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I bought these many years ago and don't even remember what kind of skins they are. The large one is 8 feet long and 9.5 inches wide at mt hand span. The smaller Tandy skin is probably 2 feet or so. The product number is no longer listed in Tandy's ever-changing catalog. In the near future, I am going to be selling off stock that I no longer need. Can anyone tell me what I have and the possible value?

One issue I have had with the Aquillim 315 is it is difficult to get good smooth edges. It's like it leaves a rubber cement type of substance on the edge when you are trying to sand it. I have not been able to get rid of it. Which is too bad because and odorless contact cement would be awesome especially in the winter since I have to go out to the shop to use the regular stuff due to the fumes. Todd

Antique is used as a top layer after the leather is dyed. The leather is tooled, then dyed to a color of your choice, then you add a coat of clear finish like Resist or Resolene, then add antique and wipe it down. This will leave the antique in the crevices. Then add another coat of your clear finish to lock in the antique. Trying to match dissimilar leathers is going to be really, really tough. If you're going to use chrome tan pick a color then try to match the vegtan the best you can. Using a contrasting vegtan can work perfectly as well. Take a dark brown chrome tan then add a light tan or natural vegtan, it will work well together. I found this on pintrest;

It came out great! I actually like the brown dyed thread in that area as it doesn't take away the flow of the pistol to holster.

8oz is pretty think for a wallet. I would go with 5oz, it will still tool but you'll have to use a lighter hand. For the interior I use either 2/3oz vegtan or English bridle. When tooling remember to use blue painters tape on the flesh side so help minimize stretching.

I have and do both. I love the look of hand tooled leather. Also: I have laser engraved leather photos that adjust the shading etc. and look pretty doggone classy. In every endeavor there are many ways to incorporated what is liked. That said: when you engrave mostly "sketch lines" it isn't nearly as impressive.

Kangaroo is probably the best, but expensive. I use 2oz vegtan leather for my card pockets.

Some folks commented on Youtube that Makers sells a less expensive water based contact adhesive that is comparable to Aquilim 315.

That's a beauty, love it.

For me, something tooled by hand looks so much better, and here is why I think that when you carve something by hand, you create depth with beveling, and stamping creates that certain color and shaded look that can't be replicated with a machine. Also, working a piece of leather by hand, each Artisan develops and establishes a style of their own, a style of work that people recognize. Laser engraving is okay on hats and patches, but not on something of high quality. IMHO

My recent builds have been with Timberline, Double L, and Swanke. I've been happy with all of them, but there are differences in cost and quality. Depends on what you want. Randy

Customer just picked up this holster. His son had me make him one a few years ago for a .41 magnum and he wanted one similar to it for his 22 lr. I have a love hate with white thread, if you don't die and finish before stitching it takes on the color of the die. In this case with it being lined I needed to sew the top edge before assembly so I did without it being died and paid the price when the top stitches disappeared in the die. White edge stitches still popped pretty good. He is tickled with it, I was able to use my 3-D printer to print his initials rather than hand cut them. The 3-D stamp is much cleaner and easier.

A new to me Pfaff double needle 346-H2. Won't pick up the bobbin thread. Ya, I've tried moving the rotary hook closer to the needle scarf. Used the needle bar clamp and gauge. (1.8mm). finally called in a repair guy from the local sewing machine shop that serviced industrial machines. No joy, couldn't "fix" it. There has got to be something I'm missing here. The repairer say the hooks are probably worn out? No, it has never sewn for me. Just now starting to get it recommissioned after picking it up a couple years ago. . SOOOO... what am I missing? OR, anyone know of a replacement part for these rotary hooks? I can't find any info on interchangeable parts/modern made. Are any Pfaff single needle machine parts interchangeable? I found a resource that suggests that the 335 machine shares many parts with the 346, such as rotary hooks. Can someone confirm this?

If I ever make a "real" one it'll be wider with two layers and glued and stitched. These are just to hold my trousers up and stop me wondering which pair of trousers I left my one belt on last.

So, I want to get into wallet making. My plan is an 8 oz veg tan outside that I tool. What is a good cheap (Not Genuine leather) thin leather to cut the individual card pockets and interior of the wallet out of. Want thin so the wallet can close easily. Basically I don't understand all the leather cuts and terms. What's the cheap thin cut of chrome tan, or is there something better I should use? (asking all you wallet makers out there.)

Wow, that's cool, all this just from the question, what do you call it? It is fun, though, thanks Johanna.

I got one of these that count out from the center. It's very useful a times.

Doc, did you have a hard time with the welt being so thick that it was hard to keep the stitching straight on both sides?

Really, it was the only way I could see to make that holster do what the guy wanted it to do. And, like Doc said, the gun does rest nicely on that thick edge. The problem with that thick of a welt is the stitching keeping the holes perfect through that much leather. I did it on the second one. should have taken some pictures, but I didn't think to at the time. It was just a little nothing holster, but at the same time, pretty cool.

@S. Kaplan Sewing Machine, I moved your post to the For Sale area. Please review the rules here: https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/70-announcements/ and be sure you're in compliance. I think the only thing we need is a pic or two posted to your ad. I see a large attachment. Many, including myself, just aren't going to download it. Typically if you resize a couple of pictures to be 800 pixels in the longest dimension, that's more than adequate for downstream viewers, even on the fringes of the internet. You can just add a couple of pictures as a reply since the edit time on your post isn't that long. Thanks for posting and good luck with your sale.

Forgive the picture. This is the only Antique stain I have messed with. (like I said I just started leather craft this month.) So far I have been limited to what remnants they had available to Hobby Lobby and buying a shoulder in any color that I cant see before purchasing is intimidating to me. Thank you all for the advice.

Two mostly complete heads on pedestals, three heads missing parts off pedestals and one additional pedestal, along with five large drawers containing many new parts. Can be inspected in Newark, NJ. Best offer over $ 3500.00 takes the lot. Will pack for truck shipment, add $ 300.00 kaplansew@gmail.com drive-download-20250828T164718Z-1-001.zipdrive-download-20250828T164718Z-1-001.zip

Thank you, Northmount!

They are decent enough, better then some I have seen for sale. Suggestion: Add a stitch line along the edge to help reduce stretching. kgg