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Oh, heck yeah, that would be super simple and cool as heck. With a decent band saw, you could stack and cut several at a time.

I've heard some folks use that metal or hard plastic pallet strapping band stuff, but I have never used it. Never even made one with a stiffener, does it run the whole length or just to the holes?

practice and hard work. You would be surprised at what some folks can do.

I don't know for sure if this will work so I will just throw this out there. If for some reason it doesn't meet your needs I would really like to know about it. https://springfieldleather.com/products/bontex-bag-stiffener?_pos=1&_psq=stif&_ss=e&_v=1.0#:~:text=Type: Bag StiffenerMaterial: BontexSheet Size: 40" x 60"Thickness Options: .015"%2C .02"%2C .03"%2C .04"%2C .05"Note: Sheet size may vary slightly. Current stock of .04" is BLACK. I have a carry belt with something like this sandwiched between the leather in three areas, It doesn't run continuously through the whole length, just where a holster is likely to ride on the belt. Left side, right side and in the small of the back areas. The belt has held up exceptionally well for years now.

That's what I'm thinking, but don't have all the details.

Thank you!

Maybe some variation on that hot foil stamping thing we see on here?

I need to build a concealed carry belt with a stiffener sandwiched in the middle. I have a Nexbelt that I am going to use the ratchet buckle from but need a stiffener. I was planning on using two pieces of 4/5 or 5/6 oz leather which ever keeps it from getting to thick. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Does anyone know how this paint is done? I don't believe for a second this is hand painted.

Hi. I may be able to help on this one. I don't have a manual, but I have a husqvarna/viking 262, which visually looks exactly the same. As far as I know at this point the only difference is the needle system used. As said, I don't have a manual, but I've tinkered a lot with mine. Martin.

This looks promising! The section for screws starts on page 61. The sections for singer screws (page 80-) and union special screws (page 89-) are the most informative, as they tell you which tap is required.

Did you get your knee lifter working?

That one is very, very cool. A version that would fit on a ball cap would be just the ticket. Maybe on an oval.

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Congrats. It's always gratifying to get them sewing again.

I have tried looking for Singer class 7. Also tried College sewing. They show a picture of a Class 7 to click on for parts but when I click it comes up NO parts for it.

Completed it today, I like this leather for both tooling and cost as it will allow bigger pieces due to the cost of leather.

If you took some 1/2" plywood, and laminated a horse head. The laminations should be placed like the head of the horse was split vertically lengthwise. (Terrible description) Each layer is simply glued and tacked to the next layer. Finally you make two ears from some leather and screw them on the top. Sawing out the laminations would probably require a scrollsaw or a small band saw. The first build will probably take a long time since you have to make patterns for all the laminations, but the next ones should be copy-paste and fairly fast to do. This is the best picture I can find to explain what I mean. Your horse head will need to be bigger and more detailed, with an open mouth etc, but the same basic idea. It will be clear to people what it is, but it won't be so detailed that it will take the focus from the head gear that you have on display. I am at sea right now, other wise I would be tempted to make an experiment myself 🙂 Brgds Jonas

Machinery's Handbook was a must have before the 'net, I still have one, a lovely little book. It's amazing how much information was crammed into a "small" book.

wel with the help of a manual on pdf i started working out the tensions below and above and she sews. the upper threat and the bottom thread. i tried opening up the stitch lenght and she got messy real quick. so i kept tweeking the tension and slowly its getting better. so im gonna go for the bigger stitch length and set her up for that. so i can atleast sew the basic stuff and not mess with it to much. so my next step is putting on the smaller pulley. but geusse what. the axle is conical. and the new pully aint. even a tiny bit bigger so it slides over the entire shaft. so im gonna dril a hole in the axle and make a stop with a ring on it. put the pulley against that. and im gonna make a special filler ring to fit over the conical part and stabilize the pully so it turns perfectly straight and not woble or anything. but im happy she is sewing. also gonna laminate the table with a cheap top so it looks nice and works smooth. eventually clean up the frame and paint it and all. but first she has to make some money before she gets more love 😁

thanks man you helped me out big time. i printed the last part of the pdf. and started working those tips and it worked. she is sewing.

Hi Jim, Thanks for the nice comment, and also an interesting suggestion. In theory it shouldn't matter much to me - but in reality, I think it is very interesting. I think I'll try to ask my customer next time I see her, if she knows anything about the former owner. But I kind of doubt it. Otherwise I think she would have said something when we discussed the job. Brgds Jonas

Excellent workmanship!!!!!

Adler 20 And Singer 7 are "quite equal" if that helps... A modern variant of the Singer 7 is the SEIKO SLH-2B (kind of) https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/parts-by-machine/seiko-sewing-machine-parts/seiko-slh-2b-2b-1-2b-fh1-parts.html?p=2

Chuck123wapati, FrankHester, JSage, Skinknife . . . thanks everyone for the kind words. Yeah . . . he's one of the last of the good guys . . . He's never failed to help out when he could . . . I first knew his grandfather . . . then his dad . . . now him . . . and both of his kids . . . as well as his 3 grandsons. It has been one fun trip May God bless, Dwight