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Hi, This is what it looks like : .https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/81869-hand-wheel-shaft-gear-singer-29k.html Got one from a 29k51 that I can send you for free except you pay for the postage. Used to work in Regina for GE Railcar Repair as a weldor - back in the days when the Apollo MC was still in existence. If ya think that I´m trying to gyp ya - I can provide refs that this ain´t the case - only through personal message though. Greetings from Germany Tigweldor

Looks like a table-mounted bobbin winder could be a 3:1 speed reducer if you added a tiny pulley to the spot where you normally mount the bobbin.

I cut the fingers off an old pair of leather gloves and slip one on my finger. I cut off the end so my finger pokes out. Sewn quite a few holsters and gunbelts, Works for me.

Luberto Classic Custom Leather Sewing Machine - Metal Flake Blue $4,000 OBO (Sold for $6,900 New) This awesome hot rod has been good to me, but sadly it’s time for me to let it go. This machine will stitch your thickest leather projects, it can sew over one inch of leather. It can be used by handcranking or electric servo motor. In great condition! Made in the USA. Includes many extras. - Flat bed attachment - Drop Down Roller Guide - Extra Presser Foot - Holster Plate - Stirrup Plate - Electric Servo Motor - 12 bobbins - A bunch of Schmetz and Organ Needles - Bobbin Winder - Work light - Handcrank Knob - User manual - Spools of Thread - Stand -Instructional DVD - Home Rip with child’s artwork on the inside-Still plays nicely. Location: Los Angeles California. Close to the Gene Autry Museum. Pick up only - No Shipping Available

I use athletic tape. Maybe that's the white tape Bruce mentioned. I tried band aids, but they weren't very effective. Randy

These work for me. I had to make them with very thin leather though. Else bending the pinkie as one stitches can cause discomfort. I keep it in position with Velcro. Very little stitching required. The pattern, if you plan to purchase, is $3.75 at this point, on Etsy. \https://www.etsy.com/listing/177991649/pattern-leather-stitching-glovelettes?ls=s&ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=leather+gloves+pattern&ref=sr_gallery-1-18&sr_prefetch=1&pf_from=search&pro=1&sts=1&dd=1&content_source=26ef2132-bc4e-4635-9661-a74388428a26%3ALT6f7c3042b01201a47c9bd6f7e052a3bda7b44709&organic_search_click=1&logging_key=26ef2132-bc4e-4635-9661-a74388428a26%3ALT6f7c3042b01201a47c9bd6f7e052a3bda7b44709

white tape

Or NTB in the City where the Adlers came from: https://naehtechnik.eu/

I'm not trying to be negative, I'm just trying to understand how this would be any type of self-rewarding process. A guy can save pattern files and print them easily enough and trace them out pretty quickly, so that's not much advantage. Actually, using a swivel knife does take longer at first, but you also learn your pattern and how to use your knife in the process, a skill thats is required for any decent tooling. It reminds me of those old paint-by-number kits they used to sell, lol, you ended up with something painted, but gained no actual artistic knowledge of why or how you did it. A disadvantage IMO, ten years down the road, you still don't know how to do it by hand, and your skill level hasn't improved. Might as well just buy clicker and embossing plates if precision and time are the goal. The elephant in the room? Many of the very good toolers we try to emulate learned almost from the first to draw in and layout thier pattterns free hand. Patterns and tracing were simply a waste of time to them.

