The Original Strap Cutter

[Spyros]

26 minutes ago, BeefSupreme said:

I need to research Ivan's more. I thought they were an extension of Tandy for some reason. Their websites are similar and many of the Tandy branded machines (ex: belt tipper) are 100% the same.

I'm gonna place an order soon directly to their website.  I've bought some of their stuff before through their australian distributors and of course I paid triple the price, but the actual items were excellent (including this strap cutter).  Especially I want to check out their hardware and shipping because the combination Buckleguy+DHL is starting to get a bit exxy.

They also make this thing which I need:

https://www.ivan.tw/collections/ivan-leathercraft/products/jumbo-punch-set

and this thing, which I want:

https://www.ivan.tw/collections/ivan-leathercraft/products/adjustable-leather-razor-plier

Edited November 19, 2021 by Spyros

[jcuk]

2 hours ago, Spyros said:

I'm gonna place an order soon directly to their website.  I've bought some of their stuff before through their australian distributors and of course I paid triple the price, but the actual items were excellent (including this strap cutter).  Especially I want to check out their hardware and shipping because the combination Buckleguy+DHL is starting to get a bit exxy.

They also make this thing which I need:

https://www.ivan.tw/collections/ivan-leathercraft/products/jumbo-punch-set

and this thing, which I want:

https://www.ivan.tw/collections/ivan-leathercraft/products/adjustable-leather-razor-plier

Spyros you may want to check local hardware stores or Amazon Australia for wad punch sets may work out cheaper for you.

https://www.amazon.com.au/s?k=wad+punch+set&rh=n%3A5159226051&ref=nb_sb_noss

These are what Abbey England sell and no i did not get mine from them, got half decent set from a local hardware store for a third of the price.

https://www.amazon.com.au/Maun-Metric-Punch-1000-MAUWPKM/dp/B0001P0E14/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=wad%2Bpunch%2Bset&qid=1637344942&s=home-improvement&sr=1-8&th=1

Hope this helps 

JCUK

Edited November 19, 2021 by jcuk

[Matt S]

I love my Stockton-made strap cutter, after years of struggling with Ivan and other Far Eastern-made looky-likeys that cut poorly, never cut straight, or just plain self-destructed. While at first glance they look the same the devil is in the detail.

When I got my first Stockton about 5 years ago it was £30 -- double the price of the cheapies -- but readily available through a few UK outlets. Even at that price it was great value considering how many times I'd paid that over and over buying crap ones that ended up in the bin.

A couple years ago I realised how much I rely on this tool and wanted to buy some backups, only to find that the original manufacturers seems to have disappeared, and all stock sold out. I even spoke with a large UK retailer/dealer (who now sell the cheapy) about getting the original one reproduced. They'd looked into this themselves when the supply dried up but decided against it.

I've now managed to get hold a few backups second-hand, so the pressure's off. I've been tempted to set up to make a few batches from some nice hardwood incorporating some product improvements I've come up with. Then I remind myself of the 60+-hour weeks I do already and that I'm setup for leather not wood...

[jcuk]

50 minutes ago, Matt S said:

I love my Stockton-made strap cutter, after years of struggling with Ivan and other Far Eastern-made looky-likeys that cut poorly, never cut straight, or just plain self-destructed. While at first glance they look the same the devil is in the detail.

When I got my first Stockton about 5 years ago it was £30 -- double the price of the cheapies -- but readily available through a few UK outlets. Even at that price it was great value considering how many times I'd paid that over and over buying crap ones that ended up in the bin.

A couple years ago I realised how much I rely on this tool and wanted to buy some backups, only to find that the original manufacturers seems to have disappeared, and all stock sold out. I even spoke with a large UK retailer/dealer (who now sell the cheapy) about getting the original one reproduced. They'd looked into this themselves when the supply dried up but decided against it.

