over the belt with special emphasis on the edges, . . . with a wallpaper seam roller. I then sand both edges flush, . . . stitch gouge both sides, . . . sew, . . . bevel, . . . and finish. It is the fastest and easiest system I've developed so far, . . . turns out belts that don't get complaints, . . . that makes me happy. May God bless, Dwight Quote If you can breathe, . . . thank God. If you can read, . . . thank a teacher. If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran. www.dwightsgunleather.com
Members dikman Posted June 2, 2018 Members Report Posted June 2, 2018 I have a comb binder (for making booklets etc) and the front covers are A4 size thin acetate. If I don't want the layers of something to stick straight away I place pieces of this between the layers then gradually remove them as I work down the two pieces. I like the idea of making one piece overwidth, never thought of that (duh!). Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Moderator immiketoo Posted June 2, 2018 Moderator Report Posted June 2, 2018 Oversized then trim is the only way to go. Nothing beats a freshly cut edge to make your burnishing process easier. Quote Learnleather.com
Rockoboy Posted June 2, 2018 Report Posted June 2, 2018 I am working on a couple belts and some dog collars right now. I cut the liner over-width on the second attempt on my 1st dog collar ... made things much easier. Yeah yeah I know ... 1st attempt was a learning experience. Quote Kindest regards Brian "Whether you think you can or whether you think you can't, you are right" Henry Ford Machines: Singer 201p, Kennedy, Singer 31K20, Singer 66K16 ("boat anchor" condition), Protex TY8B Cylinder Arm (Consew 227r copy), Unbranded Walking Foot (Sailrite LSV-1 copy)
Members Silverd Posted June 2, 2018 Members Report Posted June 2, 2018 Two established belt making techniques. 1. Same size blanks and liners that require an accurate joining process to keep the edges aligned. 2. Oversized top or liner that allows for noncritical joining but requires the over lap edges to be trimed. Do I have this right? Silverd Quote
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted June 2, 2018 Contributing Member Report Posted June 2, 2018 If you're making "plain" belts, solid color especially, you "could" line them up 'close' and then trim or sand to fit (keep in mind it should fit the buckle without excess room). If on the other hand your belt is carved, then it may be more important to keep the width accurate - not trimmed. I cut the front the size it needs to be, then cut the back (liner) about 1/4" wider SOLELY so I don't have to go nuts trying to line it up. Trim and finish edges. If you want to try to "save" that 1/4" of leather, you can glue both pieces, then separate them with wax paper, which will prevent the layers from sticking before you are ready. Works a bit like the backing on a postage stamp or address label, and is commonly available in your neighbor's kitchen Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
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