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Progress! Looking at manuals for the 144W102 and 144W103, most things seem to match up with the machine that I have. The one exception is the stitch length and reverse feed. Referring to the manuals for the 102 and 103 from @CowboyBobs comments in this thread: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/110183-singer-145w-mystery/ , the 102 has a spindle at the center of the machine pulley for adjusting stitch length, and the 103 says to adjust the feed eccentric to get different stitch length. Here's a photo of the large crescent-shaped stitch length adjuster / reverse on this machine. The spring pulls the arm toward the top, where it makes long forward stitches. Pull the lever down somewhat, and you get shorter stitches. Down all the way and you get reverse. Seems it would be well-suited to a foot lever, if all you wanted was full length forward and full length reverse.

How do I figure out how it was tanned? Or would it just be smarter to buy it new so I know what it is?

Well, then you have guys like me that just enjoy working with their hands. I picked up the hobby accidentally while I was on a forced 2 week vacation due to a certain virus. I was only sick for 24 hours and slept for most of it. After that I was bored so I fired up the forge and made knives for my nieces and nephews and needed to make sheath for them. A few youtube videos later and some Amazon stuff ordered and I am making things because I enjoy the hobby, not for profit, dog collars with the dogs name, address, and phone numbers, a belt i wear daily, a few holsters, learning to carve and stamp and ended up making some craters with carved flowers for my mom's birthday. Yeah the OP could have checked back in but with each post the experienced people are adding to the knowledge base ys new guys rely on to learn from.

There are times I have to do suspenders . . . hate em . . . but whatever. I took some of my shirts with tails on em . . . laid em down and cut the tails off square . . . put a hem in em . . . and wear em Hawaiian style . . . suspenders inside over my tee shirt. Works pretty good for me May God bless, Dwight

Sorry, I must have imagined it. I could not find the timing video either. But, Uwe Grosse has some on Youtube that are informative, and there is a Weaver video that offers good information on a 205. One problem I had when I first got my 205 was that I had to order two extra shims to fit behind the collar on the bobbin to accommodate 346 size thread. There was certainly a learning curve between the Adler and a clone 205. Good luck.

in addition to my last post: Just in case you think the 29K71 (or other patcher machine - no matter the brand) is a great heavy duty leather sewing machine ... it clearly is NOT! Its is a machine for repair work but not for producing leather goods. It may work for odds and ends in your privat environment but not for pro leather work or for producing goods you probably want so sell. I´m barely using mine but if you need it for "odd work" then it is indispemnseable - it can do work that other machines can´t do.

thats very nice. I love those old floral patterns that Tandy has in their library.

oh heck yea!!

Very nicely done! Not to hijack your thread but here is one that I did for a Chrome book recently. It has a pocket on the front for possibles

1. If its veg tan leather you are molding it will hold its shape 2. Several coats of thinned water resistant PVA glue, or varnish 3. Try bees wax, rubbed in, it will protect the edge, not turn it too dark

I think veg tan leather would be best for what you're doing, 5 min epoxy inside the beak, cut the beak to shape, so when you fold it's in the shape you want, then stitch under or mold it on a form, Ie, a piece of wood. Then paint the inside after it's dry with 5-minute epoxy , then paint the outside with Acrylic paint, as Chuck said, good luck and have fun!

Hello All, Just wated to say thank you for your advice. I got my rotary cutter yesterday and it's made a big difference. Best regards to you all.

Without knowing exactly what yoU are attempting. You may have to experiment with a few beaks to find the best way to sew it on but yea it should work fine, I've seen leather used on toys and such before that were designed for rough handling. Resolene will stiffen it, or you can use acrylic floor wax also in place of the resolene if you have it on hand. I dilute the floor wax a bit with water. they will both darken the leather. so do some experimenting to see if it looks right to you. Acrylic paints work well on leather. A lot of folks also make earrings from leather scraps Good luck and have fun!!!!

Yeah this isnt a small burner, My forge burners have a .030 size orifice, actually a mig welding tip, with the forced air on at 10 psi they can melt steel. They can run both naturally aspirated and with forced air. Higher-pressure burners are scary loud indeed.

