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How does it work after sharpening?

Here is the after photo: I can see now that the camera is not looking directly down the hook axis. Oh well..at least the before and after shots got the same treatment 🤷‍♂️ I faced the inside and outside edges of the hook using a diamond sharpening stone. Stone is 25x75x6 millimeters, on a 320mm stick of oak.

Considering that I couldn't find much for references, I agree that sharpening a hook is uncommon. I'm satisfied with the hook-to-needle timing, and I want a sharp hook with useful angles. So here we go... Here's the before photo, so you can see how rounded the tip of this hook is. Also note that the hook tip is positioned directly above the center of the hook in this photo, so you can imagine the arc swung by the hook as it intercepts the thread/needle.

I may be wrong (I have limited experience on machines), but I don't think sharpening the hook is common practice. I would think that the hook/needle interaction is more a matter of timing. Perhaps someone more knowledgeable will chime in.

You asked that before:

Thank you for that. 🙂

needle two small for 138 thread, Go to a 140/#22. glenn

Seeing your burb makes me think of my landys. 'sigh' . I have 3 of them Your burb looks so good btw 👍 Atm I am ' resource rich and time poor' , that's my latest catch phrase . There's so many things I'd love to do but no time to do them , including playing with my 'toys' . Yeh , that barby works great 👍 It's Fathers Day here in Oz on Sunday, 7th September. So I'll be doing a roast lamb and vegies, and with champers😋 I got him a Vincent Black Shadow motorcycle model, for fathers day , like the one he had in the uk , and I once rode in ( the side car ) when I was a baby. I sat on mums lap. It was all black with red leather interior, I still remember how it looked and smelt, i don't know how I remember that, i just do, that's weird. HS

Something that's new if you are coming from domestic sewing machines is that you have to hold the top thread when you start a seam. Here's what I do: Move the takeup lever to the highest position. (Otherwise the takeup lever will steal the top thread from you when you commence stitching) Insert material under presser foot Lower presser foot Hold top thread in place while you make your first two or three stitches, then you can release the top thread At the end of your seam, again move the takeup lever to the highest position to set the last stitch before you remove the material Sometimes instead of merely holding the top thread in place, I actually preload the top thread until the thread check spring deflects, then hold in that position to start the seam. If you choose to do this advanced option, because your middle presser has an open cutout on the right side you will need to have the top thread going down under your middle presser foot and out the the left. (My middle presser has a full round hole so I can pull mine any direction without deflecting the needle)

Do you have a manual? Here is one I found on manualslib: pfaff-491-471-manual.pdf Page 11-33 shows how to adjust the pressure of the roller presser. You may also want to check the height of the feed wheel, that's on page 11-18.

Thanks, I’m still working on it, I think there’s also a tension issue.

Ok so I timed it accordingly to the 2mm specified for the 345. I was able to slide the bobbin base a bit forward to that the hook is closer to the needle. Good news is that I’m starting to get something that looks like stitches but there’s still entanglement. Here’s a video to the issues I’m having at the moment. IMG_9295.mov

If what @CowboyBob told us about the 111W machines holds true, at this point of the needle stroke (all the way down) the point of the hook should be on an imaginary line between the center of the bobbin and the needle plate screw closest to the operator. This one is late or early, depending. In case the viewer can't tell, the point of this hook is right next to the bobbin latch on the opposite side.

That's the only thing I'm envious of in the US,the space. Must be great. Thanks for the cool on the hat.

I have published a complete guide, it is more complete than my OP: https://birchees.ca/how-to-make-salmon-leather-updated-method/

oh yeah, the Dixon club bar on a Saturday night would test your endurance for sure lol. It's very cool I love the look, color, and excellent work but probably not something you could wear here without some feedback.

Some nicely creative stuff going on there. Welcome aboard!

Its a suburban lol Its my nickname for this thing I drive out in the boonies (offroad). There is still plenty of nowhere out here to get lost, stuck, or broke down in. 6" lift, 37"deep lug tires, 10,000 lb winch gets me through the shit and back home. i would look great driving her to elk camp with that red hat of yours, which is really cool btw, but i doubt i would make it out of the Dixon Bar safe with it on LOL.

Thank you! That's a huge help. I do have liquid wax running through the wax pot and I'm also waxing the thread on the bobbin. I might try putting a bit of silicone on the awl itself. See if that helps. But I'll definetly try switching around the needle and awl sizes to see if that helps. And tightening down the presser foot too. Thank you!

I applaud your skills Chuck but I do wish you guys would talk English. Wots a burb?

Don't order your rabbit food from Amazon, it's a scam. The other day I put in an order and almost as soon as I got it, they sent me an email wanting my feedback.

just the right size for two !! Dang that looks good. All ive been cooking is mud lol, but that is kinda fun too. I've been wrenchin on the Burb, getting it ready for the hunt and winter. It was missing and running like crap so i decided to give her a tune-up. The plugs were pretty worn so i replaced them but he darn distributor cap i dont think was ever replaced lol. The rotor button was completely worn down and the terminals had big gobs of carbon burnt to them. So i figured it solved the problem, it ran better but still was not right so i rebuilt the throttle body next and found a vacuum port completely plugged with mud and someone had tried to set the idle by drilling out the idle screw, which is factory sealed, that throws off the ECM which controls air gas mix and was the biggest problem with the way she ran and the hardest to find as that shouldnt happen. Adjusted that back to the original reset the downshift cable which was also set to short and not allowing full throtle or proper shifting. I also threw on a new muffler, when i cut it off i found the one on it was to small it had just been shoved inside the exhaust pipe and welded on 2 1/2" muffler on a 3" exhaust so it had too much back pressure. Damn thing runs like new now. My son bought this thing used then traded it to us It was running well then, or so i thought, so i just drove it for a few years lol. Now for the hard stuff, My daughter gave us another burb, same year so I'm switching out the radiator supports, then fixing the other burb for my son to drive as well as having an unlifted unmodded truck for the road and town driving. The days are getting short and the mornings brisk It won't be long until snow flies here. Take care my friend!! Chuck

Welcome, nice looking products on your website. Brgds Jonas

Welcome to the forum, Really nice looking tooling! Brgds Jonas

This was a female spaded English Bulldog about 60lbs. There seems to be more of the Bull "dogge" type dogs like the American and Olde English around then the English Bulldog. What appears to be creeping in is the unpredictability similar to Cocker madness and Springer rage. kgg