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If their logo is unique to them then you cannot use it any old way without incurring the wrath of khan coming down on your head. You can only use it on products for them with their permission

You need to have some patience. Nobody works here, it's just a collection of Leatherworking enthusiasts who check in when they have time. They answer these things out of a love of the craft and a desire to help. It's worth a lot more than you'll pay for it.

Cool, sounds like a good 'standard practice' way to address it. Of course, the final say goes to Mr. M (who runs that company) I'm still asking if I can just keep it and use it willy-nilly. Doubt they can do that, but this owner is a different breed.

Do you have a user manual? These three separate adjustments work together to form a stitch without splitting the thread: Needle bar rise (how far the needle has risen from bottom dead center when the hook point crosses the needle) Needle bar height (where in the scarf the hook crosses the needle) Hook to needle distance (How much space between the hook and the scarf...ideally none)

What Fred said, and even though you will own the stamp, you can't use for profit or sell their logo without their permission. At least that is the law in the US.

Bill once with the proviso included that you keep the stamp and you can use it on further orders from them

Tooling leather looks easy - until you try it! You've made a start, now you just need lots of practice to refine your techniques. Keep at it.

How about some photos/videos showing what it is doing? My first guess is you will need to balance the lift of the inner toe to the outer toe. If that is the case, this video by Uwe may help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iiaaT1npYrQ&t=192s

I have a fetish for German machines. Juki seams fine though :D

I think I'm in the midst of making a mistake around leatherwork. So a local business, with a very recognizable logo are interested in some key chains. I'm sure that logo would also sell in galleries, since it is northern themed. I haven't talked to the gents who own the company, but expect they would want control of that logo. Or need it. (finance is funny) How does this usually shake out? Would it be billing the company a one-time fee for the production of the stamp? Or splitting it over an order or two? Good thing I'm slow, but my test stamp (ordered for my own purpose) will be here in a day or two, and I am going to do a run of a dozen once or twice, to get a feel for production time. But I will have to figure this out, before I can exploit this lovely opportunity (I really like the company and owners)

What machines are you sewing with now? What kind of triple feed machines come up often in your local marketplace ads?

I don't have a Singer 18-2, but I do have a Singer 31-15 which has a similar-looking mechanism. I have not taken it apart though. I'm not sure if the stud is threaded into the fork or if the fork just slides over the stud. With the nut off, I would check if the fork can be gently pryed away from the other linkages. Meaning, in your last picture you would pry the fork toward the camera.

Hey, am i going to get any help ?

I'm glad you had good success with the dealer. Seems strange, you should contact them or Alder directly for a solution. Ah, you should bought a Juki. kgg

its super strange that ALL the feet and plates cant use needles obove 140, even though it can use a 180 needle :S But yes im super happy with them. they said that they would just put the machine at demo in there shop. And I can use the 969 until the new 869 arrives.

my bad - my feed dog is from a 104-64 - sorry. Anyway, your looks normal to me.

