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Hey all, I have a somewhat hypothetical question about dying leather… Has anyone attempted to dye while the leather is still damp from casing? What were your results? I imagine it would be different results for water-based than oil-based, and while I have used water-based (Eco Flo), I usually work with Fiebing’s Pro. Right now, I’m staring at a sheath I just finished tooling, and I’m getting antsy to keep working, but it’s still relatively saturated (rookie move, still learning). Which is where my question comes. I’m still going to wait until it’s dry, but I was hoping to hear (and learn from) other people’s successes and failures on the subject. Still feels like my first rodeo, AZR

Thank you for responding .I took the needle plate and feed dogs off this morning and cleaned and oiled really good and got it back together and she's sewing perfect...Im pretty sure I had the needle plate in a little crooked .the screws were screwed but it's finicky about seating all the way down gotta kinda slide it in..pretty sure that was it..that is such a relief...and I feel so ignorant that it's something so petty...but thank you ..I'm sure you'll here from me again sometime.. 😁😁

Restarting this thread here... I've got one of these pullers on a Singer 107w3, and I need to replace the rubber roller (it's disintigrated and gone, but the metal bearing at the center is still on the shaft) - and I've got no idea how to source one of these. The roller's shaft is 7/16" and looks like it was 1 1/8" wide with something smaller than a 2" diameter. Any ideas where to look? The sewing supply companies with rollers I can find online don't list the dimensions of their rollers and can't tell me what the dimensions are when I call them...

i want to thank you both for replying to my post. i have always found valuable information and insight from those on Leatherworker.net, and it's so nice to be part of such a positive community of people!!! thank you !

For beginners just starting with leather crafting, choosing the first hot stamping machine can be confusing. With various models, features, and prices on the market, how do you pick the one that suits you best? This guide will help you quickly get started, avoid common pitfalls, and find the hot stamping machine that truly fits your needs. Question 1: What is a Hot Stamping Machine? A hot stamping machine is an essential tool in leather customization, widely used for embossing letters, gold stamping, silver stamping, branding, logo impressions, and more. For beginners, having a suitable hot stamping machine not only improves the professionalism of your work but also speeds up your learning process. Question 2: What’s the difference between manual and pneumatic hot stamping machines? Manual Hot Stamping Machine Operated by a hand lever to press, simple to use and compact, suitable for personal crafting and small batch customization. Pneumatic Hot Stamping Machine Uses compressed air to drive a cylinder for pressing, offering higher stability and efficiency, ideal for bulk production and precise control of temperature, pressure, and timing. Summary: If you’re a beginner or prefer a hands-on, personalized experience, a manual machine is more flexible; if you have stable orders or require consistent stamping quality, a pneumatic machine saves labor and improves efficiency. Question 3: Why is a manual leather hot stamping machine recommended for beginners? Lower learning curve and more intuitive operation Manual machines offer direct control, helping beginners build a sense for temperature, pressure, and timing. Pneumatic machines are more industrial and less beginner-friendly. Lower cost, less financial pressure Manual machines are more affordable and cheaper to maintain. Smaller footprint, suitable for studios or home use Compact structure and quieter operation fit small spaces. Upgradeable later, no need to buy top-end at once Beginners can start with manual machines and upgrade when they better understand their needs. Not all leather crafts require pneumatic machines Manual machines remain the main tool for personalized, small-batch leather crafting. Find the Hot Stamping Machine That Truly Fits You After understanding what a hot stamping machine is, it’s time to find the one that suits you. 1. Clarify Your Usage Needs Stamping content: Text, logo, or patterns? Different crafts require different heating uniformity and pressure. Material type: Vegetable-tanned leather, PU leather, or others? Different materials have different temperature sensitivities. Usage frequency: Occasional use or long-term investment? This decides your needs for machine stability and durability. 2. Key Parameters When Choosing a Manual Hot Stamping Machine Temperature control system: Prefer machines with digital temperature control for better stability. Stamping area: Choose a working platform size that fits your common leather sizes. Build quality: Cast iron bodies are more stable and durable, less prone to shaking. Accessory compatibility: Can it fit different font dies and logo brass molds? This affects future expandability. 3. Common Pitfalls to Avoid Chasing complex features blindly: Beginners don’t need laser positioning or automatic feeding. Focusing only on price, ignoring build quality: Cheap machines may have unstable temperature and uneven platforms. Ignoring after-sales and parts availability: Reliable manufacturers save you a lot of trouble. Summary: The key to choosing a hot stamping machine is to clearly understand your needs, combining stamping content, material type, and frequency, and then picking a suitable temperature control system and workspace. Good build quality and accessory compatibility ensure stability and future upgrades. Beginners should avoid chasing flashy features or cheap traps, and instead choose reliable brands with solid after-sales and parts support to make your stamping journey smoother and more efficient. Four Practical Questions to Ask the Seller Before Purchase Before buying, be sure to confirm these with the seller: Does the machine come with font dies or accessory dies? What is the temperature control range and accuracy? Is there a warranty? How long? Has the machine been tested before shipment? Can I see a sample machine video? Usage Tips and Precautions for Beginners Correct usage is just as important as choosing the right machine. Here are some practical tips: Practice your first stamping on scrap leather. Adjust temperature first, then pressure, and slowly find your ideal settings. Keep hand pressure stable during stamping, avoid shaking. Use different die depths and stamping times for different leather types. Regularly clean the heating head to prolong machine life. Conclusion Choosing your first leather hot stamping machine may seem complicated, but by mastering a few core points, it becomes easy. Understand your needs for stamping content, materials, and usage frequency, and pick a manual hot stamping machine that is easy to operate, precise in temperature control, and structurally stable — the ideal start for beginners. Don’t be misled by flashy functions or low prices; choosing a brand with good after-sales support will help you move forward worry-free. Pick up the machine, practice patiently, and you too can create professional-quality leather pieces and begin a rewarding creative journey.

