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What’s the best oil to use? I have a little unlabeled container that came with my Consew. But I know clue the brand or type. Is it just the 3in 1 oil? Also, thank you!

That’s funny right there 😂

A well oiled older industrial sewing machine is a lot like an old Harley. They also mark their spot!

That so cool to me. There are few machines in this world that last like well built sewing machines. Mr James, the man who gifted me this machine(and unknowingly had now adopted me haha) has some that his parents bought used when their leather shop opened before he was born and he’s 77!!! You hit so many good points thank you! I’m 100% a newbie to sewing machines. I have a brother I bought from Walmart and a Consew CN2053R-1 I bought last month. I thought it was perfect and it is a great machine, but won’t sew through some of the leather seems I need it to. Anyways… so when I’m looking for videos on how these are supposed to work and such, what do I call this machine? A Singer Clone? Better yet if I need to buy parts for it or whatever, what machine should reference to make sure the parts compatible? thank you so much for sharing!

I can definitely see the advantage of laser engraving letters on leather instead of trying to keep stamped letters straight, uniform, etc. Usually laser engraved leather that I've seen is burned/blackened on the bottom and I just don't like the look. Is the fact that yours isn't blackened just advancing technology and/or technique? I could see a laser in my work room if I can avoid Cajun blackened cow hide

I would forget about what the manual says about oiling locations until you are sure that everything is oiled properly. I would give it a good bath in synthetic oil to get oil in those bearings and all the places where metal rubs against metal and get any manufacturing debris out of the machine. I usually flood a new or new to me machine just to make sure there is oil everywhere and any garbage is gone. It can be messy but it is worth it in the end. kgg

Yes and no. It comes down to your particular situation. However I do agree with the cheaper 3D filament printers the filament can get clogged when the nozzle size is to small for the speed or the filament type or using cheap filament can be a problem particularly with printers that don't have monitoring or give you notification of problems. I rarely do overnight prints as I still don't like leaving 3D printers unattended just in case. In my case I just didn't want to deal with fluid. Very doubtful. This comes down to what type of 3D printer is being used and it's speed capabilities. That is the beauty of all 3D printers do your design, ship file to printer and go do something else. If you are using .stl you have to do another software step but if your printer is capable of accepting .step then it is just a straight export. I do totally agree when doing certain items like DnD figures a resin will give better print quality / detail but the gap is closing. kgg

I have two types: A) with a large wheel: the dimension according to my mic. Large Wheel: a) Center of screw to center of screw on arm is 1.435" ( 1 - 53/128", 35.9mm). b) Wheel Diameter is 1.236" ( 1 - 15/64", 31.4mm) Small Wheel: a) Center of screw to center of screw on arm is 1.435" ( 1 - 53/128", 35.9mm). b) Wheel Diameter is .8745" ( 7/8", 22.21mm) Body is the same, length is the same just the wheels are different diameters. kgg

I use my CO2 laser to make all kinds of acrylic stamps and templates for rifle slings, holsters, guitar straps, and belt templates. I have also done some for folding knife sheaths. Occasionally, i am asked to laser engrave knife handles, holsters, and sheaths which I can do on my CO2 laser. I recently got a Fiber / Diode laser which allows me to engrave metal. So now I have added the ability to laser engrave the blades as well as other metallic items.

What an honor my friend, it sounds like a great time indeed. Is anyone videoing it? It would be nice to see the work. It will also be a nice change of pace for you I'll bet. I had to laugh at myself, my tim the tool man brain said hey you have a treadmill motor it would make a great pottery wheel motor. So I get it out and get it wired back up, and I'm sitting there watching it turn slowly on setting 1 whicjh would be a good speed i imagine, i really have no idea lol, But it looks like i could keep up anyway i turn it up a notch still not bad so i kicks it into high 10 on the setting man that thing took off a good 1800 rpm and i got this image of clay flying around the room at lightning speed, kids and dogs runnign for cover, the wife yelling . LOL It was then i realizesd i have gotten to the point and age that i can kind of think through my decisions and see a bad outcome before it happens. So now i'm making a simple kickwheel with no motor... i still dont know what to do with the motor??? Life is good!!

lol Trial and error, and a book was all we had when I was first learning this stuff. But nowadays I do peruse YouTube just like everyone else. I've always studied art and creating things so this is just a part of that. If that makes sense?

yes, go to Walmart, they have a bunch hanging on the rack.

