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Yep, for anyone who does full-time leatherwork a 2x72 (or 2x48) grinder is the only way to go if you want a grinder. For me this has the advantage that I can easily move it wherever I want so I can keep all the fine dust outside, something I can't do with my other belt grinders. I also have a small wheel attachment for the 2x48 and I intend modifying it so I can fit it to the little one, it should be great for getting into tight corners. Bruce, this one is a bit dearer than the others but it's far more versatile. The quality of mine is excellent, once I had it assembled it worked with no issues. I've mounted it to a slightly larger wooden base so I can clamp it down wherever I want, now I'm trying to figure out how to fit larger, stronger tool supports. Thanks for the belt info, problem is we can't always get the same stuff you can but I'm looking to see what's around.

Interesting timing, I ordered one this morning. Even with two 2x72 belt grinders and a 2x48 belt grinder, I still drag out my trusty 1x30 Harbor Freight pretty often. The HF has paid for itself many times over, but on it's last lap. I was going to replace it with another HF until I saw the variable speed option on the Vevor. I do like my variable speeds.... BTW for belts - Combat Abrasives, Red Label, and TruGrit all have a ton of options for 1x30 belts in grits ranging from iron munching flesh eaters to insanely fine grits. I get abrasive, conditioning, and leather stropping belts from a mix of all these folks.

It's actually called Protect All. It comes in a "spray" bottle, but it's really a loose paste.

Suspended Edge guides are the same as for Juki 563 / Singer 111w and similar machines. https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&sca_esv=9a662cfbafe167d5&q=Suspended+Edge+Guide+site:leatherworker.net&source=lnms&fbs=AIIjpHw2KGh6wpocn18KLjPMw8n5Yp8-1M0n6BD6JoVBP_K3fXXvA3S3XGyupmJLMg20um8wiXfIX1WBBCL40ceQNb1f_1RgkIjfpWjyi_Ry0tINHRC7VfioyuPPYs3t5QzRFCOThQJw2G3haEdB8Xf5VpajW4v6ZD1f9ayzixkbllMGhfyZ499gvQpomaFmqZmbpm9styOJPYAf6NRDYd7RbQ6wudZ0GA&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiW7pLuw4yRAxX8qP0HHd1qN8UQ0pQJegQIDRAB&biw=1600&bih=721&dpr=1 Other that that you can f.i. use presser feet with edge guides https://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_nkw=Edge+Guide+foot+singer+&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=Edge+Guide+foot&_osacat=0

If you do many belts . . . like me . . . you'll find you are changing that 30 inch rascal all too often. I still use both of the two I've got . . . but just as soon as I can get some of the junk work out of my hair . . . I'm going for a 2 x 72 inch knife grinder . . . with a bit less than 5 times the belt surface . . . I'm looking to get 5 times the use out of it . . . plus the 2 inches wide will do better than the 1 inch I'm now using. But I do like your rig . . . and if I did any real serious wood working . . . I'd be very much interested in one of those May God bless, Dwight

I guess with piping feet this can be sewn

After seeing one of these on Road Agent Leather's latest video I just had to get one! Although I have a couple of belt grinders this one looked ideal for leatherwork - it's fairly compact, portable, uses 1" x 30" belts and is variable speed. This one is sold by Vevor and the quality looks very good. It uses a sewing machine servo motor (550w) and a modified control box. It's got some grunt behind it, I pushed a piece of steel into the belt -hard - and it didn't slow down. Impressive. 4"contact wheel, platen and best of all it can be tilted horizontal. First thing to do is make a larger base for it and then make a longer tool rest which will be better when it's used horizontally.

This reminds me of a song here in Oz by Paul Kelly , " I've done all the dumb things" . and so have I . Not putting belt loops on a case , only realising AFTER I've assembled it , and lots of other pre-assemble mistooks and silly injuries HS

I split this off that 8 year old thread and into a new topic for you. Let's see if someone can help you out.

Hi is there a seam guide that can be attached to the Singer 153w102? Thanks Monica

Is there a way to machine sew molded cases like shown in the image? I have seen some recent discussions on special feet. I am guessing that with the proper foot I could sew close to the raised portion of the case, perhaps leaving more leather for the foot to walk on and then trimming after sewing. Any hints on how to do this and/or any special feet needed would be greatly appreciated!

BlackDragon, that looks like it might be a heavier duty version. Nice. A long time ago I bought a rechargeable scissor-type cutter set, I found it was excellent for cutting long strips of material for making patches for my muzzleloaders. Great for cloth material but no good for leather.

We don't have Aldi here but Lidl might have something similar in sometime I don't need one . . . . . but its another toy for the toy box so I'll probably buy one if they come my way

Yup, did that a few times last week. Not concentrating on what I was doing, talking too much

Looks like a 3 layer design. Flat backer, wet molded belly over a flat backing, a topper trimmed to the wet molded edges sewn down. That is my best guess.

I aquired this a couple years ago from an estate sale where I bought a few things. Honestly I've only used it a couple times. I'm not in a hurry and my knife works well enough. If I was cutting large amounts of thick leather I can see it being useful.

Be real lucky to sew 3/8"leather on this model,it is more suitable for vinyl & canvas than leather.

I was working on a prototype on Friday and did this three times in one row. Admittedly I was using thread thats to thick for the project. Just keep one keeping on.

Thank you!

I’m calling a Mulligan. Just pierced my thread on the first backstitch. Im going back to bed… Catch y’all on the flip side, — AZR

This is what I do. I use 1/4" (6mm) double sided tape, if you don't have thin tape you can cut wider tape down the center long ways.

Nice piece of work! I like the non-shiny finish.

That turned out nice! clean edges and good stitching.

The sample image is very grainy, but I'd say the edges look skived and rolled.

Finished up a phone holster, came up with a good idea by accident. Kinda put the logo a bit too high, didn't want the strap to cover it, so I flipped it over and secured it to the back. So now I have an "ejector strap" which works out kinda nice!