I’m thrilled to share some exciting news with you all! Yes — I’ve spent an entire month collecting and organizing the most common questions about leather hot stamping, and I’ve put together a complete beginner-friendly roadmap to help anyone get started from scratch. If you’re new to leather crafting or still considering giving hot stamping a try, this preview is something you won’t want to miss! Over the next 19 weeks, I’ll be breaking down every essential aspect of leather stamping step by step: From choosing the right tools and materials, mastering basic techniques, to avoiding common mistakes and diving into more advanced tips — one topic per week to guide you on your stamping journey. Whether you’re picking up a tool for the very first time or looking to level up your leatherwork, this series will help you grow steadily and avoid the trial-and-error struggle. 📌 Feel free to comment below and let me know what you’d love to learn most — I’ll prioritize those topics in future posts. 📬 Weekly updates coming soon, so don’t forget to follow or bookmark this thread — let’s complete this 19-week journey together!

Hello! I am hoping to find someone to work with that can create my label/ logo to be sewn onto my mattresses. I am a new mattress manufacturer and I am building flippable all natural mattresses and want to continue that thru a leather label. I was thinking that it could be cut out of softer, more pliable leather and maybe use a branding iron to burn the logo in. I do have a file that has the shape cut around the logo. I am not sure how to make an attachment here but my website is Vintage-Mattress.com If anyone has any suggestions or know of someone that would like to work with me on this project I would greatly appreciate it! Thank you! Amy

You should try Old English which is still spoken in some NFLD. communities at speeds that would put an auctioneer to shame. Simple Example: "Come to he the once" in modern English it means--> I'll be right there.

Wow. If it's complete and in good condition, you stole it! Nice score.

you need to use a reducer to make it (Createx "transparent" paint ) transparent. White pigments don't have that ability. The only way to achieve transparency is to dilute the pigments, which means lower-quality paint. This is just acrylic paint with finer pigments and less viscosity, meant to be used in an airbrush. I use airbrush acrylics as well as regular artist's acrylics on leather with no problems. The only downside to painting on leather is the cracking issue in the case of this eagle pattern, that would be a non-issue as there is little flex in that area of the jacket. apply in light layers until you get the look you want.

