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Try this: Start and end each seam with the take-up lever at its highest point. (Otherwise the machine will yank the thread out of your hands when the seam begins) Also post a photo of how you've got the top thread threaded, from spool to needle eye. Just in case it's misthreaded. And check the timing. I like to check where the hook shoulder is when the take up lever is at its lowest point. If the timing is retarded, the take up lever will yank hard on the thread before the thread reaches the apex of its path around the bobbin. If still not working, can post a close-up video of the needle and bobbin area with the bobbin cover off. Turn the handwheel very slowly for the video, on the order of ten seconds per revolution, so we can see the interaction of the different pieces. Hope this helps!

To be so secretive about screw thread information is weird, it suggests to me that they don't actually know!

So I have typically finished pieces with antiquing and Resoline. Now, I am doing some purses and bags where I think there will be too much wear on the Resoline finish to stand up well over time. Right or wrong? I like dying, oiling, and almost always antiquing. Before antique I use Pro Resist. So, how to get to a wax finish instead… and is that the way to go? Thought?

Liner is a suede pigskin I had left over., and thanks.

Very nice ! I like your choice of thread colors. I can't tell what was used for the liner, but it looks good.

that small slot in the side port is for air flow the wood goes in above it, and the burn happens at the junction of the two. Then the gases/smoke burns also inside the flue part. Very efficient and hot.

I picked up this machine about a month ago. Got it cleaned and oiled. Threaded it and started practicing on vinyl. Got tired of practicing and decided to actually sew something. Made a cover for the machine. Couple days later, tried to sew again and no way. Thread keeps jamming. It will actually pull the top thread, that I'm holding, into the machine and jam. Popped the safety clutch once. Set the hook timing. Same thing. I've had it apart, those 3 little screws, about 8 times. It just keeps pulling thread in and jamming.. Nothing was changed since I made the cover, it just quit....Any ideas?

Hi! Thanks! Like I wrote, I have been in contact with both Astor and the Swedish agent, and the agent straight up wrote in an email that the Astor doesn't give out this information and that's the end of that conversation.

This is exactly what I needed - I was searching things like "backing" and completely down the wrong bookbinding path. Stiffener for the win. thanks!

This are some great, creative, outside-the-box ideas - love it. Thank you!

Hey Jonas - really appreciate it - I have a starting point for the color match. I was going to try one of the Fil au Chinois threads because I figured it would be a natural fiber but I'm going to start with what you used and go from there. Thanks again!! Jim.

Hi, I have the same problem on my industral sew machine. Did you find a solution to fix the wrong tension?

Thank you for the info, will check it out. Sounds easier than the silicon.

Going off my experience. I couldn't tell you who made trees for them - several commercial tree companies in business at the time. That rope roll and steel laced EVERYTHING was popular in the late 70s. Laced cantles only were popular for a long time. Tooling patterns on TexTans were always pretty simple and easy for a carving crew and I suspect some were press plate designs - not much of a way to date by that tooling for me. I bought a show saddle a little higher up the food chain in 1976 for $1280 and as I recall the better TexTan/Herefords were about $300-$400 less. In 1981 I bought one new and one lightly used Billy Cooks together for $2000.

I made a new case by expanding the case that came with my ray-bans, I was going to reuse the plastic frame that came with it by it cracked when I was taking it out. So taped it and reused it as a frame to wet mould some leather to mould the inner protection. I like how it came out, I saw this reverse clasp on other examples I had seen and liked the look of it.

oh, it sure would. It may be the best tech improvement to the woodstove since Franklin. Some pals made a very small one, and with twigs no bigger than my thumb, they melted a bunch of aluminum down to cast a 10 inch dragonfly ornament. I haven't got one yet, but it is also on my list. I kind of wonder how small it could be, while still re-burning the gasses...

The seller knows nothing about saddles - Inheirited. What year was this carving popular? What type of tree was usually used? And just for fun the approximate retail price the saddle sold for, I am going through my old western horsemen but in 2/3 of the time Tex Tan is advertising belts or stores that carry their saddles

That looks nice but I don't think it would be a good burner. No holes for airflow to the charcoal

piping always. There is a reason you use it in light leather goods, actually more than one lol.

I'm experimenting with different ways to stitch leather pieces together. Without the piping, you can see a little bit of the stitching when I turned the panel from the gusset. When I added the piping, the stitches disappeared entirely and the leather became much more cooperative with making the curve of this bag. I didn't skive the piping, panel, or gusset. I didn't add a wire/string in the piping. I just cut a narrow strip of leather from the gusset leather, applied glue, and forced it over with a bone folder, then punched the holes. I'm working with two $10 rolls of chrome tanned leather from a local hobby shop...low end stuff. I'm working on a tribute handbag of the highest end French maker. I didn't find any already produced patterns for this design, so I created the plan myself with help from chatgpt. AI is useful in the process, but I had to make adjustments for what seemed like faulty planning on its part.

Have you seen a rocket stove? It's the great-grandson of you BBQ lol? its on my bucket list of things to build.

You are welcome! This sometimes happens when you strip the 29K´s. You are not the first and for sure not the last with this problem. 😉 Have fun with your patcher.

I've made a few simple baccy pouches. I used material called 'rip stop'. Its sort of a nylon fabric, very thin, available in many colours. I glued it to the leather than sewed the pouch up

If the shooter is so particular about things I'd go the extra distance and use cow horn

I forgot about the expanded aluminium; I placed that on to stop my sausages falling thru the bars. The bars hinge up to put wood or charcoal under them for burning