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That sir, is a fine piece of work, good job.

Adult area - some things can't be unseen!

I would recommend not using suede, for the reason you mentioned, unless you have a really ugly flesh side you’re trying to hide. However I would still would say line it with a grain side out. As far as over lap I wouldn’t. If you use two pieces of veg tan leather your edge finishing should be able to hide the seam, or you can lace the edge like Alzilla said, using edge paint or Fiebing’s Edge-Kote to hide the seam if you’re like me and your burnishing is not tip top. Hope this helps.

I looked all over for a copy of Bob Park's book in an electronic format. I don't think there are any copies other than physical. You might also look around for a copy of "Sheridan Style Carving" by Bill Gardener. It is also excellent. Good luck!

Sounds like you're chickening out from trying it?

You did good!!! Opportunities like this don't come along too often. (P.s., I'm jealous).

You need to provide a lot more information: Where are you located? This is a world wide forum. I assume you are looking for a buyer from your area. According to your IP address you are in Texas. List a reasonable amount of what you actually have. A few photos would be helpful. What is the asking price in US$? Will you ship? Who pays shipping? See the marketplace rules here https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/70-announcements/

I'll fix the title in a few minutes.

Have you tried a search? Here is one for a 3 ring binder, you can modify the search parameters as you wish. https://leatherworker.net/forum/search/?&q="3 ring binder"&page=1&quick=1&search_and_or=or&sortby=relevancy

Let's move this to Off Topic. I'd use a firearm to kill a cow, skin it and tan the hide, then cut the strips I need. Unless your realm has a leather store like Tandy.

You could put a binding on the edges to hide and contain the interface between the liner and exterior. It's a folded over piece of your material of choice, folded over the edge and sewn. Pretty common on all sorts of things - clothes, gear, carpet and so on. You've seen it a million times. The rest of it, I don't have a clue.

My Consew's servo has a min of 400 rpm and I have the smaller pulley installed. If anything a needle positioner would be nice on this machine. As for the Claes I think I'll get a speed reducer to really slow it down. Yup, thanks for the correction on model number. For some reason I've been transposing the 3 and the 4 ever since I first read about this model. I can't find a way to change the title or I would... I'm sure you're right about boot soles. I don't really have any goals with the machine other than to be able to get into tight places for boot and backpack repairs. If it did soles that would be a bonus but not a deal breaker. Thanks for the link, that manual seems to be posted on a few websites. I also have a document with drawings of individual components but that one is in German. I've seen posts regarding a mechanics manual but I can't seem to find one posted online. Hopefully you're right on the adjustment. We'll see what everyone thinks after looking at the video. No worries on the sole work, just brainstorming what things I may attempt to repair. Yup, I think slowing the machine down to a crawl would beneficial than a positioner. It came with a couple dozen 88 needles, I didn't see any 81s in the batch. Here's the uploaded video. Along with the needle timing I'm also concerned about the horizontal play in the main shaft. You can hear it "clunk" into place every rotation. Here's the Youtube link, hopefully it's good enough:

I am currently designing a half-size binder, and am debating whether/how to line the inside. I am very new to leatherwork (I’ve made a wallet and few small items), and I haven’t lined anything before. A couple questions: Would suede be a reasonable option for the inside of a binder? There is a pocket, so would suede inside the pocket provide too much friction for the papers to slide in and out easily? I would like to avoid folding the edges over, but are there any other options to make clean edges when lining leather? If it’s necessary to fold the edges over, how much extra on each side should be left? Thank you in advance!

😅 I guess that is a sign that I need not worry about trying chicken fat on leather. I'm afraid I do not know much about ancient Ireland except for the fact that the society was more advanced and structured and much more respectful of women than society today. I always wondered why they allowed the Anglo Saxon hordes and their sanctimonious attitudes to overcome them. Anyway, I seem to be digressing from the main topic. I am planning to try the various water based conditioners. Sometimes I find that I need one which does not change the color of the leather. I know the Chemical Guys conditioner is good but am looking for others. I have found that with water based conditioners, I need to condition more frequently. Without an occlusive agent, the leather dries faster, I suspect. That is why, if I can condition a set with different water based conditioners, I can get an idea of how long each conditioner lasts before the specific piece of leather needs to be conditioned again My current set, with oils, waxes and fats are still fine and do not need to be treated again.

