Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Members
Posted

Hi,  

I have an Adler 104-64,  that is suddenly giving me problems.

 

I am stitching two to three layers of heavy-ish belt leather,  and have not had trouble before,  but today,  I can not for the life of me get it to stich more then 5 stitches before it starts skipping stitches, and then stops stitching completly... and when I look at the needle,  some how the top thread is wrapped around the needle.

 

I cut the thread...   put it into the needle correctly, and same thing happens again.

 

Any suggestion?

 

Thank yuo i advance,   for any help!!

D

  • Replies 26
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Members
Posted (edited)

thread Wrapping around needle sounds weird . But start tracing down the problem . work back from the needle , needle bent/needle turned . the correct size needle and Skarf on correct direction to Hook or off-angle.
Had a needle strike lately ? . look/feel for a burr on needle/throat plate, burr on Hook .
.

Edited by nylonRigging
  • Contributing Member
Posted

Got thread with the right "twist"?

JLS  "Observation is 9/10 of the law."

IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.

5 leather patterns

  • Members
Posted

So ,  in my own trouble shooting,  I changed the needle already....   I will have to check the hook for burrs...

 

the comment about the thread is interesting,  because the cone is about 3/4 empty,  and I have noticed that it has a lot more twist to it then it did when the cone was full/larger...   could this cause it?

 

This is the first cone of thread I have ever used on this machine...   On the cone it says

 

Bonded Nylon 66

Tex 135     1250 yards

Col:Black

 

Does that sound right?

 

D

 

 

  • Moderator
Posted

You should be using a #22 or 23 needle with T135 thread. Are you? Also, make sure the top thread is feeding through the check spring, before the take-up lever.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

  • Members
Posted (edited)

Your nylon is always going to be a little stiff and curly with memory of the wrap/tension, especially on the last 25% left on the Roll .

In your 1st post your saying that it sewed perfect until now ?? . ( if so ? )  then something has suddenly changed different . You saying ? .." you only used this one thread #size this whole time  . You Did not accidentally put wrong needle in by mistake ? You did not have Scarf pointing wrong direction to Hook ? . Your Needle is pushed-up all the way in needle bar ?

---> So, you saying suddenly now, It's dropping Stitch and shredding/tangled on ( top-Thread and needle ) and fast in first 5-6  stitched laid down . You need to ' start ' by close scrutiny of all related to Needle - Hook .

.

Edited by nylonRigging
Posted
1 hour ago, Dantan said:

On the cone it says

 

Bonded Nylon 66

Tex 135     1250 yards

Col:Black

 

Does that sound right?

That sounds about right. The size of cone you are using is approximately 4 oz. There has be discussion on the problems associated with the 8 oz cones particularly black in colour from China in the past. I can see that the problems would be that much greater particularly when you get down towards the last 10 to 20 % with such a small cone. I would suggest replacing the thread cone with a new one of a larger size (1 lb would be best), check the needle and size of needle making sure it is fully seated and installed correctly.

kgg 

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

  • Members
Posted

Black thread is the worst for getting twisting. It is the most stiff thread because of the dyes they use to dye the thread.   I always told my production people to change to a new spool of thread halfway into a spool, especially on black.  As you use up more and more thread on a spool, it gets stiffer the closer to the end of the spool.  They used 1/2 spool left  strictly for bobbin winding.    Never had any problems following this approach.  We used #138 bonded thread in our production.  A&E's top nylon thread  made for automotive industry.  We were building hockey gear.   You may be having the same problem.  #23 titanium coated needles works great in this application.

glenn

  • Members
Posted
21 hours ago, Dantan said:

and when I look at the needle,  some how the top thread is wrapped around the needle.

This is an indication to me, that the check spring may not operate, as is should.

  • Members
Posted
11 hours ago, Gymnast said:

This is an indication to me, that the check spring may not operate, as is should.

I agree!

This could be the problem if the thread isn´t the problem. The check spring should hold the thread under "tension" until the needle touches the material (+/- a little bit) so it may depend on the material thickens you are sewing how to set the check spring.

 

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...