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  2. I have a Kenmore 158 that I used to use in my shop when I had to sew cloth and linings. It is a good machine and was well built. I don't know about the availability of parts though. I think they are strong enough to sew soft leather, or to sew patches onto vests, but not over pockets. The Adler you have is a 30-70, not the other way around. ;-) It is a great machine for sewing patches over sleeves and pockets, or for sewing in zippers.
  3. The cb3200 is one of the 441 class sewing machines, but, at 1/2 inch, it has less thickness capacity than the cb4500 and similar large models. The arm is shorter too, measuring in at 10.5 inches. Other than that, it uses the same needles, bobbins and thread. However, the Cowboy raised holster and stirrup plates are too tall for the 3200 due to its lower thickness capacity. Further, the optional drop-down edge guide doesn't fit on the 3200. If most of your projects will be between 1/8th and 1/2 inch thickness, this machine will serve you very well.
  4. Do you mean the hand wheel just spins and the rest of the machine stops? Maybe a safety clutch problem or the hand wheel is loose on the arm shaft? If the belt is slipping, the solution is obvious ... Can you turn it through by hand when it stops?
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  6. @Chux I'm in the same boat as yourself was wondering if you had any luck on the Boston style, been looking for the matte and patent leather supplier but with no luck was wondering if you found a good source for these ????
  7. I bought my CB3200 new from Cowboy Bob (Toledo Sewing Machine) back in late 2013 (great folks to deal with...VERY knowledgeable)...absolutely zero regrets as far as function and easy of use. If anything and I could do over, I would have gotten the "big brother" 4500 but that's another machine for another day, i reckon...if I can spare the room (I also have an antique industrial I use for light leather, canvas and cloth). That said, if you've found a good deal on a 3200 in decent working condition...close by your abode (yay, no shipping costs!!!)...I'd jump on that train car. As the experts herein will tell you (paging Wiz and Mr. Bob especially), it and its larger contemporaries have plenty of feet/accessory options and will sew a broad range of thread sizes, albeit with some setup required. Toledo Sewing Machine has the spec's on it...Google them. (for some reason my computer won't let me link it) Hope this helps! Chris
  8. When I put a piece of leather in the machine it will punch the holes perfectly. When I thread the machine up the needle stops at the top of the material and won't go through to start stitching. The fly wheel just spins. What adjustments do I need to do to correct this? The machine is well oiled and free from all thread and dirt..a very clean machine. Thanks
  9. Mclark Thanks. Yes the knot is for the hammer spur strap. I don't have a picture of the back and the pattern is from "the hand of God" pack, (3:10 to yuma) but modified a little to fit a regular belt instead of a gun fighter belt. It's stitched instead of folding over and into a "Mexican style" loop. My client has no desire to have a full rig, he just wanted the holster. So I trimmed some of the extra bulk off to make it more comfortable on a standard belt.
  10. Here's the original link. https://ykk.meclib.jp/library/books/Zippers_101/book/#target/page_no=1
  11. Double K it looks as good as any proressional made rig. The finish is the right color and the stitching is the right size for the project and is nice and even. I assume the knott is for the safety strap? Can we see the back and what holster pattern did you use?
  12. So, I moved you over to the sewing machine area. I don't see any problem talking about the old Kenmore. Ask away. @cpo1wh Is it a flatbed and the guts look something like this?
  13. Nice work. Looks great.
  14. I think you are looking for the pattern pack from tandy. It has 4-5 or more patterns in it.
  15. Hi Tom, I can only see the first page of the document? Brgds Jonas
  16. I grabbed some scrap and did a few quick and dirty finish on 3/4" tape ending for example with folding pieces of 1-k cordura . and there probably other techniques also. You can just Hot Knife, cut . . You can do a double-back fold, and do a quick little zigzag or bar-tack . . you can do an inward 'tuck' fold finish . The double-fold over, and tack is pretty self-explanatory for a finish on the tail-end . Hot Knife, cut-off takes a little practice to make look clean, and also a good seal/melt . Also Nylon hot knifes different than if you using Polyester. Polyester binding. You can make both look good, but they melt/act a little differently. Personally I think nylon cuts melts nicer. The inward tuck fold on the finish. That is used a lot with ending finish. Also on binding where you bind a circumference and finish off running on top your starting point. There a couple ways you can do it, and there is some technique involved that takes a little practice . Main thing is you have to stop the binding a couple inches from the finish. leave the Needle or Needles in the plunge holding down the material . Then slide or fold back you binding Folder out of the way, and cut the binding leaving some binding to work with for making the fold-tuck. Then just sew the finish without using the Folder. Also there couple ways to work the binding with your under-tucking . You can just fold it as is, and fold inward. Or you can do a 'split' center-lengthwise in the tailing piece your tucking . - - - -
  17. I love the moth too!
  18. actually, it's not for leather, it's for sacks. And so, it has no feed dogs or such. I wonder, if anybody has informations on it. Or pictures /ideas to build transportation (stitching plate and feed dog are available on ebay, other parts not. But I could also think about something like on Singer 29) The other special about: it lifts the foot between stitches (shure, very useful, when repairing bags), maybe I can use it for fat embroidery😁
  19. Not sure if this topic is acceptable, but I'll ask anyway. I am getting ready to tweak an Adler 70-30, which, in my opinion, a very solid machine for leather work. But..., I also have a Kenmore 158.352 that is capable of sewing light leather and is a lot of fun to use. My question is: Does this forum allow questions regarding sewing machines of the homemaker type, such as the Kenmore 158.352? I have a timing question if so. Thanks for yout replies.
  20. Just leave the leather unlaminated?
  21. This YKK Zippers 101 document has some useful information and styles I hadn't seen before. 0001.pdf
  22. an older freeby Sadly I can not answer to that topic directly. Just searching infos on some machines shown here: - picture 3 and 4: the black machine in front of the light golden Pfaff - pic 17 (on pic 20 between No 61 (Singer 11) and No 73), 2 yellow bonds: which type? (maybe 7 double-needle type) Grats to the lucky one, who could take the collection: Those are not just industrial machines, many, maybe most are real special ones
  23. Buy a couple hundred binder clips & hold your project together with them. As you are sewing remove 1 or2 clips at a time & continue to sew it together
  24. SUP

    Some of my works

    Ditto!
  25. I have the 4500 . . . which will sew a bit thicker and use some heavier thread . . . but from my perspective . . . the 3200 would very probably do what you need with no trouble. I have nothing but good words to say for the Cowboy sewing machine I own . . . was worried to spend as much as I did for it . . . but am certainly glad I did . . . May God bless, Dwight
  26. Seems like it ought to turn. Heat from a hair dryer or heat gun and/or I'd take one or more of those screws all the way out and put some kind of penetrating oil in there.
  27. Thanks guys, Ill try what you suggest and see what works. If no luck maybe Ill have to switch to apholstery? Especially if they keep fading out after only a years time.
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