Thread for hand stitching

[InTheMiddle]

Hello! Newbie here.  

I purchase my items at Tandy because its nearby.  But they have been out of thread for a month.  I'm wondering  where I can purchase thread elsewhere. 

I've found thread but I don't know that it's the same gauge as what I use.  How can I tell?  

[bermudahwin]

If you are happy to let the folk here know your location; country or state if you don't want to divulge town, we may be able to direct you to a suitable source.

There was a recent post (by @chrisash i seem to recall) that directed folk to a comparison of thread gauges.

All I use at the moment are old linen and cotton 25/4, 18/3 etc which I dont know the millimeter or inch value.

Best

Harry

 

The post was here

 

Edited June 27, 2019 by hwinbermuda
added link

[InTheMiddle]

4 minutes ago, hwinbermuda said:

If you are happy to let the folk here know your location; country or state if you don't want to divulge town, we may be able to direct you to a suitable source.

There was a recent post (by @chrisash i seem to recall) that directed folk to a comparison of thread gauges.

All I use at the moment are old linen and cotton 25/4, 18/3 etc which I dont know the millimeter or inch value.

Best

Harry

Thanks for your reply!  I'm in Temecula, California but also open to order online.

[bermudahwin]

I edited my post with the link.

H

[InTheMiddle]

12 minutes ago, hwinbermuda said:

I edited my post with the link.

H

Thank you!  It looks like that is for machines?   I'm totally new to this so I'm lost! 

[Zonker1972]

https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/thread-sewing

i've been using the Riza Tiger Thread and it works well.

zonker

[InTheMiddle]

6 minutes ago, Zonker1972 said:

https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/thread-sewing

i've been using the Riza Tiger Thread and it works well.

zonker

Hi!

Thanks for the link!  How do I know which size?

[bermudahwin]

It depends on what you bought from Tandy.

My knowledge of threads is very limited as I use very traditional threads.

Hopefully someone that knows Tandy stock can pitch in

[zuludog]

You have two choices for hand sewing leather - synthetic or natural

The most widely used synthetic thread is braided polyester made by the Julius Koch company, under the brand name 'Ritza'. It has a picture of a tiger on the label so it is also known as 'Tiger Thread'. The usual sizes for sewing leather are 0,6mm and 0,8mm; just try some to see what thickness suits you. You can get full or smaller rolls to try from Rocky Mountain Leather supply

Natural thread for leather almost always means linen

Some of the best linen thread is 'Fil au Chinois', and it uses a French system to measure the thickness. You don't need to know how it's calculated, except that the lower the number, the thicker the thread. I use 332 and 432 to sew 3mm thick leather for knife sheaths. This is also sold by RMLS

Most other linen thread uses another system (was it originally British? I'd be interested to know). Again you don't need to know how it works, only that the most common thickness for sewing leather is 18/3. RMLS don't sell it so you'll have to Search for yourself or perhaps someone can recommend an American supplier

Don't buy anonymous linen thread off Amazon or Ebay, some of it isn't very good. Look for brand names such as Somac, Barbour, Coates, Crawfords,

RMLS have their own  brand of both synthetic and linen thread - Twist. I haven't used it but it seems reasonable enough. I think they give free samples

You say you get most of your stuff from Tandy. Does that include Tandy needles? Try using John James Saddlers Harness Needles size 002, JJ product code L3912, they're much better. These are sold by RMLS and they also do an assorted pack of needles so you could see which suits you. The prices for needles are reasonable enough for you to try

Edited June 27, 2019 by zuludog

[bermudahwin]

  Thanks Zuludog,

I use Barbour almost exclusively, and hand make some.

H

[zuludog]

Just thought I'd clear up some possible confusion

Fil au Chinois is French for Chinese Thread. In the early 19th century the French company Sanjou invented a way of making linen thread with a tighter twist, which made it smoother and stronger. At the time anything Chinese or Oriental was very fashionable, so they called it Chinese Thread, even though it was, and still is, made in France -- an early example of marketing hype

[InTheMiddle]

16 minutes ago, zuludog said:

You have two choices for hand sewing leather - synthetic or natural

The most widely used synthetic thread is braided polyester made by the Julius Koch company, under the brand name 'Ritza'. It has a picture of a tiger on the label so it is also known as 'Tiger Thread'. The usual sizes for sewing leather are 0,6mm and 0,8mm; just try some to see what thickness suits you. You can get full or smaller rolls to try from Rocky Mountain Leather supply

Natural thread for leather almost always means linen

Some of the best linen thread is 'Fil au Chinois', and it uses a French system to measure the thickness. You don't need to know how it's calculated, except that the lower the number, the thicker the thread. I use 332 and 432 to sew 3mm thick leather for knife sheaths. This is also sold by RMLS

