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You can make headstalls out of all the leathers you referenced. There are many different types of headstalls. Tooled, untooled, lined unlined, wide, narrow, single ear, split ear, western, English, browband with throat latch and multiple variations of all of them. The leather you choose can depend what type you want to make.
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Thank you. Looks uncomfortable but I have never worn one that way, always worn one on the outside. kgg
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I don't have experience making headstalls, but a Google search of this site using the syntax "site leatherworker.net headstall" turned up quite a bit of information. Seems folks use bridle, harness, and latigo for headstalls and some recommend doubling the leather or lining with latigo. I've been very happy with Hermann Oak bridle, harness and latigo leathers for making tack. Their bridle leather has a firmer hand than the bridle I ordered from Wickett & Craig. Beiler's Manufacturing in Ronks PA sells HO bridle and harness leathers at good prices, and a variety of unnamed bridle, harness, and latigo leathers that I haven't tried. I've been very happy with the quality of Beiler's merchandise and their service. No website - call for a catalog. There are a number of other retailers that sell HO leather and many are listed on the website of the Hermann Oak Leather Co. You can buy directly from the tannery if you order a roll (5 sides) or if you're purchasing item(s) that aren't stocked by their retailers. For example, I buy sides of chocolate harness leather in "rein selection" (big cow size) directly from the tannery. They fill orders (finish the hides) as they are received and that takes 5-8 weeks in my experience.
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Hi I'm wanting to make a couple of headstalls for some friends. And I'm wondering what everyone likes to use for leather Bridle, Harness, Latigo,lined or not lined,what oz and where you usually order it from? They are going to really get used so I want them to last. Thanks
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Frozen Stitch Length on Singer 144W103
friquant replied to friquant's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
I've been making stitches with the lock screw removed. And after every 50 stitches or so I see if I can move the adjuster. It does seem to move a little. But has not let go like I would prefer. Saw your comment about heat, so I tried some heat on the adjuster with one of those butane torches sold for kitchen use. I didn't get it all that hot, though. Still about the same. -
Whilst I can take or leave spam as is, I'm quite partial to a spam fritter.
- Yesterday
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Placing leather on an upturned die and tapping around with a soft plastic mallet is perfectly feasible but the leather will move around unless you can find a way to stabilise it. Perhaps spray gluing on to a soft cutting board or some MDF might hold it. As dikman says, an arbor press and a soft board will work for smaller dies.
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Here there are different levels of Spam; from the downright awful you wouldn't feed to your dog to the quite tasty stuff. All come in tins. The awful kind has loads of jelliefied fats but the nice stuff has minimal fat. I mostly avoid eating it as it reminds me of taking a packed sandwiches lunch to primary school This may be a measure of how it is disliked here; In the 1970s we had a national strike for 3 months. Everything became near impossible to buy due to shortages. But not spam. The shops always had plenty of stock of that!
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@Montanadave Yes.
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Yes. Yes. Yes.
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Clicker dies, no clicker press?
ThisIsMyFirstRodeo replied to ThisIsMyFirstRodeo's topic in How Do I Do That?
How’s that Vevor press working out for you? -
Clicker dies, no clicker press?
ThisIsMyFirstRodeo replied to ThisIsMyFirstRodeo's topic in How Do I Do That?
Thank you for your input, guys. I think I’ll try the stud sandwich first (lumber, guys, lumber…) and start with a mallet and move up. Like I learned from my time framing, When in doubt, use a bigger hammer… 😁 Luckily, it’s really only for small pieces, keychains/coasters/bracelets and the like, but anything that will help my efficiency. AZR -
Spectacle case
Stetson912 replied to Stetson912's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
That's possible, ideally I'd have some firmer 4 oz to make it from. That would hold up real well. I just used the essex because I had it. Idk like to draw up a tooling pattern and tool one one day -
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I have a couple of small dies for cutting out key fobs so I thought my arbor press should work - it did, but not very well. So I tried a block of wood and a hammer, it also worked, sort of. Next was a bench vise and a couple of pieces of wood, that worked ok. Use a plastic chopping board under the leather as it will be better for the cutting edge. One of those shop hydraulic presses should work well but will be a bit slow if you want to cut out a lot of stuff.
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Warren Boles joined the community
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T M Lumly Saddle?
Warren Boles replied to corinowalk's topic in Saddle Identification, Restoration & Repair
Do you want to sell it? Mr. Lumley rented a building for his shop from my Grandfather, T. L. Lathrop on east Main Street in Cushing, Oklahoma. I owned one of his saddles most of my life. I am now 82 years old I gave my last one to my cousin’s granddaughter because she needed a really good one. Now that they think I am no longer circling the drain, I want another one -
Looks good Larry. The best thing with a natural finish is to leave it in the sun for a while to speed up the darkening, it will eventually get that rich look of old leather.
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Not dumb, kgg, it took me a while to figure out what IWB, OWB and such terms meant and why the holsters have funny shapes. This forum was my first exposure to them. While the holsters wouldn't be illegal here the small handguns are, so there is literally no market for such holsters, which is why I knew nothing about them. They look like interesting things to make.
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Spectacle case
SUP replied to Stetson912's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
That will polish the pattern up very well. But it will get tossed around a bit in bags and in cars and drawers. So this might be sturdier. -
I might have run the right side stitchline out at the edge then run another line close to the gun for retention. Maybe made it wide enough to have a stitchline all the way around the outside perimeter and another next to the gun. Partly just for visual balance. The lettering and the stamping above it could be deeper but otherwise are are spot on. Overall, I like it.
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Two boards and some C clamps or a solid surface, a mallet and a sacrificial piece of wood
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Nice work! Looks great. It's worth whatever someone is willing to pay for it.
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The holster goes inside the waistband and the only thing sticking out will be the clips. The holster will hang on the waistband and the belt Like this:
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Maybe a vise and a couple of boards. kgg
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I am going to ask two dumb. Why are the clips on the front of the holster and how does it attach to your belt??? kgg