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Kudos and bonus points to @NerdyLeather. Definitely got my eye out for a hard copy. Is that longer than a regular 8.5x11 sheet? I'm just wondering if an office supply type place might be able to scan a pdf? I'd certainly chip in to cover the cost.

Now for the stranger thing. I bought one in a set a few months ago- the first I had actually seen. I asked a guy at the Sheridan leather show if he'd seen them or used one before. He bought it. There is a glimmer of hope more than one made it to the US. However, there are other versions made here in the US that are available.

@David Hall, my friend, that is a 15 year old post, the original poster hasn't been seen since 2013 and the website he lists is defunct! Stranger things have happened but I wouldn't get my hopes up!

Ya, I just bought one of those iron sets off amazon for now. I found one size in there I like. They're pretty sharp. Can't complain about them right now. I'm sure if I get to using it more, I'll have to start sharpening.

Second time is a charm LOL. If you ever get large lumps of fresh meat, age them them about a week in the fridge before freezing them, it helps a bunch. A favorite cut of cheap beef we like is the London broil, its basically just a really thick chuck steak and usually are tough as nails. To actually enjoy eating them I sprinkle them with Accent, meat tenderizer, then use a fork to tenderize them working the accent into the meat. A good sprinkling of salt and pepper then broil them about 7 minutes to the side, and let them set for about 5 minutes before cutting. they come out medium rare but the real secret is slicing it super thin at an angle across the grain of the meat. so you would cut the steak at about a 45 degree angle. I went fishing yesterday at the world-famous Miracle Mile, its about an hour's drive. This time of year its about five miles long lol the lake is way down. we caught a few fish and they are going into some brine today for smoking its still a bit warm but if i start early in the morning it may work out. Here are a few pics of the place, San Pedro Mountains. ever hear of the San Pedro mummy? the mile from the bridge doesn't look very spectacular, wild rocky mountain bighorn ewe, we had to stop to let them cross the road lol.

That is very nice of you @NerdyLeather. It must have taken you so long to do it. Thank you. Thanks for converting it into pdf form @Johanna

Ahh. That makes sense. Putting it in the correct position would have validated the use of the ruler though. Surprised they did not think of that.

Thank you.

you probaly have chosen a short stitch lenght or the bell crank lever is worn down (or both). Maybe teeth on the presser foot are dull / worn down. Also theck if the "gib" on the stitch lenght adjuster is installed correctly. See pictures here:

Hi! I fixed the tab and I will post pictures but It still doesn't take back the fabric, I tried with two layer of leather and also with only one but it still has this issue. Also I don't know if it has to be like this but the tab moves if I push up the bar with my finger. I don't know if it's also part of the problem but even if it was screwed in the previous position that was incorrect, the tab moved free as I moved with my finger. Also the presser foot is up in the photos.

Yep, and if you want to cut out multiple items a die will be far more efficient. My 10w cuts leather ok but 'tis a wee bit slow. I'd like a bigger (better) one but the pre-built units, in an enclosure, are for me prohibitively expensive. Anyhow, I've been spending much time (including with Lego ) trying to figure out the best method of getting suitable leverage for the bending end of the jig. I've discarded several ideas (I really wanted to use a cam arrangement but I don't have any steel big/thick enough to make a cam) and think I've got one that should work. I was going to make the handle upright and push forward but looking at a commercial unit they have the handle sticking out the back and you push down, which looks like it might be more comfortable,. Tomorrow looks like welding day.

You're quite right, of course, Dwight, but playing Devil's Advocate here, once someone has a clicker die and some means of applying the needed pressure then it's very quick to cut out multiple pieces and you don't even need any power (or computer) to do so. And not everyone wants to mess around with lasers and such, which is precisely why a colleague is teaching himself how to make dies. Me, I've got all that computer stuff, 3D printer, laser and small cnc engraver, but I'm currently getting a headache trying to build a die bending thingy. The only reason is 'cos I haven't got one and want to prove to myself that I can make dies. It's a problem I have, once I get an idea into my brain........ But for getting a design out fairly quickly yeah, your method is great.

What is the price and the preferred payment method

US Naval Leathercraft Manual - Leather History - Leatherworker.net.pdf I turned this thread into a pdf for those of you who are on limited connections, or want to review it offline.

That's cool! Thanks for posting it!