If you're referring to the abovementioned Serafil 7766, I order my Serafil from https://www.emezzuhandbaghardware.com/en/Serafil-sewing-thread-No.40-7766?Product=442060891 They're based in the Netherlands though, so prepare for import duties (unless you can find a local supplier).

@hugh123 Just found this while searching ebay . It looks like it has potential but i don't know how compatible it is with a standard feed dog . I ordered one to experiment with. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/167507136396?_skw=roller+foot+for+singer+31K-20&itmmeta=01JWXCQJ4AGJVPYNWVW18KNB7V&hash=item2700340f8c:g:ldQAAOSwP9ZideG~&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cEIlHfb8sInkPmjL0p%2FgNQ4XNRdPNI1GJi9YJ2%2BiJnSpLXr%2FfmfFisNgsVgZbN367LwL9iJlX8j1qKvTZIwws4AnXkZGVjE3gKiNW5kOmW5Sp5RkXNueimLJ6w1KjggajzRI%2ByQEp4iZyzl%2BY3BR1Cd4levH6VmZJ5b6K34i2YchyzuzaUHze%2Bgfm2vSgZbisY6vDaEcLUibwhGn7VklrOP5rskMWcyUHIr9PUnAErYBrrnOrKNdP401UXFtwlFKEhj3%2FlVcJZKwX87HxSA67keTr2nzQ0g5aIFTbS10%2B9%2BijHvU6vG4hvSxLlV7f5CzA%3D|tkp%3ABFBMrKLerOdl

@hugh123 You are correct . there is no way to convert to a walking foot . However converting to a roller foot is easy . I have a roller foot on one of my machines that is not a conventional roller wheel but a flat foot with needle bearings built in . I got it on ebay a couple of years ago as an experiment and it works fine but its a bit hard to see whats going on underneath so i use it for a specific purpose which is doing french seams . From memory it bolted straight on with no foot height adjustments . below is the link . Feet are generally universal and will fit most generic machines https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/365600908899?_skw=roller+foot+for+singer+31K-20&itmmeta=01JWXCQJ49B77637G3JE4XYEEN&hash=item551f832663:g:7IYAAOSwhx5oI~hn&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1fCN2aP9mPAusXtjaGkljFugJUoWrdFrw4oueyVnNjUGkLMsqw2A6ARqmDzLoQ65%2B6VKZ5BpJTIWHqUr1gsAOKSLFs8TQ7CYKhMETxipEaei3vvBp2b%2F91N8AvpaCQMLo4Vt%2FACuoad%2B1uTF%2FZhtZZe4nyAKUA%2BakPAP8b4jzIepqj%2FPyMITWByc4pS5%2B7vzVZkJLYamjy3tohmqev4LqOx4N3YrFdOSZLuyKw7jk9yoBvIxS%2F6rUjcjTQfAKRfpHL7MYjwrt9WDEaUN7Bgm7pWJqhF0m4BK0OBfFbvFjZpDAE2byPoGcXJAFcLL9q2Opk%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6yi3qznZQ I also have converted another machine with a conventional roller foot. You will have to replace the feed dog as well as the roller and make a height adjustment to the foot bar . This foot however will not fit on the 31K-48 because it has a different needle clamp and the thread hook touches the roller when fully down . https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/354875933078?_skw=roller+foot+for+singer+31K-20&itmmeta=01JWXCQJ49JEFKG7SBTM0GYEDA&hash=item52a0410196:g:qDAAAOSwvsBkmk8w&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1e%2F5qCmG6xFw0AmKOEDIWLEe0meYXmfQ2BKpJtZ1P%2Bh48FCaYQZxULdwlEtyKbEMBeLpidUIA45OPgpgjVKM7yJB2L4LXfRmBZyQDRrRs5L67GNxP206vL3mdP1QxDH994bxrJCjnO%2FS1Jl%2BA2SE%2FAYNaXNlXFo1vdRbo%2BgC6k3D%2Fh79FmOJRI7H8SiRghTvt98TlD4e62mktu678ExQ%2Bbj%2F27xXANP%2B6RmhCZ4GgUeP3EeIlhQy0YPye%2BwjIuW7R7lER0emGv9yKVHvmY1ejsdzEz3LiHr4EZfaEYdfrV2SVnFAddYtRhsNJ26bgZMiEQ%3D|tkp%3ABFBMqqLerOdl Its up to you which one you think will suit your need better. If you do get the 31K-15 ,compare the bobbins and case with the 48 and you will see what i mean about difference .Its only a couple of millimeters but they are not interchangeable .