Hi Everyone! I'm hoping for some input on an idea. I primarily work with yarns, threads and woven fabrics. Most of my materials are recycled from other artists and crafters. Now and then I get some leather scraps but until now haven't really had an idea of what to do with the leather. I know nothing about working with leather other than the tiny bit I've learned from a few day's worth of Googling and Youtube. I'm not even sure if the idea of using random scraps for this is a good idea or that the idea is sound but I should use ___________ leather for consistent results. I'm hoping to make a series of small duckies and would like to use the leather for beaks. I'm cutting a single layer of leather into an oval about 1.5" long by about 1/2" wide. I'm wet forming it to shape, folding it in half and sewing it onto the duck in and around the fold. The leather I'm playing with is about 1mm thick and very flexible. I have three questions that I'm hoping you could help me with... 1. Does this sound like something that would hold it's shaping or will it eventually sag and just hang down the front of the duck's face? It's an art piece and not a toy so while it will get some handling, it hopefully won't be rough handling. 2. Is there something I could put on this small of a piece of leather to 'stiffen' or harden it after the wet shaping? 3. How would you treat the edges? I'm able to sand the edges some, but that's about it. I'm thinking paint or dye? I tried using a bit of clear Elmer's glue. Seems like an option. It does make the edge darker than the surface. I kinda like but wish it wasn't so shiny. Would the glue be somehow "bad" for the leather long-term or is there something better to use, that could be purchased in small quantities? Thank you for reading this far and I truly appreciate any suggestions that you could give me. 1 comment Like Comment Share

Appreciate your comments and the help you provide to many here.

Thanks Johanna, it is appreciated.

I'm not a moderator just your average joe user and probably a pain in the butt at times. I wholeheartedly appreciate the work and effort that all the moderators do to help keep the rest of us on track and this forum running. You really need to rethink what you said and your tone. It really doesn't do you any favours and may come back to haunt you in the future should you decide to stay when you do need help. Have a nice day. kgg

@Northmount You have unselfishly helped lots of people over the years. If I could figure out how to put a gold crown over your name, I would.

Many burners work at about 1 psi or less. I did work on a potato granule (instant smashed potatoes) dryer that operated at 50 psi burner supply pressure on a 2" pipe. Huge fan and dryer/separator. It sent the granules up a chute to the next level. Had to wear hearing protection around it. You could walk around in the dryer (when shut down). Never saw Shadrach, Meshach, and Abednego though.

@Redhorse64 Being a moderator on this site is all volunteer work, no pay, just the satisfaction of being able to help others. Too much crap really shifts how we feel about continuing to support and help others.

Since I had no knowledge of what instruction manual you had, I offered you what I found. If you don't like it, that is your problem, not mine. I'm not a sewing machine specialist and was trying to give you a leg up until someone else could come along with more help than I can provide. Members of this site need to follow some fairly standard practices and etiquette that are common across many user forums. If you want the support and help from members of any forum, you need to get people on your side, not blow off steam and post in threads that don't apply directly to your machine. If you want to leave, that is just fine. However, you can not delete posts, nor can you edit posts after the edit window time has closed. As you replied to me, I assume sarcastically, I truly hope you have a better day today. I expected better from one Albertan to another, but so be it.

This is one that I spoke of . . . works well from 1:00 . . . around to almost 5:00 . . . Plus it protects my "baby" . . . May God bless, Dwight

The pics I've seen of these in use shows them on the side at 3:00 ish. I've carried at 12:00 quite nicely with things like a Glock 33 and down. But now that I've gone to suspenders I have to tuck my shirt in. Definitely don't like "tuckable" iwb. So, I'm looking around. I'm trying to imagine suspenders that attach at the side and incorporate a holster.

WOW, thanks for your help, as I said, the manual is unclear, and then you post the same manual I have. I wasn't looking for a lesson from you about how to post, I was looking for help. Ill take my comment down and try somewhere else. Have a nice day.