I use my Laser Engraver for logos. It won't cut leather efficiently. When I use it I have to leave the room and it's not quick. I know you can buy more powerful Lasers with cabinets that will cut leather but what the cost of those is I have no idea. I do know that whilst you're cutting one I can cut five with these.

This is what we had before Al Stohlman and later, the internet. Thanks for sharing. This brings back some old memories of how little we had before the Reis family bought the Leathercrafters and Saddlers Journal, before the IFoLG. One of the oldest tradecrafts in the world, and it almost died out quietly, except for us diehard enthusiasts.

Toxo . . . go to the other thread about clicker dies and no press . . . find my post on page two . . . lots of good ideas for you there. Long and short . . . you can make something much better than a clicker die on your computer . . . which will do a better job as well. I have done both. May God bless, Dwight

Answers in no particular order (), a fellow member of my shooting club also dabbles in leatherwork (I think I got him started!) and has found a source of die rule, although only in 1 metre lengths - but it aint cheap! Nor will the postage be! You are right, by the way, about getting things here, it's not like the US!! The banding steel I've got is high tensile and if I use the method of making the shape out of wood (backing block) and screwing the steel band to it I'm pretty sure it will stand up to the pressure of the press. Case hardening, an interesting idea but the steel band is factory coated to resist corrosion and it could be difficult to remove, also heating the thin steel to the necessary temperature is likely to deform the shape once made. Forges, I have a coke and a gas forge so heating it is no problem and I have several different size anvils, rather the problem is how thin it is (0.7 mm), I've managed to burn/melt much thicker stuff in the coke forge!! If the info I found is correct (and I think it is) the banding steel has 0.2% carbon, 1.2% manganese and a small amount of sulphur. So tough, ductile but can't be hardened, and it's very springy. Anyhow, I appreciate you taking the time to think of possible solutions.

Let me ride this rodeo out of town . . . and start a new one. You obviously have a computer . . . and if you have ANY photo program . . . you can take a photo of ANY SHAPE you want . . . fill in the shape with black . . . and go to your 300 dollar 10 watt laser engraver. It may take two 30 second passes to cut out your shape . . . but it will cut up to 8 oz in two passes. The neat part is you never EVER have to get another clicker die. They are a thing of the past with a laser engraver. I use mine to cut small stuff any time I want an EXACT shape . . . the engraver and Adobe Photoshop Elements 2.0 (5 dollar program on Ebay) . . . are all I need. My bed is about 14 inches by 14 inches . . . so I can cut anything that size . . . and as many exact copies I want providing I have the leather. You do have to rig up a fan to take the burnt leather stink away . . . but that is the worst . . . and it is not hard at all. AND THE BEST PART . . . When you get done with cutting stuff out with the laser engraver . . . you can then waste a couple days . . . and as much corrugated brown cardboard as you can scrounge up . . . learning how to do roses . . . buildings . . . automobiles . . . horses . . . any shape you want . . . for any drawing you want . . . on your laser engraver. The cardboard mimics leather fairly well . . . so you can get a good idea of your settings needed . . . then do a small check piece of leather . . . then do a large picture or drawing or whatever your heart desires. If you really take your time . . . you can do photographs . . . army patches . . . custom book marks . . . billfolds . . . purses . . . and if you let your daughter play with it for a while . . . she might teach your wife how to use it . . . they can make the decorated front of the purses . . . you can do the rest . . . and you have a whole brand new product line. Or you can just put names on the key fobs . . . that'll work too. May God bless, Dwight

You bet! Hoyer is a big manufacturer of medical transport devices and I think first made the patient lift, hence the name. Now this is showing off... how I got in and out of my truck! Hey, when you're 70, 250lbs feels like 500!

Thanks for your opinion JLS. I have to agree, I think 6spi is excellent for most holsters. I am regretting spending so much money on the 5spi irons. Should have tried some cheap 5spi irons first. Live and learn! Love that brown holster you are showing there.

That had to take a long time to post and I’m sure everyone here appreciates it! I wish I could get a copy of that book, wow!😃

I second the notion that the best water repellency you can get is with Resolene (or Mop & Glo cut 50/50 with water). This is an acrylic film layered on your leather. It can be damaged and it is not 100% water proof forever but it is far better than any other top coat for this purpose.