I've now managed to get hold a few backups second-hand, so the pressure's off. I've been tempted to set up to make a few batches from some nice hardwood incorporating some product improvements I've come up with. Then I remind myself of the 60+-hour weeks I do already and that I'm setup for leather not wood...

Got my first Stockton one when i first started out could not afford a Plough gauge then and which were only made for orthodox, me being a south paw this was a godsend to  me 25 + years ago and guess what still going strong now and have cut some real heavy leather with it no problem, and no i don't have a replacement but do have the metal one which is ok but it does slip out of measurement quite easily also do have a plough gauge (orthodox,)  but still like to use the strap cutter just easy to use left or right handed.

[fredk]

6 hours ago, BeefSupreme said:

I need to research Ivan's more. I thought they were an extension of Tandy for some reason. Their websites are similar and many of the Tandy branded machines (ex: belt tipper) are 100% the same.

I think they are the one & same

a. I've been getting promo emails from Tandy and Ivan lately. I only signed up for the Tandy. Both promo emails come together, one after the other and the Ivan offers hardware et cetera for projects in the Tandy email

b. I bought a lot of stamping tools last year. They were in plastic self-seal bags with a card insert. Both the tool number and the barcode on the card insert were the same for Tandy and Ivan for the same design stamp

[Spyros]

10 hours ago, Matt S said:

Then I remind myself of the 60+-hour weeks I do already and that I'm setup for leather not wood...

Yeah, I can relate to that... I've been trying to keep both leather and wood working alive in my small shop for years.   This is what it looks like now, left side is mostly woodworking, right side mostly leatherworking, with a shared-duty bench in the middle.

Funny enough, the main thing that keeps my woodworking alive these days is actually leatherworking, because I always want another cabinet or surface or tool, like that large stitching horse on the right.  But it's an uphill battle, I mean I can't postpone getting a sewing machine anymore, but you tell me where to put it in here

 

[KathrynHD]

On 11/20/2021 at 6:10 AM, Spyros said:

Yeah, I can relate to that... I've been trying to keep both leather and wood working alive in my small shop for years.   This is what it looks like now, left side is mostly woodworking, right side mostly leatherworking, with a shared-duty bench in the middle.

Funny enough, the main thing that keeps my woodworking alive these days is actually leatherworking, because I always want another cabinet or surface or tool, like that large stitching horse on the right.  But it's an uphill battle, I mean I can't postpone getting a sewing machine anymore, but you tell me where to put it in here

 

That looks a very organised workshop 

[Cumberland Highpower]

It's not looking too bleak...Maybe put your stitcher on casters and roll it into the corner when you're not using it?

Where do you Ozzies get good leather?  Have any good tanneries around, or mostly imports?

Edited November 24, 2021 by Cumberland Highpower

[Dwight]

My brother in law found this one laying in a drawer in a piece of used furniture he was refinishing.

He told me to take it home . . . been using it for close to 20 years . . . was at least that old when I got it from the looks of it.

I would not buy a wooden one when I can have a metal one that will never warp, crack, bust down the middle . . . etc.

And it is every bit as accurate as any strap cutter could be.   I break utility knife blades in half and use them.

May God bless,

Dwight

PS:  This is just an image . . .  not mine . . . but mine looks like it other than being several decades old

 

Edited November 24, 2021 by Dwight

[Spyros]

2 hours ago, Cumberland Highpower said:

It's not looking too bleak...Maybe put your stitcher on casters and roll it into the corner when you're not using it?

Where do you Ozzies get good leather?  Have any good tanneries around, or mostly imports?

All the corners are taken, I'll have to make some room

Other than liquids I import absolutely everything, mostly from Buckleguy.    Aussie sellers are typically very nice people and some of them have some good stuff, and despite their terrible prices I'd love to give them some business, but none of them is anywhere near me and their websites are archaic and often just impossible to find what you want.  It got to the point where I chose to pay $50 DHL for $15 worth of snaps from the other side of the planet rather than having to buy from Australia.

