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Let's tag the OP to be sure they see this. @soulcraftgoods

My absolute favorite tool, and the only one that is not a relatively inexpensive Tandy buy, is my vintage (120 years +) C.S. Osborne round knife. 5.5" inches from point to point that I got for a song on eBay. I have the tools and know-how to restore the edge, so I sharpened it myself. I love that knife and do everything with it, from rough cutting to skiving to fine trimming. The blade is thin, so the whole thing is light and very agile. Next thing I'd like to upgrade is my stitching awl, but my Tandy Pro one still does the trick for what I'm doing. But frankly, halfway decent beginner tools will serve you very well for a long time. The biggest thing to work on, IMO, is technique. I'm right there at the same stage of skill as you, and I don't think my skill has equaled or surpassed the quality of my tools.

I have a few I can share with you I'll PM them to you later

Welcome aboard. You've found the very best place on the net to learn about any and all aspects of Leathercraft. It was pretty much the first place I landed a few years ago. For the adult stuff, we keep that in the sub forum at https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/46-oh-no-dont-stop/ You'll need the secret password to enter, which is "adult" without the quotes. The password just keeps it from showing up in the regular flow of more family friendly content. Have fun!

Is this still available?

I moved your post to "wanted" in the Marketplace area.

I have the clamp off. If this is the case, I'll tap the shaft out to front from the access hole on the pulley side. Clean things up and reassemble. I'll report back. Thinking back, memory is fading, I recall at one point the machine was difficult to turn over. Thanks again! Dan where the frost is on the pumpkins in the mornings.

Does anybody have the Tandy western gun holster belt pattern they are willing to share with me or a shoulder holster pattern please and thank you

hi,my name is ben smith from usa new on here so happy to be part of this forum i cant wait to get started

Amish do tend to migrate. I used to shoot allot. Not so much anymore though (Age/money). Younger brother made a living for 15 years shooting Service Rifle but even he's retired now. LOL

This shaft has a clamp on the other end that you need to loosen only when your setting the needlebar to match the feed dog.Otherwise it should be tight & only move when you turn the handwheel.There's a hole on the backside of the casting to access the big screw on the clamp.

I used to sell heaps of those on my stall, in 3 different sizes, they were very popular . That and many other 'western themed 'products . I won't name the company that I bought from, but it was in Pennsylvania . I even bought one for my mother . But economics have changed and I no longer buy them. HS

Hiya, my name's Milo, I'm based in Glasgow and just getting started out with leatherwork proper. I've done a few repairs to broken accessories, replaced some buckles and the like, and am just getting started on making my own stuff from scratch My background coming into this is the world of kink and leatherfolk, where I run some events including for folk who appreciate leather gear and clothing. I don't know how common a background that is here but I'm sure many of you will have encountered us at one point or another. I know how to sew and some basic garment construction, how to care for leather items and repair leather, and other crafting bits and bobs. My main desire is to make accessories, harnesses, cuffs, etc. I'm just getting started on my first projects making some cuffs and keyrings, as well as my first big project which is a boot harness. Really glad to see a forum like this exists and it's really cool to see everyone's projects! I'm looking forward to learning a lot.

This just about had me ROTFLOL!

Thanks, @AlZilla — I thought about your comment again and went ahead and added domestic shipping options. Really appreciate the tip — that was super helpful! John

Found the issue. The shaft running along the bottom of the head is really stiff! I can move it the offset on it by prying it back and forth. I'm guessing this should move easily. I want to get the shaft out and clean it and the bore it goes in. Is there any mechanical object holding that shaft in the head once the parts are removed from both sides? I have been able the tap it out a bit, but don't want to force it if something needs to be removed such as a set screw. Thank you for all of the input each and everyone!

That’s a nice looking bandolier!

Long Arm Highlead GC20698-2 for sale. Asking $3500 It's been in storage for awhile, but was lightly used. Machine is located in Metro Detroit, MI. I'm willing to crate for a fee, though pickup would be easiest. I also have a Fortuna skiver for sale. I would be willing to do a package deal for both items. Thanks! Matt

Fortuna Skiver Model V50S for sale. Asking $1500 It's been in storage for awhile, but was pulled in working order. Machine is located in Metro Detroit, MI. I'm willing to crate for a fee, though pickup would be easiest. I also have a long arm twin needle sewing machine for sale. I would be willing to do a package deal for both items. Thanks! Matt

Almost finished. Far more work than I'd bargained for and my hands didn't thank for making the loops a bit tight. Quite happy with the result though. I haven't seen any for sale that include cartridges and these are ballistic tipped, our laws over hre are pretty strict even on components for making so I had to make sure they definitely couldn't be re used.

Thanks, I'll check that out. WOW......that's 160 miles from Arthur!! A bit of a stretch for his horses! Are you a highpower shooter?

I'd say so. Years ago I read John Bianchi's book on holsters (1980's). In it he detailed a bit that they would treat molded and dried holsters with neatsfoot oil, then place in the California sun for that rich golden glow and then treat with hard wax. Resolene would have pretty much the same effect as using hard wax/mop and glo, etc. Bianchi was without doubt the expert on the subject. If such a thing worked for him, it will work for you. Just don't saturate the leather with Neatsfoot. I personally don't like Resolene. Your results may vary, so if it works for you, use it. I'd suggest Weaver tough Kote (or Tough Kote in BLACK) over resolene. It's similar, but slightly more matte than bright glossy. (Ok, may or may not be available in the EU?) I've used lots of Feibings Pro Dye (Oil Dye) and I never really had any stiffening or drying out to speak of. The cheaper Feibings dye is far worse for drying out your leather though. Are you sure you're not using it instead?

I received the 3 sets I ordered today. The L & R and needle feet fit fine but there is a difference in design and finish between the L & R but should work as intended. The "both" foot needed a touch with a Dremel stone to open up the width of the fork by the screw hole to allow the screw to pass through the hole, about 0.1mm. I've had this with some other feet sets in the past so no surprise.

I did watch the video. I had to go look at my 153. I found the clamp in the attached pic that looks like it would affect the position of the needle bar. Haven't a clue. Yet. EDIT: The part number is Simanco 202666 and comes back as "Rock Frame Position Bracket". Do we have a winner?