I'm82. Hands no good anymore. I've been making whips, bridles, horse gear, watch fobs....etc.... Tools, Leather, books, etc... For Sale. (no stamps or leather carving gear)

A bit of an unconventional topic for a forum like this, I'm just not sure whom else to ask than a bunch of leatherworkers. Preface: In DND, spellcasters (Wizards, Sorcerors, and Warlocks) use an Arcane Focus. An Arcane Focus is a special item to channel their magic, replacing the need for certain material components when casting spells. Spellbooks, hold spells to later access and utilize. Normally they are leather bound books of pages. Some spellbooks could use metal sheets in which spells are etched with acid. My character's "spellbook" was a staff with leather straps attached to a staff. Braided leather cord, leather straps with increasing length and width with spells engraved into them. That staff later replaced with a Scimitar when taking the Bladesinging subclass. Question: What would you use to gather the bundle of leather straps and braided cord? That could also be attached to the ring pommel of a scimitar? Apologies if this isn't posted in the right topic or if this isn't something people normally ask.

Thanks Chuck. I'm ok generally, just the old stuff like underactive thyroid/kidneys etc. This scan and that scan. Most of it I can handle in a breeze but probably because that throat cancer in 2000 left my throat like a mouse's EARhole, that camers down my throat was worse than a bitch. Afterward my BP went up to 257. Had to sit there till it went down but at least he said he didn't find anything too dramatic. As for my Millie, what a little soldier she was. Always drawing the short straw including Pyometra? when she was young. Couldn't watch the light going out of her eyes little by little any more. Was feeling guilty today because I found myself with extra time because I didn't have to look after her any more. I know most dog lovers go through this at one time or another but doesn't make it any easier does it. Thanks again Chuck. Appreciate it. Thanks Darren.

Thanks everyone. The papers and patterns and books are so beautiful. You can tell someone has looked through unused pattern envelops and not put the content back in tho, I am not sure how I'll find all the pieces but I plan to excavate and organize and mark down what I have. If there is anything I absolutely don't want I will list here and yes I will absolutely make sure these find there way to someone who loves them when I am finished !

Hello I am adding a synchronized binder to my DA669 and parts listed in the parts book have different size throat plates and presser feet for narrow vs wide binding but no specification as to what size narrow becomes wide. I'm mainly going to bind 1" raw edge. Thank you!

I do believe the ancients never used chicken fat of grease on their leather They had high quality tallow, goose grease, olive oil, nut oils to choose from The smell of rancid chicken is too powerful for even their noses A recent BBC news story (two days ago) that police closed an area of a park whilst forensics checked out a smell. Social Media reported a body had been found. Turned out to be a bag of chicken wings which had been dumped! Beeswax candles were very uncommon. In the 7th C (600s) a monk wrote to the pope seeking permission to import bees from north France into Ireland (Hibernia) as there were no bees there so he could not make candles In the 8th to 11th centuries Viking traders imported bees into Hibernia so they could make meade and sell the wax. They recorded that there were no bee hives in Hibernia

Are you certain you're using the right needles? A needle too short or too long can give you the illusion of being out of time. Might sound like a silly suggestion but sometimes could be the case? Just look over the mechanisms, you should be able to "see" what the problem is with a little careful analysis.

You need to tell if if you're willing to ship this thing, per the forum rules. Thanks

Great find! Some saddlemaking books are really hard to find and expensive, like @chuck123wapati says, some of the patterns aren't reproduced, so I'd also just keep it. If you find that there are patterns/books for something that you have zero interest in, you could always offer it up for sale at this forum. Brgds Jonas

WOW, yeah, you did good, don't throw anything away, some leather books are worth hundreds of dollars, plus many of the patterns are not reproduced anymore and are valuable. That pattern set for bike bags is awesome. this older information is priceless!!

Oh yes! I remember reading about it. Chandlers used to go around to different villages in their carts, making the yearly supply of beeswax candles for the churches and the wealthy. I do not remember which century or country though but it would have been in Europe. The East was completely different in every way. Is that the time when chicken fat would have been used on leathers? Has chicken fat even been used anywhere on leather, anyway? I wonder. Everywhere I read the same thing - It goes rancid fast! If people find rancid coconut oil unpleasant surely they would object to this too? Or, they did not mind the smell, in which case, I come back to my original suggestion that maybe their surrounding smells inured them to the smell of rancid chicken fat. I prefer to think that even if anyone tried, they would have been turned off by the rancidity and never used it again.