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My first try at a bag/purse. Im learning and in doing so creating an ever growing scrap pile. Sewing the gusset was an adventure. Got it totally backwards at first. Watched a few videos and learned the value of gluing first then sewing. Id like to expand the pattern and make a larger version of the bag. For now im trying smaller projects with no gusset. 

20210701_081430_copy_600x800.jpg

20210701_081443_copy_600x800.jpg

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Great job!

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Good job. Gussets are a pain at the best of times.

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9 hours ago, bigsig11010 said:

My first try at a bag/purse. Im learning and in doing so creating an ever growing scrap pile. Sewing the gusset was an adventure. Got it totally backwards at first. Watched a few videos and learned the value of gluing first then sewing. Id like to expand the pattern and make a larger version of the bag. For now im trying smaller projects with no gusset. 

20210701_081430_copy_600x800.jpg

20210701_081443_copy_600x800.jpg

FYI, You can make a bag with a different look by sewing the gusset/front panel the other way round.

These two bags are made from the same pattern with a completely different look. The strange looking strap was worked out so it can be worn as a belt bag or an over the shoulder.

IMG_2291.JPG Brown 40K.JPG

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Wonderful work.

 

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Don't fear the gusset!

If you make a groove with a race ~2 mm beyond the stitch line (that'd be 6 mm from the edge, assuming your stitch line is ~3-4 mm from the edge) and use a q-tip to moisten the groove and adjacent areas, you can bend the leather and make the gusset easier to stay in place and stich and prevent deformation on the finished product.

Here's a pouch with no groove:

Pipe_pouch--01.thumb.jpg.0d06252f26881b6e0001866790d69ca7.jpg

Note how the gusset wants to be the flat part and bends the front panel. Horrid!

 

Here's a pouch that was grooved prior to stitching:

1024666345_PipePouch2.thumb.jpg.c4dabc99e306622ec1e9168e87c4c05b.jpg

What a difference!

Edited by Hardrada

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Is the groove on the flesh side or gusset; I don't see it.

 

Tom

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I think your stitching might work better closer to the edge.  Just my opinion but I have found that when stitching is too far from the edge the layers have more of a tendency to separate.

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Toxo how did you join the gusset in the pics you shared? 
 

thanks to everyone for the info. 

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1 hour ago, bigsig11010 said:

Toxo how did you join the gusset in the pics you shared? 
 

thanks to everyone for the info. 

Grrr! Hit the wrong button so have to do it all again.

This pattern uses pre-punched holes which although not essential make curves easier because each stitch pulls a little bit more of the curve so no need for glue although a couple of clips might help.

As for the gusset, you used the gusset as the inside layer but you could just as easily used it as the outside layer or, as I did on the darker bag, one side in and one side out which gives the gusset a kind of "S" shape. You didn't make it easy on yourself by using leather that was twice as thick as necessary. If it has to be that thick you could skive the half inch or so around where the stitches will go and /or dampen around the edges.

As a beginner you should look at Tony Sees patterns at Dieselpunk.Ro. He's a great guy with a great sense of humour and all of his patterns come with a video tutorial.  He's becoming a bit of a cult figure over at ...

https://www.facebook.com/groups/dieselpunkro/?multi_permalinks=3821095971350671

It's a great community and every so often he gives away a free pattern to those in the group. This was one of them although I think you have to pay for it now.

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On 7/2/2021 at 9:46 AM, TomMeyers said:

Is the groove on the flesh side or gusset; I don't see it.

 

Tom

Flesh side of gusset. You might be able to see it in the image below—gussets are already folded along the groove, all ready to be glued to the back panel:

Casual_pouch--02.jpg.7836f3e23b6c36853dc0b405f9c15ba5.jpg

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VERY nice!!!!!

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I think you've done a great job on your first bag. Well done.

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