About £/$200. Its not hard to learn to use it. I think the resin gives a better print, less noticeable print lines, which don't matter at all for stamp making but I wanted it for printing DnD figures as well so a better sharpness was needed than I could get with the filament printers. Plus there are environment friendly resins, ie water based. Resin printers are safer than filament types. The filament type heats a coil of plastic and lays it down. If the plastic gets stuck it can overheat and start burning giving off toxic fumes and potentially setting fire to your building - it has happened. The resin does not need heating at all Takes the same time to print as a filament printer. But it prints your subject upside down by dipping in & out of a vat of resin. You don't know if the print is a success or has failed until the end when it finally raises the print clear of the vat The printing is very temperature sensitive. The printer, the resin and the room has to be at a constant 22* or more One thing more, Ppl are put off 3D printing because it 'takes 3 hours 45 minutes' (as an example) to print. Bu you are not sitting there very minute. You set it to print and go for lunch/make a belt/get a coffee hth

There is a break in period with them , I am sure the binding is in the upper pulley wheel .On the machine side of the upper pulley wheel you will notice an elliptical groove . the needle lifting arm ( the see-saw bit across the top) has a little bearing that sits in side the elliptical groove and this is what give the see-saw its motion thus lifting the needle . This usually needs a bit of time to bed in. You will probably notice the tightness occurs when the bearing is in a tighter radius in the groove . Some older singers still have that tight spot even after 30 years . Technically the machine is a singer clone in every way and should perform as one . They have not been around for that long so no one really knows how long they will last . My bet is at least a lifetime, where a singer might last 3 life times . I have 3 singers and one clone . the singers are well over 100 years and work perfectly 99% of the time . The clone is 3 years old and still a little tight but prefers a thicker thread than the singer . i ended up putting an original singer shuttle and bobbin in it and works better . I think the clone bobbin shuttles are not that good especially the tension spring on them . I think oil and putting it to work should sort it out

What does one of those run . . . and what is the learning curve?? May God bless, Dwight

I thought that hole was a necessary part of it.

By all means. It works great. The saw blade center hole didn't do much for it, though, unless you want to hang it up on a hook.

Welcome aboard. That's a very nice bonus. Best thing to do is read the manual (more than once) and get familiar with how it operates, watch the movement of the various parts and don't force anything if something feels like it's binding. Fun times ahead.

I am literally reading through the manual now well trying to. But it says specifically where to oil and stuff! one thing read said, it may just need a break in period? Like to run consistently for a while. Could it just be that ya think? This one has never really been used at all. It’s essential brand new, no one one just had time to mess with it. my biggest issue is I don’t know how it’s “supposed” to run. I’ve never used one in good working order haha

To find out what is binding up, you can turn the handwheel very slowly and pay attention to which part of the circle it binds at. Binding typically means something is trying to move farther than there is space to move. You can start taking inspection covers off to see the linkages that are at work. I've had a machine bind when it tried to lift the needle bar too high, and the needle bar ran into the head unit. Or when the latch opener tried to open wider than there was room for. Not sure what you'll find on this machine, but if you start exploring hopefully you can find some clues. While you're at it, you can oil the linkages 😀

Thank you! Im so excited! I think it will be a good one to learn sewing machine mechanics on too!

Maybe. this is the one I bought that is "too long". The arm from center of screw to center of screw is 1.5 in. The shank length on the machine is 1" Here's a pic of what I bought (that doesn't fit): I think a 1/4 in shorter would work

I bought a resin 3D printer mainly for the purpose of making stamps. Its a white elephant right now

There nowt wrong with that s/m. They work great and last a long time. Plenty of folks on here use them or the Chinese clones. Somebody will be along to help you

@SUP To misquote Julius Caesar, venerunt, viderunt, laboraverunt, They arrived at 07.30 and away by 14.50, Very much quicker than I thought, By several days! I might get things sorted by Tuesday and get back to this properly. But in the meantime I've got to knock-up a new belt for #1 son