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This often linked thread will explain the differences between types of machines and what to look for to do different kinds of leather work:

Could you supply a picture of your tension assembly and thread at the point, where the needle eye just enters the fabric?

Yesterday I received an email informing me that Tippmann have a 'Spooky Sale' on until 31st October. 10% off machines and 20% off accessories I already have a Boss and don't need another I see they do the Boss in fancy colours and schemes rather than just the basic black

I had a lady friend (no romance involved) who was an amateur radio user, and I did the same thing. But in code as well, eg SH = SOS HOME = "rescue me, I want to go home now." Once we were caught out, by an ex-Royal Navy radio operator who recognised our morse!

here is a parts list that tell you what it originally was designed for. Its basically is a tailoring machine that is surely able to sew some garment leather. if it need parts google the part numbers or post pictures of your machine so we try to figure what could fit from other machines. Feet seem to be the type that is used on 107w, 143w, 457w and so forth (straight stitch). singer 150w104 parts list.pdf

Fredk, wow, just...wow! What an antiquated attitude! My grandmother was a ground breaker! Her father, a druggist, died of a heart attack in his 50's then his only son succumbed to the 1918 flu. That meant her mother had to take in boarders in order to survive, and my grandmother had to go out and get a job outside the home, which was not very common in those days for a woman. At first, she apprenticed to a milliner. However, she had poor eyesight, and the very fine stitches needed in hat making were too difficult for her. Then, a family friend heard there was a position open at the railway office for someone to learn telegraphy. She applied, and got the job! It was a very unusual job for a woman at that time. A station agent who worked nearby was curious about this woman telegrapher, and decided he wanted to meet her. Soon they were dating, and marriage followed! Mom says they used to send Morse code messages to each other by tapping on the table when they didn't want their children to know what they were talking about!

Good to hear you have it sorted. Looks like a good machine for light watchband work and similar. If you ever get up Rocky way drop in for a yak. I have lots of shoe making gear and lasts to get rid of.

@CWW97 Thanks for posting it here. To be in compliance with the rules, we need a picture, price, shipping info. Posted here for your reference: ========================================== Marketplace Rules 1. Post must have a clear and descriptive topic title. 2. Post must contain a complete description of item(s); make, model, condition, height, width, length, weight. color etc. Condition noted as: New, Refurbished, Like New, Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair, Poor, Parts Only, and or Percentage of New condition, 100% being New or Like New. 3. Post must contain explanation of what item is or does. 4. Post should contain picture or pictures of item when possible. 5. Post must contain definite price in USD for the item, we know prices are negotiable but a price nonetheless. Shipping policy needs to be stated clearly. 6. Post must be modified with additional information as necessary, and marked when item is sold. ALL MACHINES FOR SALE MUST INCLUDE PICTURE. 7. Leatherworker.net assumes no responsibility or liability for any seller or buyer. Caveat Emptor. 8. Responses to ads can be accepted through the forum or privately. Email addresses may not be posted in public. Posting telephone numbers and addresses wll be at the discretion of the member. 9. Posts older than 60 days, or items marked "sold" will be archived. 10. Any post is subject to editing or deletion solely at the moderators' discretion. Members or businesses wishing to place more than 20 ads per year are requested to donate to the site to receive a "Dealer" designation. Dealers will receive preferred placement consideration and banner ads on the site's resource listings. Dealers will also be given a private forum for business or personal use moderated by Art. PM Admin for more information.

Here's a sort of half assed manual for it. Kind of a poor scan but has some decent information. Generally, it would not be an optimal choice for leather work. 150w104.pdf

Thank you guys! I had read a bunch of threads and was still feeling a bit lost. I really appreciate the kind replies from everyone

Hello looking for info on 150w104 will it work for leather and where to get parts for it. I've searched and can't find anything. Thank you

For the leather part up to 3/8" thick of your planned sewing I agree with @Wizcrafts. However the biothane is a completely different beast as you are basically sewing through sticky rubberish material so you may have to go up to a Class 441 machine like a manual one arm bandit ( Tippman Boss or a Cowboy Outlaw) or motorized Class 441 like a Cowboy 2500, 3500 or 4500. A lot is going to depend on the thread size you want to use, thickness of item and how deep your pockets are. kgg

Very nice sheath, love the knife the scales are top notch.

Thank you, it was a challenge. Thank you Thank you Appreciate it Thank you

Very impressive work.

Very nice work on the sheath. That's a complex bit of pattern-welding on the knife.

That is very nice intricate work on the sheath. Is it hand sewn? Very interesting pattern your knife blade too

Well done Tilda. May you have lots of happiness and few stabbed fingers in your new profession Take it as it comes. I'm a man, a bloke, and it makes me really, really mad that women have to fight to get the jobs they want or especially qualified for One of my sisters went to a posh grammar school. She got 11 'O levels' and 6 'A Levels' = that meant she was very smart. Her careers officer told her to learn to type and get a secretarial job!

Uhh! That sheath looks like it's going to be a show stopper at any LARP event. Nice work!

Oh Sheila, that sounds really too familiar! It's a men's world, we are just allowed to exist in it as it feels. Some time ago, I used to be furious about it. Now I just shrug and say, “As long as no man kills me, it’s fine.” It’s dark humor, but honestly… it’s survival. In my field, it’s insane how you can be highly qualified and still not get the job, while a man with barely any qualifications — just a few more month of experience in any field, but yours — gets hired easily and then looks at you like you’re crazy for even daring to apply. I’ve beaten McKinsey consultants in practical exams, but none of that seems to matter anymore. Instead, people get angry that I refuse to work for free. So really, changing careers just feels healthier — especially considering how the political climate here in Germany is shifting. And thank you for sharing your story! And glad you found your place as a nurse! The Dr. Best story sounds amazing and inspiring. I can totally understand why you would have loved to do this permanently. My best story is probably working with THE family business consultant and scholar (he loves! like really loves, alpro chocolate milk and is the most chill Italian guy I've ever met! Plus had the craziest stories form sitting in family boards) and being told by an Ex-Wallstreet Broker, that he thinks I'm highly talented (best about that: A McKinnsey Consultant heard that and was sooooo goddamn mad at me, she really showed her "best" character" 😂). Since then, I can't take any McKinsey Consultant seriously for life of me.

Yesterday I finish sheath crafting own freshly made knife.

Selling my leather creasing machine Has Randall&Co.CIN.O.PATD.JAN.1861&FEB1875 on the lever/handle. Electric motor. Works amazing. Email for pictures/offers Courtneywest81@gmail.com

That needle alignment is weird. It appears to be too far forward in the hole. A proper alignment is dead center front to back. The needle clamp itself can be moved sideways to get closer or farther away from the hook. Remove that clamp and check for foreign material that might be causing the needle to sit on an angle. Maybe the clamp screw is loose. Tighten it after centering it sideways.. If this doesn't solve the problem, maybe the throat plate has two different size holes. Rotate the plate if the other hole is larger. Also, that needle looks very large. Try a smaller needle.

If the needle is splitting the top thread on the way into the material, your check spring ie either not properly set, or is accidentally bypassed, or is missing. The purpose of a check spring is to maintain some tension on the top thread as the take-up arm moves down. The assembly should have a bottom stopper bracket that can be adjusted to stop the downward movement of the spring at a position where the needle has just entered the top of the material. The spring action should be adjustable too. Set it to just hold the thread taut. This should solve the thread splitting problem.

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