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I've been ordering belts from amazon. Here is an example: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Classic-Wrapped-Outside-Circumference/dp/B0DR767RWV You can also get them in white: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BK1FQHRR Other options include adding a wooden block between the table and the motor (a spacer) so you can use the longer belt. This may require longer bolts though. Or 3D printing a larger machine pulley, which has the added benefit of slowing it down and increasing torque. Lots of folks have swapped clutch motors to servo motors. Any particular questions you have about the swap?

How are you and the machine doing? You mentioned a tension issue. Once you start holding the top thread when you start a seam, if there are still loops on the bottom then you need to add more top tension. I should have mentioned that before.

I'm about to attempt the same thing - may I ask, what thread did you use and do you recall the brand/color of pigskin? I was going to try kangaroo for strength and try to get the color to match but best to go with the original. thanks for posting!

It seems to me that the internet is full of "experts" on nearly every subject these days. JM2C, Jim

The sept/Oct issue of the learher crafter's journal had this neat little sheath by Gabor Pinter. I thought I'd have a go at it.

Does anyone know what this black material is, and where to buy it? I'm making a couple dozen briefcase inserts, and I need some kind of backing for stitching pockets. The ones the customer has today have a black backing shown here, that feels like it has an almost plastic feel to it. This is the sample they gave me, and I'm supposed to make something similar. I've tried bookbinder board but it needs another backer behind the backer - like leather scrap. So that's extra cost to glue a strip of leather to the book board, and extra work. It's also not ideal in case someone drops a drink on it. Thanks!

Hi everyone. I'm new to the landis 3. Just got one last week. I'm trying to stitch some harness traces that are about 5/8" thick. I want to move the presser foot up in height a bit. Does anyone here know how to do that? I have a manual and it makes no sense to me. I've gone over it so many time now my brain hurts. I simply can see anywhere on here for adjustment. Thanks for any help on this. Brian Merrick

Interesting. I thought dog fanciers are a friendlier bunch. Perhaps it’s a sign of the times.

Here are the dimensions of the new CS Osborne #151 bag/slot/oblong punches.

There was discussion recently which included talk about large oval punches for holsters I can't remember where it was or by whom, but if I find it I'll post a link edit; check this thread out

I moved your post to leather sewing machines

I moved your post to leather sewing machines

I know nothing about horse related items other then to say the workmanship is very nicely done. I see the same type of "cranky" comments about prong collars for dogs. kgg

I usually make bridles with a simple cavesson noseband - a continuous strap of leather and the buckle off center under the chin. This bridle has a Swedish or crank style noseband that evokes strong opinions. The crank is two-piece construction with a padded strap that can generate some leverage when tightening the noseband. Proponents say that the crank style provides flexibility and even pressure under the jaw. Critics note that the crank lends itself to overtightening, causing discomfort. The name "crank" is a rather unfortunate choice. I posted the bridle on social media and sure enough some of the comments were "cranky." Maybe there's no such thing as bad publicity? I enjoyed making this noseband but the construction takes considerably longer than a simple cavesson. At least I have the ability if someone asks for one.

Very little MDF contains formaldehyde noawadays. Exterior grade MDF has less than 1% and unless its been sitting for over a decade, the remaining 3 grades should be formaldehyde free. Dont know if what he got was neoprene or rubber, but the gym matting @dikman mentioned leads me to my suggestion of conveyor belting, or skirting rubber Its a bit on the pricier side but its usually a natural gum rubber and extremely durable, and dulls abpot the same as the delrin/poly cutting boards.

Yes AND you can cuss out your leather all day long without repercussions.

I've lengthened plain belts with this method, but not belts with names centered in the back. Won't this throw that off a bit, or does it matter? You did a great job of itt!!

People are WAY harder to deal with than leather! JM2C, Jim

Looking to further tighten up details on leather holsters I build. I'm getting by currently with a round punch and a slightly too narrow oblong punch but would like to do this in one or two hammer blows. I normally build holsters matched with either a 1/4" or 5 1/16" belt. Could someone direct me to a good quality punch that will make the slots the size I need in one pass? I've looked at Osborns but haven't been able to determine the width of the slot they cut. I expect to pay a premium price so long as the punch is great quality. Thanks.

Agreed. I normally have them bring an old one to my shop or have them send pics of the belt with the tape measure on it. This would be good for modifying existing belts though. So far, I have only modified them to make it shorter, not longer. This would be a way to do it.

My take away is never ever trust someone else's measurements unless you get in writing and tell them if it is to short or long it's on them. Otherwise it is just too much wasted time / effort/ leather particularly something personalized or tooled should it go south. kgg

@Tastech Thanks for that, yes that is a great machine and very much like the ones pictured in my comment. I am really interested to learn who created the design for that type of machine and when

If you moved the hook to the left you "might" have too little clearance between the tab on the hook base & the cutout underneath the needle plate,you can either open up the cutout on the needle plate or move it slightly to the right.

I would go to your local hardware / auto store and see what they have. If the new one is to short / long exchange it for another. kgg

Just to add to this. @girlscout4 1. The needle has to be installed so the Groove (long channel on the shank) on the needle is to the left and the Scarf ( indentation / cutout ) on the right hand side as you look at it when sitting in front of the machine ready to sew. 2. You need to use a 135 x 16 x # needle for sewing leather. I think you maybe using a 135 x 17 x # needle which are made for fabric and will give you blowout on the underside. 3. You never said what size of thread and needle you are using. What size??? 4. A good thread to needle size chart can be found here ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) kgg