Ended up getting a cobra class 26 locally for $1000

Thanks so much! Thanks so much! Lol, yes, what a great movie and now we have lost the Legend.

Thank you @DieselTech I'll do that.

Hello, I have a vintage lv bucket back but the thread is coming loose. I'm based in the uk does anyone know where I can get the thread from to fix it ?

@Tastech thank you for the help. Another question now. Shortly after purchasing, a 31k15 has now popped up for sale. Is there any real point to having both? I read somewhere that the 15 can run a slightly longer stitch? It is a presser foot not walking foot or roller. How hard is it to convert it to a roller feed? Is it my understanding that you can’t convert to walking foot.

Adjust the lifted height of the feed dog so that at lease 1/3rd of the height of the teeth are above the level of the throat plate. More is better than less protrusion. Make sure that when you lower the presser foot lifter, the outside foot goes all the way down and the inside foot makes hard contact with the feed dog as they alternate. If they don't go all the way down, add more pressure via the pressure screw and oil the presser foot shaft on top, and inside the head. These parts can hang in the raised position with age, wear and misalignment.

Go with the first pic where the bobbin thread makes are sharp turn to force it under the tension spring. After pulling it under the spring, feed it through the hole above the spring, then through the hole in the bobbin mounting shaft. Skipped stitches can happen if the foot pressure it too light, or if the hook timing is too early or late, or if the needle isn't installed all the way up in the clamp, with the rib facing to the left and the scarf facing due right, or if the needle clamp is adjusted too far to the left side of the hole in the throat plate, or if the paddle shaped spring in the needlebar is worn out, gouged, bent, or broken. Skipped stitches can also occur when the needle is too small for the thread combination and leather density. Cement or leather basting tape may cause skipped stitches if the eye of the needle gets fouled and gummed up.

Look up jewelers files.

It could be 2 things . I don't have one of these machines so i am making some assumptions based on a Singer 29K. First the timing could be out . This is where the hook on the bobbin case is not picking up the top tread . It's hard to explain but easy to fix . I would check that first then proceed to the second likely cause which is the needle adjustment (left to right ) is not in the ideal position . Again an easy fix which is easier to explain . It could be a combination of both . I will leave it to someone who has one and knows more about the machine to either correct me or agree with me . I would expect @Wizcrafts to chime in and give you the lowdown on the method of adjustments . I have a question of my own .Why is it that only Americans have the hand wheel attached to the side of the machine and not the front ? from my experience this is most unpractical.

i have searched the internet for answers but have come up empty handed. i hate to bother anyone for what is probably so simple for the expert. it boggles my brain.. i have a singer 111w155 and for some unknown reason it wont feed any kind of fabric or leather. i di have the feed dogs off to use a binder that had a custom made feed dogs and needle plate to be able to use the binder. i didn't actually use the binder as the binding tape was way to narrow ss i removed everything and replaced the originals. i have not adjusted or tampered with anything else I've looked and looked at every visible part but not actually turned a screw. i am at my wits end as i have a couple jobs coming in this week and this is my only machine.. please help I'm on the verge of bawling

I think your edit window closed. I added it to your post. Thanks.