Option E: Domestic Sewing Machine Motor See the parent article: Choosing a Motor A domestic sewing machine motor is a small, compact universal motor that is typically used on domestic sewing machines. 1. What is a Domestic Sewing Machine In this case, “domestic” means “for home use”. But you can think of it as a “dainty” sewing machine. That is, often used for sewing thin materials together with skinny needles, TEX 20 - TEX 70 thread. On this photo you see a common configuration, with the motor mounted directly to the body of the machine. 2. What is a Universal Motor In a nutshell: it’s a motor that can run on AC or DC voltage, and whose speed and torque can be varied together by varying the input voltage. See this page on wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_motor Note universal motors always have brushes. Typical universal motors seen on domestic sewing machines draw 1-amp @ 115 volts (or ½ amp at 230 volts), and have a maximum speed of 5000 - 7000 rpm. Some are a little beefier. 3. What Kind of Speed Controller A domestic sewing machine motor typically comes with a foot pedal that has a built-in variable speed controller. Some use a “carbon pile”, meaning a pile of about 50 carbon discs, and when a spring pushes them tighter together, more current flows through them. Carbon piles do get warm in use. Others use a TRIAC speed control. See this page on wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TRIAC#Application You can usually replace the foot pedal (speed controller) separately from the motor. So if your foot pedal does not provide a good linear response, try a different one. 4. Is a Domestic Sewing Machine Motor the right Motor for me? Domestic sewing machine motors are a compact, inexpensive alternative for powering your industrial sewing machine. They are intuitive to drive. They will excel in situations where not a lot of torque is required. So pretty much any non-walking foot sewing machine could be a good candidate for a domestic motor, especially if you gear it down. 5. How to Gear Down You can improve the pedal response of a domestic sewing machine motor by gearing it down. This gives the machine better low-end response so it won’t bog when crossing thick material at low speed. The motor pulley that comes with a domestic sewing machine motor usually fits well with 5mm polyurethane “PU” belt, which can be cut to length and hot-fused. You can put an oversize handwheel pulley, see examples: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/132445-domestic-motors/ More info on making wooden pulleys: https://preciousww.com/making-big-v-belt-pulleys-from-plywood/ Or you can add an intermediate gear reducer, see example: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/132447-glove-sewing-machine-advice/#findComment-789023

That's a nice first piece. Stay with it and have fun practicing. Keep your first piece so you can compare later on. My first one has disappeared over the years but I still have the second. It's good to go back and look at it now and then.

Well, you can still post to it, but I'd recommend starting a new thread with what you know and what you'd like to know. Pictures always draw attention. It might be interesting to have a thread dedicated to your grandfather.

Mine had the oval hole. I raised it all the way up when I was sewing wear leathers on saddle blankets. otherwise - the teeth barely clearing the slot.

Great looking work.We have used the 1.5 amp 9000 rpm version of this motor on Singer 29 patchers in the past & they work pretty good.You have to use a stronger foot pedal with it as the motor will fry a standard pedal.

As someone who has a science degree, and is very interested in it, it really burns me the number of times women have made really important scientific discoveries, only for men to take all the credit. The best known example is probably the discovery of how the DNA molecule is put together. It was a woman, Rosalind Franklin, who did the x-ray crystallography that revealed the molecule was actually a double helix. Yet scientists Watson and Crick were the ones who received all the credit. In a later edition of the book, The Double Helix, (published 1968) Watson confessed that Franklin did not receive the credit she deserved: Unfortunately, this was many years after Franklin's death from cancer in 1958.

I have no authoritative answer on the question of lubricants. But I can say that lots and lots of people use kerosene for an initial clean down on sewing machines, followed by sewing machine oil. In the olden days of yore, people would put a quart of diesel fuel in their crankcase and run it a while before changing their oil. I, too, am deeply envious of such a find. Congratulations.

I would use kerosene in a spray bottle and a paint brush to clean it and remove all the old brown oil it will also help remove any old gummed up oil Numerous applications will be required . For stubborn grime soak a cloth in kerosene and wrap the cloth around the particular part over night and wipe off or work it with a brush the next day . Start from the top down . Keep in mind that kerosene stinks to high heaven for at least a week so do it outside and under cover . As for oil,a sewing machine white oil will do the job .I use a synthetic motor oil 5W-30W on my outsole stitcher and it seems to love it . you will also have to replace all the rubber belts because they deteriorate over time but they are easy to find in an auto parts shop. Please keep us posted on progress . I love to see an old machine come back to life .

I got it moving. Now, after I get the WD-40 off everything. What type of lube should I use for this machine. I imagine that different parts need different type of lubricant. I keep finding info saying all kinds of stuff from regular sewing machine oil to ATF even kerosene and I'm not exactly sure what info to go with. If there is a consensus on this I'd welcome the info. Thanks PXL_20251209_021619880.mp4