Edited November 24, 2021 by Spyros

[Dwight]

On 11/20/2021 at 1:10 AM, Spyros said:

Yeah, I can relate to that... I've been trying to keep both leather and wood working alive in my small shop for years.   This is what it looks like now, left side is mostly woodworking, right side mostly leatherworking, with a shared-duty bench in the middle.

Funny enough, the main thing that keeps my woodworking alive these days is actually leatherworking, because I always want another cabinet or surface or tool, like that large stitching horse on the right.  But it's an uphill battle, I mean I can't postpone getting a sewing machine anymore, but you tell me where to put it in here

 

If you buy a Tippmann Boss . . . you can use two C clamps and clamp it to that black table there . . . put a chair out from it . . . and you're in business for some $1400 or so.  Oh . . . and yes . . . it is a good machine . . . mine is in the 20 yr old range . . . and still works fine.  

May God bless,

Dwight

[Spyros]

2 minutes ago, Dwight said:

If you buy a Tippmann Boss . . . you can use two C clamps and clamp it to that black table there . . . put a chair out from it . . . and you're in business for some $1400 or so.  Oh . . . and yes . . . it is a good machine . . . mine is in the 20 yr old range . . . and still works fine.  

May God bless,

Dwight

I know, I am actually considering a handcranked cowboy outlaw for all the reasons you mentioned, but I think all those triple feeds and walking feet and all the rest of it probably have a reason of existence and make a prettier, more consistent stitch, and generally more appropriate for the things I make.

[Dwight]

I looked at all those things you mentioned . . . and quite honestly . . . you and I are the only ones looking at them.  

As long as it is not blatantly obvious . . . John Q public puts it on and wears it . . . and goes on down the road.

My Boss will make a very consistent stitch . . . for belts . . . holsters . . . and some billfolds.  It can be a bit finnicky when it comes to some other stuff . . . but one thing I do love about it . . . the hole punching is the next thing to el perfecto.  For certain holsters here and there . . . I have hole punched them and then hand stitched them . . . and I dare anyone to find fault with that arrangement.  

Hand stitching a belt is something I don't do . . . although I have on occasion done the tongue end for one reason or another.  Again . .  . Boss punches the holes . . . ol Dwight hand stitches them . . . and it does not take long.

I'm looking at adding a Cowboy 3200 . . . the dealer is only 100 miles from my door . . . with a great warranty . . . I'll use it for some more delicate things I want to add to my leather offerings.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Spyros]

2 hours ago, Dwight said:

I looked at all those things you mentioned . . . and quite honestly . . . you and I are the only ones looking at them.  

As long as it is not blatantly obvious . . . John Q public puts it on and wears it . . . and goes on down the road.

My Boss will make a very consistent stitch . . . for belts . . . holsters . . . and some billfolds.  It can be a bit finnicky when it comes to some other stuff . . . but one thing I do love about it . . . the hole punching is the next thing to el perfecto.  For certain holsters here and there . . . I have hole punched them and then hand stitched them . . . and I dare anyone to find fault with that arrangement.  

Hand stitching a belt is something I don't do . . . although I have on occasion done the tongue end for one reason or another.  Again . .  . Boss punches the holes . . . ol Dwight hand stitches them . . . and it does not take long.

I'm looking at adding a Cowboy 3200 . . . the dealer is only 100 miles from my door . . . with a great warranty . . . I'll use it for some more delicate things I want to add to my leather offerings.

May God bless,

Dwight

I think you got to the answer by yourself in the end: there's a reason people who do this for years eventually end up with a bunch of sewing machines

You already have one, adding a second one now, and sooner or later you'll probably pick up a third.   I know this, it's just that I have a serious issue with lack of space which is not going to change any time soon, and I know whatever I get I'll be stuck with it for years so I really need it to be as perfect as possible.

