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I really like the accent carving, but in my opinion, a single layer of leather with no means of retention on a gun as heavy as a 1911 will become sloppy over time, making it a dangerous situation.

More foot pressure might help the lifting. Does it sew cloth without shredding? How about the thread and needle size?

I have seen something similar while wet forming on some hides not all, cost effective 2/3 and 4/5 oz veg tan leather and not from Tandy. It has appeared as dots or small lines. I figured it was fat appearing but this topic caused me to do an AI search related to the Tandy Econo and probably applies to other suppliers the results were: i) "The milky substance rising from Tandy's Econo Veg Tan leather while casing is likely natural oils and tannins leaching out of the leather as it deeply hydrates. Casing involves thoroughly wetting the vegetable-tanned leather so the water penetrates evenly through the fibers, which can draw out waxes, fats, and residual tanning materials causing a cloudy or milky appearance on the surface. This is more common in economy grades like Econo Veg Tan because they may have more natural variations and less refined finishing compared to higher-grade leathers." ii) The regions most commonly associated with these Econo vegetable-tanned hides are South America—especially Brazil and surrounding countries—and in some cases Asia, depending on availability and market supply. These regions are major global suppliers of cattle hides used in mass-market leather production, which matches Tandy's focus on affordable, large-batch material for their Econo line. @chuck123wapati I agree Not helpful. Could have been worded a little differently. kgg

Hi everybody, Newbie here trying to sew pigskin. Singer 6700C machine with polyester upholstery thread and “leather sewing needles”. Thin pigskin about same thickness as poster paper. Problem is the thread starts shredding kind of and bunches up right before it goes thru the eye. It tries to lift the presser foot when the needle goes upstroke. Eventually it will choke if I keep going. Thanks, Dano

Calling the people trying to help you a peanut gallery probably won't help in getting your questions answered. Good luck with your problems.

Thank you, Bruce. I appreciate your input regarding the milky color. Most recently, it happened to be 2-3oz and 5-6oz econo veg tan from Tandy, probably Argentinian in origin, if I had to guess. (Before the peanut gallery chimes in dishing on their quality, it’s what I have available, and more importantly, it’s what I can afford…) As far as casing goes, I don’t believe there’s any problem with my process involved, only my execution. And I’m aware of it. Skill comes with practice, and im still learning the craft. These pieces I didn’t bother to clean first, and I only used a spray bottle of tap water, so it couldn’t have come from me. I had considered the possibility of it being something from the tanning process, but I also freely admit that I know nothing of the tanning process. I don’t know if I’m “glad” per se, but at least I know I’m not crazy, and someone else has also experienced this. — AZR

Hey - I forgot that I ever posted this. I should be able to post the manuals I've been able to find. On my way to work right now but will try to check once I'm home. I'm not certain of the exact model I have, but in my case the problems seem to have been partially due to the shuttle hook being extremely worn, the tip seems to have been repaired with brazing at some point. However, I discovered that it is nearly identical in size/shape to the one used in a Singer 29k, save for a few distinct differences. With some minor grinding & polishing, I was able to retrofit a Singer shuttle & the machine works perfectly now. I am also working on a CAD file for the bobbin shuttle & can post a 3D scanned version of the original. Cheers

They are some really beautiful pics . Not a bad way to test out the ' burb' . Yep, time passes by so quick . We often ask that question ' where has the time gone ? ' it will be Christmas soon. I had one of those Bavarian pork knuckles again, geez they're nice. Dad doesn't eat the crackling, more for me 😀 even the left overs are tasty. HS

That would look nice. Curly maple is awesome looking stuff

Curly maple grips with mahogany or padauk diamond accents would look nice. Love the colors on the leather work.

