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Fool that I am have decided to have a go this year. Know nothing about it except picking up bits through life. Only been here for 3 yrs and last year there was so few bunches that I didn't bother but this year there's about 5 times more. There's still not enough to make it worthwhile so I'll have to supplement with either more grapes from somewhere or some concentrate. A couple peeps on facebook don't want theirs so I'm going tomorrow to see what's left. A whole new learning curve coming up and equipment to buy but two of my daughters will no doubt push me to get it done.

Thanks Bob. Took a while though. Ordered the red and black cord cos wasn't sure which one would have the most impact but I think the black is right.

Hi Clément I can see that they say that a class 45 will be able to handle 3 mm, I had no idea that they could go that high up in diameter. (Mostly guessing from the numbers since I don't speak French 🙂 ) Do you have any pictures of the yarn / linen thread that you intend to use? I am just curious if you are thinking something that is a bit flexible and pliable, or if it is very hard rolled and compact. Depending on what you want to make, and how many of the same thing you will make, hand sewing is definitely an option. If there are some difficult shapes, machine sewing can be really difficult in my experince. But hand sewing can take a lot of time, and if you are planning on making wool ponchos for sale, I guess machine sewing will be the best for the business. I am at work right now (at a ship), but I'll go home in about a week, and I can try to see how much I can wrangle through my class 7 Singer, just as an experiment. I have some heavy 6 strand linen thread, that I could double or triple to test. I just googled for some macrame yarn, and one type was available in 4 mm, but the most types were 2 mm in thickness. https://rito.dk/jutesnor/32859-infinity-hearts-snor-jutesnor-hvid-2mm-100-meter-5713410015773.html This one is jute, so not linen, but still a nature material. Some of theothers were cotton blended with 20% polyester. I don't think that a heavy duty household machine will have a needle system that will be able to handle a 1.2 mm thread. So you will probably have to find some heavy industrial type sewing machine. Now I am by no means an expert in sewing machines, but please remember that just becasue the machine is an industrial type it might not be designed for large needles. Many of the industrial machines are for sewing fast in regular and heavy fabric like denim, but not with very thick threads. Brgds Jonas

Hi Jonas, Many thanks for this complete answer - and very useful advises. Indeed, given this article (in French), they say the "early century machines (including the 45K) should be able to work with a 2,5-3mm yarn". But, that means - yes - finding size 300 needles, and I had not considered that it would cost that much. https://maxandshed.wordpress.com/2020/12/23/une-singer-45k-par-mscr/ In top of that, I have checked with French historical supplier (of linen thread) and their thickest quality is a 1,2mm - so, quite not the 3mm I have been considering at first. The idea of sweing the thread with another thread can work, but I am not sure that the tension of the linen yarn will correct in this case. I think I will consider two options for now : . Hand sewing with a thick yarn (3-4mm). . Working with a 1,2mm thread, and here maybe the job can be done on a regular heavy-duty machine? I will make some trials! Many thanks again for these good words. Clément

Yes I’m more comfortable crying and paying for quality once. Yes I went out on a limb with the Techsew but it serves a general purpose of medium duty. Mainly leather bags. Guess I’ll be patient and research a little more before I pull the trigger if I even pull it. I appreciate everyone’s input and suggestions!

Most machine these days are clones or hybrid clones. The typical brand names are Juki, PFAFF, Dürkopp Adler. Even with the brand names you have to familiarize yourself with what models are made where as not all Juki's are not made in Japan. The Juki DNU-1541S and your Juki Lu-1508 NS are made in Japan while the Juki DU-1181N is made China. I can see between my 1541 and the 1181n there is a build quality difference. The 4800 you have is a hybrid clone of the Juki LS-341, the LS-1341 and the LS-1342. Some people on the forum have bought machines directly from China and seem to be pleased both price and quality wise. However that is not for everyone for many reasons. kgg

Absolutely stunning!

Guess that’s the biggest thing I’d have to get accustomed to is the wheel location. Im still on the fence about spending this amount of money on a machine that in my mind is useful in alot of my work but have a hard time learning new tricks! ( On a different machine)

I’ve considered a clone but really haven’t pursued that since I assumed the Consew would be better quality. wasn’t aware that the Consew was a clone. I’ve actually had good luck with my 4800 pro which is a clone. Maybe I need to investigate them.

I have an old Singer 139w109 that has a 20 inch flat bed from the needle to the body, plus it has a compound feed walking foot mechanism. It was converted to take Juki U size bobbins. The wheel is on the back, but that isn't a problem. It is easily reached. This type of machine is based on the ubiquitous Singer 111 series machines. It can sew 3/8 inch of material with up to #138 bonded thread. I mostly use it to sew embroidered patches onto biker's vests. That's where the 20 inches of bed space comes in handy.

@Handstitched you'll be real popular (not ) taking to the field in football games!

To get that feature in a new brand name it would be a Juki TSC461 in a cylinder arm or a Juki LG-158-1 in a flatbed. Then there are the clones which Consew is that aren't going to hit the pocket book as hard. Have you considered a used long arm Singer or buying a new clone directly from China??? kgg

Oops, thank you!

Glad to help. kgg

Finally got the cord to finish the Corset hat.

I would suggest you join the forum. There is no charge and you can post in the proper part of the forum, and not have to wait for a moderator to approve your post for it to be seen. Post in Leather Sewing Machines.

Been a long time since posting here but I’m back with a possible brain fart! So I’ve been into some automotive upholstery projects lately (Door Panels) and the reach on my juki 1508 NS is ok but it sure would be nice to have the extra throat depth with a long arm. The machine I’m considering is the Consew 255 RBL 25 due to being top loading with a U bobbin. I guess the only hang up in my mind is the lack of a hand wheel closer to the business end of things. Am looking for someone’s experience with this issue if it’s one and overall opinions of pros and cons? Sure love my juki!

Hello there, My name is Stan Evans and I have just joined the forum. I am an 81 year old pensioner from Cheshire in the UK. As a restoration project I have recently bought a rusty old 29K15 patcher. I owned one years ago and sadly got rid of it because of a flood my workshop and it's contents were ruined. So I have aquired this one as a winter project. I have got along fine so fat but am desperately short of two parts I have tried absolutely everywhere to find replacements without any luck. So I'm hoping someone out there can put me in the right direction. The parts I desperately need are the flat spring part number 8627 mine is snapped and the very small needle plate screw which I believe is part number 393 or 404. The parts list I have doesn't specify which but I feel sure it will be the smaller of the two. I know it's a long shot but if someone could help you would make an old man very happy. Fond regards Stan.

Thank you so very much. Great information. Thanks again

Wow! How would you wear something like that without spiking yourself??

@fredk it been a while , but I have finally managed to up load those goth boots that i did a while ago. The boots came from an op shop years ago, and the spikes were from the US years ago. They certainly get a lot of attention at the markets. HS

I'm finally living in a table, but still have to shuffle the motor out from behind the machine because I haven't got it mounted down below yet. I still make some adjustments/observations by squatting down to see from underneath. (The sheet metal drip pan / knee protector has been removed, otherwise I guess I'd need x-ray vision)

Well done mate they look good. Just measured a rivet and they want a surprising 4mm. Will order some now.

This video has helped me considerably I have the same exact machine that I am restoring still deciding on a color I love the color that was used in the bottom picture...

What a beautiful machine, I managed to get one of these American St Louis leather splitter. I purchased it in lot with a shoe stretcher and a couple of other cobbler items for a very reasonable price. I plan on selling the shoe stretcher for it needs work. The leather splitter I will keep I already have it on the restoration. it was really in need of my restoration When I received it.