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Definitely not pretty , but yes, functional. Using a cam to operate the push rod, which could be shorter, is what I have in mind, just an idea kicking around.

I'm curious why that is the weak link? What am I missing? It doesn't look any different to me than other buckles I have.

Bit of confusion there Jonas, he's talking about the lead shot not Black Powder. Brass would deform and crush if dropped/sat on whatever. Some sort of polyethylene funnel cut off and stitched inside? Or sheet polyethylene (milk bottle?) rolled into shape and stitched inside? Or as Chuck suggested, veg tan made to shape and stiffened (hot water?).

glad it works for you.

He wanted info added, not removed from for sale. Did you catch that?

Cow horn can be re-formed by boiling water, a constant rolling boil. But water boils at different temperatures according to how high you are above MSL

That looks great! It would be time for tokonole or gum trag, or you could go with Nigel’s method, which he swears is not licking it off-camera before slicking. (It does work, though… 😉) -AZR

Yeah, that's lookin' good. Apply the Tokonole! Good luck!

thicker veg tan, wet mold it to shape. for that 2 " piece you have sewn in. tool it too lol.

Thank you for tossing the idea out there. TBH, I don’t actually have a computer, anything digital that I do is through my iPhone. (I don’t dare touch my wife’s or daughter’s machines…) But, adding a $200 pc to a $300 engraver is still less than many clickers, especially if adding in the cost of the dies. Definitely not a prohibitive expense in the grand scheme of leatherwork. Thank you again, AZR

Thanks for the input guys. Here's me latest project. Sanded the edges upto 1000 grit. Shall I apply Tokonole now?

That is really a specialty item! Looking really good I must say. My best suggestion would be to use a cow horn. In Europe it was the standard thing for holding black powder, so it won't be damaged by the chemicals in the powder. Cow horn can be shaped if you heat it up first. I am unsure about what temperature, but I think 325-350 degrees Fahrenheit seems to be the spot as far as I can see on the Net. You heat it up in some hot oil, and then you shape it. I'd make a tapered piece of wood with a broom stick as a handle. The tapered piece should look like a small cartoon christmas tree, with the brrom stick out the wide end. Cut a cow horn to a length a bit longer than the tapered piece. Heat up the horn, and press the tapered piece into the horn, and when it cools down it should retain its shape. An alternative route is to take the wide part of a cow horn, cut a piece off, slit it open and heat it up. Then you flatten the piece. WIth the flat piece you mark out to form a tapered pipe. THen heat it again and shape it over a prefabricated piece of wood. I have never tried working with horn this way, I just know the theory behind it. But I guess it might be a heckuvalot of work to make something like that when no one is ever going to see it. A second option would be to form a small cone using some sheet metal brass. Brass is easy to solder and if you get something fairly thin, it is easy to shape as well. Brgds Jonas

A polythene measuring cup, with the bottom cut off. The polythene will be flexible enuf to deform but re-take its shape

Does that clutch only engage in 1 position? If not, you could just be locked in the wrong place.

Thanks! That diagram is very helpful. I loosened the end screws and was able to kick out the safety clutch, and get it to snap back into place (with the clear, distinctive sound that I've seen on YouTube videos). I don't have any feel for how tight it should be set, so I suppose it is safer to leave it at a relatively loose setting for now. The bobbin thread is still not getting picked up, so I'll post a video of that shortly.

Nice. Got it done, looks pretty good. Having lined pouches for blackpowder and shot I feel your pain keeping things all together and lined up. Not sure what you used for lining here? I ended up using waxed cotton canvas to keep things moving freely and mostly waterproof, although the bison was fairly water resistant anyway. Nothing, I mean NOTHING sticks well to waxes. I used heat and tried to clean the wax off the edges, and that didn't really help. But I didn't need to punch stitch holes through the canvas. I figured that out after an hour or effing around trying to get things lined up so I could punch everything. The needles go right through haha. So in the end it wasn't too bad, but it was difficult none the less. Ensuring there's at least a folded edge so the stitches don't pull through, while keeping it all nice and flat against the leather (glues and cements don't work) was really frustrating and I think I went through double the material before I got it right. Any kind of pouch with loose lining is a nightmare to make imo

I'll go remove it, unless someone got to it already.

I just got an order for a double shot snake. I've made one before, for the same costumer but it's been a few years. Definitely not a very common item, even at all the black powder supply companies online. There's no need to make any changes to my pattern, but he suggested using something on the transfer from the shot bag to the spouts to help keep their shape. I was thinking something like a funnel but not a thick piece of plastic. Was looking for something thinner but crush resistant. I have no clue what to call these tapered tubes other than that, tapered tube. That's not working for me on Google and was curious if anyone has any recommendations where to start? I could go with plastic sheeting but i think that'll crush. Anywhere here's a picture. The area I'm taking about is between the 2 powder/shot spouts connection and the main body. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

DG is one of the biggest influences to my work. His measurements for a belt haven't failed me either, when the right info is given. Nailed it! 😆

Last week I put up a post wherein I offered my Pfaff 346 double needle cylinder arm machine for sale. Since then I put some time into inspecting and rectifying the machine and now have the left hand needle position sewing. I'd like to revise the post and add this info.

Yes i see in the post

Looks nice! But here is your weak link!

Looks very good. Making it smaller may reduce the torque at the head. Neater will that is in the eye of the beholder. I think you did well it is clean and most importantly functional. Job well done. kgg

I believe you are on the right course. Here is a parts manual for a similar machine that seems helpful to understand the pieces: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/153942/Singer-211a165aa.html?page=15#manual The following page has descriptions of each part. The way I'm interpreting is that each of those three fat screws on the end has a spring underneath it. Together, those three screws through their respective springs provide pressure to the plate that has a detent for the ball. Someone may have screwed those adjusting screws all the way in, not knowing they were adjustment screws.

Hi John G Welcome to the forum. To me the most important points are: Strength/solidity Size Design/style Finish to me is part of the style, and I normally prefer just a regular brass finish like the one in your picture, alternatively it could be silver coloured, but I prefer no "bling" on my buckles. Prize is not especially important since I don't make 1000 belts, and compared to the time invested in making a nice belt, the prize for a buckle is only of secondary importance. But I guess that if you run a regular production of belts, it is of more importance. I like the small "dip" wehre the prong of the buckle nests. That is a nice touch in my opinion. Depending on what type of product I am making, I use either "normal buckles" like the one in your picture, or "roller buckles" or "center bar buckles" For belts I prefer sizes 1.25" and 1.5" (30mm and 38-40mm). Brgds Jonas