I don't hand sew but I would think maybe leather gloves something similar to those used for Cycling, Weight Lifting or Wheelchair use would work. kgg

Hey all, Okay, so it’s definitely a rookie question… I have yet to really grow my callouses on my pinkies, and my thread is starting to cut through my skin as I pull and tighten my stitches (I only hand stitch…). Any advice on how to protect my fingers while my callouses form? Thanks, and may you never burn your bacon, AZR

Thank you for all of your input guys, and Bruce, thank you for your cheat sheet with thread sizing. Absolutely not knocking your advice, but thread sizing is rather lost on me. I’ve never even used a sewing machine, and I hand-stitch with almost always .8mm Ritza, though obviously the same principles apply. Not sure right at the moment who mentioned the saddle creaser, but it’s definitely on my list of tools to get (and I know they’re generally pretty cheap). In the end, I actually had to rework the strap anyway because I trusted my cuts to be exact, which they weren’t, and I bonded it with another strap wider so I could simply trim to fit properly. It actually allowed me to sandwich a strip of cushy chrome tan, so added bonus on finish features. Thank you again everyone. I will definitely keep everyone’s advice in mind as I keep working and learning. Happy holidays to all, Preston

Chuck, Advantage I see? I keep the laser file, engrave to leather anytime I wish. The engraving should take about 30 to 60 seconds. The drawing is precisely the same every time.

Check with Liersch: https://liersch.com/online-shop/ersatzteile/ or Zieger: https://www.np-z.com/ or Busche: https://busche-online.de/ If they don´t have it in the Shop send them an Email - Answers may take longer due to Christmas season.

Yes and No. The manuals do show how to wind a bobbin, load/unload a bobbin, what direction the bobbin should turn when the bobbin thread is pulled and what screw to adjust for increasing or decreasing the tension just not how not how to get the tension close to what is needed for a given thread size or what not to do when adjusting the tension screw. Note: 1) Juki LS-1341 can have it's bobbin tension adjust while in your hand and not in the machine and you can do a drop test like a flatbed machine since it is a split case setup. 2) The manuals indicate the bobbin should turn clockwise NOT counter clockwise. Here are three examples from the Juki manuals. Other Brand Name and Clone machines may differ. : i) Juki LS-1341 (compound walking foot cylinder bed)--> threading a bobbin ii) Juki LS-1341 (compound walking foot cylinder bed) --> adjusting bobbin tension iii) Juki DNU-1541S (compound walking foot flatbed)--> threading a bobbin iv) Juki DNU-1541S (compound walking foot flatbed) --> adjusting bobbin tension v) Juki DU-1181N (walking foot flatbed) --> threading a bobbin vi) Juki DU-1181N (walking foot flatbed) --> adjusting bobbin tension kgg

I'm going to move you over to the Leather Sewing Machine sub forum. I'll be surprised if those parts aren't available.

7" from the hinge on my 206rb5

Dear Leatherworker, I've got an old ADLER 67 from some people, who don't wanted to throw it on the scrap and so it's spending its last years in my shop. It's black, it's beautiful but I don't really know what to do with it, but I can't waste it. It's very well functioning, very smooth and brimming with good old technology for longterm first class service. Just a few parts are missing, those are the thread tension screw (Adler part nr. 992 00 863 7) and the tension spring (Adler part nr.099 00 480)! I tried to get hold of those but there are no offers! Another guy told me those screws are the same as from PFAFF ?, another one sells it from England for 30 Pounds per unit! Does anybody has some laying around or does someone know what screwthread is cut into those originals tension screws from Adler? Thanks in advance! from Adler?

I never did that drop test, the manuals show how to set the tension right. That works for decades, just follow it. But as always - many roads lead to Rome - or each to his own. 😉

The bobbin is the same it's the bobbin case that is different. Here is a good video on doing a drop test on a flatbed machine. The same applies for a Juki compliant bobbin case on a cylinder arm. kgg

i dont see any improvement over doing it by hand. Am I missing something? How long did it take? I make these too. I can trace that and cut it out and be ready to tool in about 5 minutes by hand.

BTW - I put one off these in a plastic box and wired it to the motor. https://www.ebay.de/itm/396873227544 But I´m using it for my electric bobbin winder which run with domestic sewing machine motors. Not sure if this is a solution for you. They are available everywhere and I think even cheaper. This was my project back in 2017

Thanks

servo motor and speed reducer come to my mind but depends on your sewing machine table and if the machines have a hand wheel with pulley and no built in motor.

@DieselTech thank you very much