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It's not rusted,don't take it apart! Just re-engage the safety clutch & you'll be sewing again.

Walking around the supermarket yesterday I noticed that they use a thick dense cardboard between the layers of bottled water (and other stuff). There was loads of it and I thought it would be ideal for pattern making and laser practice. If it's rolls you're after they're around 3ft square so would make around a 12inch roll with a bit of tape or string.

Unfortunately I don't get much at that thickness, I wish I did but since we don't normally use it, the lots that come through are rare.

You can buy a couple of harness needles and some tiger thread, or you can use a speedy stitcher. If the sheath is machine sewn, the speedy stitch will work fine. personally, if you're doing these repairs a lot then go with some john James harness needles an awl, both diamond and round, some tiger thread in various colors and sizes. also some contact cement to reglue, then of course the cleaning,conditioning and buffing supplies to make it shine.

I moved this over to "Sewing Leather", where it should get some attention.

I was just showing the tubes as a way to help organize. I wouldn't put tubes on the door, but maybe some small basket type shelves like this:

I work for a food packaging company. The packaging film comes on the cardboard cores. The best place to find it would be checking with vinyl shops that do banners, or car wraps. They will be happy to let you have the cores.

Hello, I recently purchased a navy blue leather purse and the purse is transferring navy blue dye to all my clothes. Is there any way to prevent the purse from bleeding? Thank You

Beautiful!

Thanks. I use the Old City motif a lot, working free hand so that each one comes out a bit different depending on the size and shape of the piece. The mark on the extreme left, if you turn the tag so that the marks are vertical, are my initials in cursive Hebrew.

Here I am, doing leatherwork again after a long hiatus. I had a one man shop in a college town from 1972 to 1975, then decided I needed a steadier income. Now I'm retired, living in Israel, where leather and supplies are not easy to come by. I was self-taught and am learning some skills that I never mastered before. You.tube and forums like this one make that a lot easier than it was 50 years ago. Constraints challenge us to grow, and I have a few new ones here. I'm aiming at smaller projects now, like wallets and card cases, since I'm limited to whatever leather friends can bring me in small quantities when they visit from the U.S. Chemical dye for leather isn't available, even from Amazon (and my doctor doesn't want me near them), so I've been using vinegaroon (the recipe here is fantastic), coffee, shoe creme, olive oil and similar substances. If you hear of a new "kitchen table" recipe for dye, please pass it along. And I can't even think of trying to sell my work or I'd have to register to collect VAT. When I first started, I hated saddle stitching. I'd put my handbags together by lacing them with strips cut from the same leather as the bag itself, until I treated myself to a Consew 226. These days I'm saddle stitching nearly everything and have gotten a lot better at it. But I still miss my Consew.

Just received from where I got my JL341 inc 10 more bobbins. £55 delivered. Now to work out how it works. I do love playing.

If you contact Bob at Toledo Sewing Machine Co (an advertiser on here) . . . that looks just like the server motor he sells. He's more than likely one who will help you with it . . . he's a good guy . . . 419 380 8540 May God bless, Dwight

I am a sharpener, so I sharpen knives, but I also do some repair and refurbishing work. I recently picked up a hunting knife in a sheath to refurbish. The sheath is in need of some sewing. So, I am looking for a decent starter kit to do the work on this sheath. Can someone please recommend something and possibly where to purchase it?

Here is a decent video on how the safety clutch works. ( If your machine will not reengage as @CowboyBob has suggested due to parts being seized I would suggest removing it and soaking it in diesel for a day or so then oiling it. If it still will not work either replace it or as a very last resort tack weld it in place. If you tack weld it in place you will not have a safety and if you jam the machine up you probably or more then likely going to damage / destroy other internal spots. kgg

That's the problem with unknown steels. it depends on what type of steel you have so its hit and miss if you get a good temper. Most can be though with some experimentation on some scraps. you have to re-harden the blade, then temper it. you can get by with map gas on small blades if you can keep the steel at temp throughout the whole length of the cutting edge. P.S. I made this at home, does it count lol. and my putty knife skiver was the inspiration.

Very simple,the safety clutch kicked out maybe because you forgot to hold the thread when you first started sewing.So there's 2-buttons on the bed,push the one on the right down while turning the hand wheel backwards & keep turning it until you hear a loud click.This means it's back in gear.PS if your repair person didn't know this I would look for someone else!

Thank you Alzilla. As much as as love this machine I just wonder when I should say enough is enough. She has great bones but sometimes …….. The repair man John has fine tuned everything but when he got to this part he just was not comfortable with taking it apart. He doesn’t work on many 111W155.

i like the conchos if i did anything to this, which i wouldn't, I would make the tail on the holster strap a little shorter. Oh damn, no tassels, this ain't no peep show yer dancin in.

@Charles_Bandolero, you have some interest. We need to get this one in compliance quickly, please.

Moved to Leather Sewing Machines since we don't have a "Rubber Sewing Machines" section ... Still a better shot at some help.

Well, that's certainly an improvement. I wish I had a clue why it's doing that. Maybe @Wizcrafts, @kgg or @Uwe will happen by and be able to explain it.

Need some photos and shipping info, please.

Since I imagine many have followed this thread, here is the set my gunsmith both uses and recommended to me as I worked on my 1964 Singer 7-33. I included a large photo so you can see the specifications chart on the lid, detailing the blade thickness and shank diameter of each bit. I asked him if this wasn't a bit of "overkill" given the high price. His response was compared to the cost of having a screw custom machined, these are a deal. Robert

Christmas has come early for you! Ho Ho Ho.