[Cumberland Highpower]

10 hours ago, Spyros said:

I know, I am actually considering a handcranked cowboy outlaw for all the reasons you mentioned, but I think all those triple feeds and walking feet and all the rest of it probably have a reason of existence and make a prettier, more consistent stitch, and generally more appropriate for the things I make.

Perhaps you might want to give a little more thought into that.   I've been working leather as a primary income for about 15 years.   Like everyone else I started on a real budget ($200).   I looked at a Boss back 20 years ago or so when they came out.   They do work and are easy to use, although I did not find the stitch quality to be very acceptable though.  The Cowboy Outlaw is probably as good or better than a Boss.  Weaver Leather here in OH bought the Luberto Cub and they are sold competitively.  I would go for the Cub as it's mostly made in USA rather than a made in PRC machine.

Now, I'd have to say buying a machine with triple feed may or may not be advisable.    If you work leather exclusively, a hook and awl machine is what you need. Absolutely beautiful stitch quality.  Yes, old, hard to find, etc.  Probably harder still to find in OZ.      I have owned just about every machine sold here in the States (except a Pearson).   Right now I have 10 hook and awl machines and exactly one threaded needle machine (205-64).   At one time I had a 205-370 and a Luberto Classic (Basically a Pearson w/a rotary hook).  The Luberto had a jump foot and needle feed, while the 205-370 was triple feed.   I much preferred the Luberto machine and sold the Adler.   You really don't need triple feed for leather...And sometimes all that "stuff" gets in the way as well as marking up the leather.  

[LePoisson]

I bow in deference to teh many pros here, but the only strap cutters I've used I made in about 10 minutes on my table saw and drill press out of hardwood offcuts. They only cut one size of strap, but since they cost a razor blade and 6 woodscrews, cut precisely, and never need adjustment, I'm pretty happy with them. No layout or measurement needed - just make sure your final depth and width of the strap cutting slot matches your desired outcomes.

I'm not sure whether there is a name for these. I guess you could call them strapp cutting blocks. Construction is in 6-7 easy steps...

1. Drill 6 holes in two rows on the narrow side of a block of wood to a depth of about 1".
2. Cut a slot in the block lengthwise equal in width to the "normal" thickness of leather you work, and to teh depth of the width of strap you wish to make.
3. Slice off the face of the block with the 6 holes in it, leaving yourself with a block with pilot holes, and 2 small plates.
4. Place a razor blade between the facer plate and the block, and screw the plate in place, holding the blade. For safety, grind the blade flat to the block if it protrudes.
5. Test cut a scrap of leather. The strap should be too narrow by about 3/8"
6. Adjust depth of the groove in the block to the width of strap you want by re-cutting the groove on the table saw deeper into the block until you have the depth you want. If you go too deep, shave a little off the face until you have exactly the width you need.
7. Mark the block for its intended use and add it to the tool shelf.

I have about 6 of these, set up to different sizes. Some have a different size on each side of the block. For instance in the one shown, I can cut a 3/4" strap (sized a little small to fit my buckles) on the side facing the camera, and a 1/2" strap on the opposite side.

[chuck123wapati]

18 hours ago, LePoisson said:

I bow in deference to teh many pros here, but the only strap cutters I've used I made in about 10 minutes on my table saw and drill press out of hardwood offcuts. They only cut one size of strap, but since they cost a razor blade and 6 woodscrews, cut precisely, and never need adjustment, I'm pretty happy with them. No layout or measurement needed - just make sure your final depth and width of the strap cutting slot matches your desired outcomes.

I'm not sure whether there is a name for these. I guess you could call them strapp cutting blocks. Construction is in 6-7 easy steps...

