When using a vacuum bag to form a holster how many HP do you use?

[fredk]

2 hours ago, alpha2 said:

Irish Sea Level? If Irish Sea Level is 19 feet lower than the rest of the sea, It seems that there would a pretty good infow from north/south or both ends to level it out. 

It would seem that it should be fairly close to the mean sea level. 

Jeff

My place is between 35 and 50ft below Atlantic Mean Sea Level. (ie the other side of the island of Ireland) There are large whirlpools at the North end where the Irish Sea becomes the North Channel and meets the Atlantic. The whirlpools are those of legend, big enough to take a small ship to doom. At the South end of the Irish sea where its wider the tides are stronger as the sea tries to level it self. We have several small airfields and a small airport nearby and pilots are astonished that they have to set their altimeter for minus 35 or 50 feet

Sorry for off-topic. Just answering

 

[PeterinID]

I have a chamber vac, it's gauge reads MPa and I've found .08 MPa forms well while still letting me mold & model the leather. I think that is about 11mmHg. When I tried a little more (.1 MPa) there was no room to shape the leather further. The bag was sealed too tight and small wrinkles in the bag made impressions in the leather.

[Double Daddy]

I use the same HF pump that Dwight uses...as well as a similar bag and hose setup...sucks it all right down, good and tight. I believe I originally saw the design/materials list from a post that Particle (Adams Leatherworks) put up here on LW.net or on his own website/blog a number of years ago. Oil residue from the pump has never been an issue, as Dwight said...hose is really long since I like having the pump out of the way. I have had dye transfer from a leather piece to the bag itself but that was my fault (rushing a black dip-dyed project without allowing proper drying time).

Edited January 19, 2022 by Double Daddy

[DaveP]

1 hour ago, Double Daddy said:

I use the same HF pump that Dwight uses...as well as a similar bag and hose setup...sucks it all right down, good and tight. I believe I originally saw the design/materials list from a post that Particle (Adams Leatherworks) put up here on LW.net or on his own website/blog a number of years ago. Oil residue from the pump has never been an issue, as Dwight said...hose is really long since I like having the pump out of the way. I have had dye transfer from a leather piece to the bag itself but that was my fault (rushing a black dip-dyed project without allowing proper drying time).

I haven't tried any of this yet! You bring up a question for me. Assumption that when forming in a bag the leather has to be wet. If after dye dries and wet the leather enough for wet forming won't it do the same thing? I don't know hence the question.

 Thanks again

[Double Daddy]

2 hours ago, DaveP said:

I haven't tried any of this yet! You bring up a question for me. Assumption that when forming in a bag the leather has to be wet. If after dye dries and wet the leather enough for wet forming won't it do the same thing? I don't know hence the question.

 Thanks again

IMS, my problem with that particular holster was that (a) I didn't let the leather dry long enough after dip dyeing...and (b) I got it WAY TOO WET and didn't let it dry off for a bit before going into the vacuum bag (it was somewhat soggy). These two factors resulted in dye transfer to the inside of my bag...which proved "difficult" to remove, to say the least.

Unlike others, I don't do a lot of dip dyeing...don't like handling that much dye at one time (especially the black, which has a NASTY tendency to "migrate" onto things it ought'n to). I prefer the effects I get from the use of large pieces of shearing (being sure to double-glove up while handling said shearing piece). I mark my pieces on the leather to be cut, dye it, then cut it out after it dries. Oiled and finished at later steps. This allows me to do contrasting stitching if the order requires it.  Just my own personal method...

[DaveP]

Thank you for the explanation Chris!

 

[AzShooter]

I tried the Harbour Freight vacuum today.  It's got twice the power of my old vacuum and really works better.  For a cheap way to go, this can work a long time for what I need to accomplish.

[Hags]

Glad you tried it. I've used my set up for quite a few holsters now. No change in power, hasn't used any oil. I have no issues with oil vapor, but do have have some transference of dye to the bag. I think when you put recently dyed, wet leather in a bag and suck it down its inevitable.  The bag Adams leather works uses on his video is pretty brown as well. I dont leave my mo,dad holsters in the bag under vacuum for very long. I pull vac, form the front, stop, flip the holster over, and apply vac and do the back. Take it out of the bag and detail.

[Dwight]

I've never had a dye problem with my vacuum bag . . . but then again . . . I form first . . .  then dye.

AND . . . using Joann's vinyl by the yard (with a 50% off coupon) . . . I can toss a bag with no problem . . . 

Fact is . . . in the next few days . . . will probably be making a new one . . . I need one a bit smaller for some smaller holsters.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Double Daddy]

13 hours ago, Dwight said:

AND . . . using Joann's vinyl by the yard (with a 50% off coupon) . . . I can toss a bag with no problem . . . 

Fact is . . . in the next few days . . . will probably be making a new one . . . I need one a bit smaller for some smaller holsters.

One that subject, Dwight...and having a Joann's within travelin' distance myself...what glue/adhesive do you use when fabricating a new bag? Thanks!