Most other linen thread uses another system (was it originally British? I'd be interested to know). Again you don't need to know how it works, only that the most common thickness for sewing leather is 18/3. RMLS don't sell it so you'll have to Search for yourself or perhaps someone can recommend an American supplier

Don't buy anonymous linen thread off Amazon or Ebay, some of it isn't very good. Look for brand names such as Somac, Barbour, Coates, Crawfords,

RMLS have their own  brand of both synthetic and linen thread - Twist. I haven't used it but it seems reasonable enough. I think they give free samples

You say you get most of your stuff from Tandy. Does that include Tandy needles? Try using John James Saddlers Harness Needles size 002, JJ product code L3912, they're much better. These are sold by RMLS and they also do an assorted pack of needles so you could see which suits you. The prices for needles are reasonable enough for you to try

Thanks for your awesome and informative reply!

[zuludog]

Don't be afraid of your suppliers!. Ask their advice, tell them  you're a beginner, and what you want to do, and what you've been using. Talk to them!

And a phone call is much more pleasant than an email

Search YouTube for Thread for Sewing Leather. There are several videos. This is good - '10 differences between Tiger thread and Fil au Chinois' by Ian Atkinson

Tiger thread is very popular but I'm not keen on the way it feels or handles - you might. I prefer linen. That's why you should try a few different types & thicknesses.

Edited June 27, 2019 by zuludog

[Zonker1972]

2 hours ago, InTheMiddle said:

Hi!

Thanks for the link!  How do I know which size?

about half way down the page under Stitch Sizes

https://www.ianatkinson.net/leather/leatherguide.htm

zonker

[garypl]

I buy Ritza Tiger thread from Egyptian Leather on Etsy.  Nice selection at reasonable prices.

Gary

[thunter9]

it really depends on what thread size you want to use. and the size needles you have. they say tigar thread is some of the best but not your only chose. https://www.mainethread.com/  these guys do ok with many colors. the buckle guy also carries some of both

 

 

it really depends on what thread size you want to use. and the size needles you have. they say tigar thread is some of the best but not your only chose. https://www.mainethread.com/  these guys do ok with many colors. the buckle guy also carries some of both

 

https://www.thethreadexchange.com

[scrapyarddog]

Ritza Tiger .6 mm to 1.2 mm and Fil Au Chinois 832 (.44 mm) to 332 (.77 mm). 

Strength, durability and ease of use? Tiger.

Fine thread and aesthetic? Au Chinois.

If you’re using chiesels, I recommend Tiger though. It’s a flat braided thread and it fills the holes much better than twined linen threads. However, if you want a more refined look, avoid using chisels and use 7 spi prickkng irons or finer + equivalent to Au chinois 532 or finer.

Rocky Mointain Leather Supply has a good inventory on both brands.

[LatigoAmigo]

On 6/27/2019 at 9:41 AM, InTheMiddle said:

I'm wondering  where I can purchase thread elsewhere. 

I would recommend giving Maine Thread Company a try. I use them exclusively, and have been very pleased with the quality of their thread.

https://www.mainethread.com/index.php/waxed-polycord

Their waxed poly thread comes in 31 colors in 6 sizes, 70 yards per spool, and is available in assorted sizes, as described below:

• .020" ultra light weight polyester cord, 1 ply waxed. 210 feet on 2.5" tube.
• .030" light weight polyester cord, 2 ply twisted and waxed. 210 feet on 2.5" Tube.
• .035" light-medium weight polyester cord, 3 ply twisted and waxed. 210 feet on 2.5" Tube.
• .040" medium weight polyester cord, 4 ply twisted and waxed. 210 feet on 2.5" Tube.
• .045" medium-heavy weight polyester cord, 5 ply twisted and waxed. 210 feet on 2.5" Tube.
• .050" heavy weight polyester cord, 6 ply twisted and waxed. 210 feet on 2.5" Tube.

[CNHLeather]

Try Maker's Supply there thread is just as good if not better then tiger thread and it's alot cheaper 

https://makersleathersupply.com/collections/hand-sewing-supplies-tools-and-thread

[toxo]

On 7/18/2019 at 7:35 PM, CNHLeather said:

Try Maker's Supply there thread is just as good if not better then tiger thread and it's alot cheaper 

https://makersleathersupply.com/collections/hand-sewing-supplies-tools-and-thread

Until you add the $50 plus shipping to the UK.

[wizard of tragacanth]

On 7/18/2019 at 6:35 PM, CNHLeather said:

Try Maker's Supply there thread is just as good if not better then tiger thread and it's alot cheaper 

https://makersleathersupply.com/collections/hand-sewing-supplies-tools-and-thread

Hey! Thanks for that link... looks really good.

nick

[YinTx]

15 hours ago, toxo said:

Until you add the $50 plus shipping to the UK.

If you are on that side of the pond, lucky you, Abbey England is nearby.  Lots of hand sewing thread to be had from them, decent prices too.

YinTx