1. Drill 6 holes in two rows on the narrow side of a block of wood to a depth of about 1".
2. Cut a slot in the block lengthwise equal in width to the "normal" thickness of leather you work, and to teh depth of the width of strap you wish to make.
3. Slice off the face of the block with the 6 holes in it, leaving yourself with a block with pilot holes, and 2 small plates.
4. Place a razor blade between the facer plate and the block, and screw the plate in place, holding the blade. For safety, grind the blade flat to the block if it protrudes.
5. Test cut a scrap of leather. The strap should be too narrow by about 3/8"
6. Adjust depth of the groove in the block to the width of strap you want by re-cutting the groove on the table saw deeper into the block until you have the depth you want. If you go too deep, shave a little off the face until you have exactly the width you need.
7. Mark the block for its intended use and add it to the tool shelf.

I have about 6 of these, set up to different sizes. Some have a different size on each side of the block. For instance in the one shown, I can cut a 3/4" strap (sized a little small to fit my buckles) on the side facing the camera, and a 1/2" strap on the opposite side.

those are nice!

[fredk]

On 12/15/2021 at 6:45 PM, LePoisson said:

. . . I'm not sure whether there is a name for these. I guess you could call them strap cutting blocks.. . . 

Most excellent

All this talk on strap cutters, I decided to do some up-grading that I've long wanted to do on my strap cutter. I wanted to change the thumb screw to a knob and that lead to changing several other parts

My strap cutter, bought from Le Prevo about 21 years ago

I changed the thumb screw bolt to a knob

But on doing so I had to change the captive nut to the knob's bolt M8 thread. But the original captive nut is a poor one and I reckon it was not far short of needing replaced anyways. Its on the left and the better replacement on the right

The blade clamping bolts and their nuts were showing corrosion and the screwdriver slots were a bit churned up so they got replaced with M4 Allen key flanged head bolts and brass nuts

and, I glued on the top of the bars a steel ruler

If I can find a suitable replacement I'll change the thumb screw bolt on the bars as well

[327fed]

I made something similar to the one LePoisson made a while back. Worked OK but I did not think to grind the blade off. Cut myself a lot. His design is so much better. And I only do 3 or 4 widths. 

[Spyros]

Well technically you need an adjustment for the thickness of the leather as well, otherwise a soft-ish or thin-ish leather might start bending on itself inside the cutter slot which would result in an uneven cut.

But with the thick/firm leeather typically used for straps and belts it's really not an issue, so yeah no reason why not make a couple of those LePoisson cutters (TM) for your mostly used widths.  Its a good idea 

[Brewerkel]

On 11/17/2021 at 3:11 AM, DearBear said:

I mean this one.

 

 

The Leatherworks Company closed down in 2016 - 17 or so. No doubt the product is hard to find now. We sold hundreds of them over the years. We had to sell the Tandy one after that. It was okay.

Luckily, I have two or three of the originals around my shop as I am an incurable hoarder.

 

[LePoisson]

On 12/16/2021 at 7:59 PM, Spyros said:

Well technically you need an adjustment for the thickness of the leather as well, otherwise a soft-ish or thin-ish leather might start bending on itself inside the cutter slot which would result in an uneven cut.

But with the thick/firm leeather typically used for straps and belts it's really not an issue, so yeah no reason why not make a couple of those LePoisson cutters (TM) for your mostly used widths.  Its a good idea 

To the bending - you get a pretty steady hand after a while and figure it out. I may get some turn out at the end of a strap and have to scrap the last couple inches, but most of the time, that's where I punch a hanging hole anyhow (I have a rack I store my strips on before working them). And since I work from the opposite end toward that spot, well, meh. It's headed for the scrap bin regardless.

If I'm starting on a skinny bit of a strong taper, then the cutter does not start the strap nicely. Workaround is to just square off the end of the hide for an inch or so to allow the cutter to get a start - which is going to happen anyway after I cut the strap out, so no excessive waste there.

[Dlane]

I made my own 1/8”-4” works great, helps to have a machine shop.

[fredk]

Good job

I used to see on ebay a similar type of strap cutter made in China. It was a bit more elaborate and seemed of lighter construction