Yes, Obviously too wet when you are stamping and fluid squeezes out but I have had that milky fluid with some leathers. My thoughts are it is some of the oils and treatment in the leathers. Before we kick the can here, it happened mostly to me with Argentine vegtan leather from the Sadesa Tannery. Sadesa was some of the cleanest and finest leather I have tooled. Not all foreign leather is cheap urine smelling crap contrary to keyboard advice. Sadesa did not get as boardy after casing and tooling like some leathers do. The word was that it had more treatments. Casing is an art, but not rocket science. There are wipe and go/rewet as needed people, drown it and air it for a day people, and a lot of wet it/bag it, and set aside folks. Some good toolers wipe on something like saddle soap or baby shampoo and slick before tooling. My casing mix is milky to start with. Water- Lexol - baby shampoo - Listerine. Herman Oak and some others that tended to be "drier" I used more Lexol in the mix. This mix gave me more working time, better burnish, better molding, and more even oiling and dying afterwards. Everyone else's mileage will vary. If plain old water works - great. The bottom line is stay with a consistent leather tannage and learn what works with that leather. Then you aren't trying to figure out the moisture amount and time for even penetration on every new piece of leather you get.

That sounds like a big task. You should consider making a For Sale post over in The Marketplace: https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/71-items-for-sale/

Tanner's Bond and stitched, acrylic paint in the artwork.

If there is any liquid coming up from the leather while tooling the leather is still too wet. The top grain should almost be the same color as it was before you got it wet.

Thanks!

Very nice work!

I bought a Weaver 1 3/4 belt loop punch. The first one cracked at the edge. Replaced it with no problem. Been using this one for 3.5 years. doing well. just dod a holster and a mag pouch today. I run it on the strop occasionally to dress up the edge.

Ditto Chuck. I just case mine, and that is an overstatement. I really just get it wet until it quits soaking it up fast. But I only use 8/9 for the most part.

I have a complete leather shop to liquidate. Skiver, 3 commercial sewing machines, clicker press, laser cutter and much more .

@Ben C Thanks for offering it here. Per the Marketplace rules, we need a location, picture and an asking price. https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/71-items-for-sale/ Thanks

What did you clean it for, and what did you clean it with? its probably the soap.

Around the first of the year, I was just getting into leather working and only had one Flatbed, a Cowboy 797 then and now, I found I'm in that twilight zone of frequently needing a heavy duty stitcher for holsters etc and still a hobbyist, I couldn't afford or at least justify buying a Class 4 or a CB4500. Prior to purchasing my Seiko CW8-B, which will sew almost 3/8" with 138 thread, I bought a Weaver Cub, a second edition but steel model. From day one, I thought the learning curve was steeper than it ought to be but I got by with mostly so so results. The other day, it started twisting thread even on the first throw. I inspected it closely and found the drive cam which slightly parts the needle to the outside just before the hook pick up the thread had a bur deeper than I felt I could polish out without changing the profile too much to work properly. I called Weaver Machinery and spoke with John. He is fantastic by the way and quickly agreed to send me a replacement part, which costs me 50 bucks. Then came putting the lower shaft back in and getting it in time. After several days of trying and retrying, and I forget how many times I watched his video Steal Cub Timing, I failed. At the point I needed to pause to set the needle timing the think would throw with tremendous pressure and a clanking sound. The Cubs I watched on youtube didn't have that loud of a sound. About ready to give completely up, my wife suggested I dig deeper into the machine. So I pulled the Flywheel / crank wheel off and saw my first clue. The very radical cam has two set screws at 90 degrees. Neither were set at the two flat sides but rather were up on the corners. Not certain but it couldn't have been good. I readjusted the cam and torqued the heck out of those two hex screws so it won't move anytime soon. This quieted the machine down three or four fold and made it so much smoother to run, smoother than it's ever been since I've owned it. Now I wonder if the seller would have sold it if he had understood there was a simple issue. I share this so hopefully some other poor soul like me doesn't have to fight so long with one of these things. If there is anything hinky at all going on, pop off that fly wheel and make sure those cam screws are really tightened down. Cheers.

The same hide, or totally different hides? That at least isolates it to the hide or something you're doing.

Here's a link to the lazer from the manufacturers site: https://www.crealityfalcon.com/products/laser-engraver-cutter-falcon2-40w-engraving-machine Link to enclosure: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1354212243/laser-engraver-enclosure-includes-all?ref=yr_purchases And a link to the enclosure instructions: https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5ff105a30400f40890082114/t/671e5148325b0b69be92a256/1730040139458/Makergadgets+Professor+Instruction+Manual.docx.pdf

What type of leather are you using? I don't mean 'veg tan' but more specifically