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About bruce johnson
- Birthday 06/15/1960
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http://www.brucejohnsonleather.com
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Male
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Location
Oakdale, CA
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leather tools and history
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Leatherwork Specialty
Leather Tools
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everything
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Ive been here from about day one
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Kevin, I am sure not an expert but here is what works for me. I have a website, personal FB, business FB, IG page, and email list. The personal FB page mostly stays personal - what I eat, where I am out and about, not much business stuff. The business FB was kind of poorly maintained by me at the start - started off as leather work and transitioned to tools. I would add content every so often, but not regularly. Once I got on IG I linked the IG page and FB business pages so adding a post on IG automatically added it on the FB page. Over time I have gone to regular updates 5-7 days a week. The frequent updates definitely will drive you up the ladder on what shows on somebody's feeds. It is interesting, this week I have not updated in 5 or 6 days, busy with tools coming in and getting them ready for the Pendleton show in a couple weeks. With no social media/website updates, I have been getting 3-5 contacts the last few days asking if I am OK. (Yes I am, just busy this week in the background of this one man band). Website - the central focus of everything else I do is my website. That is the catalog of tools and resources. It is the most complete and current place I have. Granted I am bigger in inventory than most any leather business, but I look at a lot of business websites and the social media of my customers. I am truly curious what they make, level of experience, and a little more about them. Personal bias, but I feel like a website is pretty much a necessity to say "I am serious". They don't have to be fancy, just functional and some eye appeal. There are enough plug and play platforms out there that really it is not hard to set a website up. You may not get the search traffic right off or ever, but you have a place to lead people to from your social media for more information and likely to see things they didn't know they needed. The other thing is that websites don't follow the whims of social media. A few years ago it got tough for several people. Social Media went through a stretch that anything with the word "knife", "pistol", "gun", etc was a weapon and got taken down. OP got banned or a timeout for posting. People started spelling the key words out or incorrectly to get around it, calling holsters a pew-pew holder, no-go after about a week there after the social media enforcers caught up. (no reason to argue the reasons - it happened). Josh at Montana Knife lived it. He was growing on IG like crazy and then in about 2 days, they decimated that. He had enough following to lead them away for his updates and in the long run probably created more interest. Some knife and holster makers didn't have any websites to refer their customers. I was calling leather knives "leather reshaping and resizing tools" for a good while. I had one guy who didn't get it make the comment "That's a round knife idiot, don't you even know what it is?". Thanks to that comment I got a 10 day timeout. Instagram and FB business posts - Short regular posts often help more than a long post less frequently. I have a few reels and they go over well, but mostly I am adding still pictures of fresh tools added that day to the website. Personal FB - I try not overlap much and keep the business/personal separation line kind of there. My high school classmates, old horseshow friends, and old coworkers probably don't care about my latest round knives or splitters. However my business customers sometimes appreciate seeing a glimpse of my personal life. MailChimp - I have a sign up list for emails when I add new tools. Some people just don't do social media at all and some infrequently but want notifications. The nice thing about this is that they have to sign up but have the option later to opt out. That is an intentional act and shows some level of interest, not just clicking a post. MailChimp is who my website guy suggested and has been good. People sign up to receive emails from me. Whenever I add new website content, I send an email. You've all got them from other businesses. The nice thing about MailChimp is that they handle the legal stuff. There is an opt-out link on every email. They are generally recognized as a safe sender. When I would send out 30 emails from my regular email, I would end up as spam more often by some filters. Now my list is a little over 700 people and usually only 2-3 that aren't delivered. They have a separate SMS service that sends text updates as well. I had people ask for texts and looked into it. That is a whole different deal and much more regulated. There is not a flat rate, you buy credits per month. Someone local might be one credit per send, but someone internationally might be 3 credits. There is a legal time of day window for text deliveries and if you fall out of that, there are lawyers waiting. The SMS services allow for that but I don't want to be "that legal target" when the automatic send messes up and somebody gets a 3:00 am text.
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I am not going to be a lot of help. I watched the old man who taught me a lot do some stapled loops one afternoon. He was cutting the slit with a knife. I can't remember if it was angled, straight, or what. That was years ago and he has long since passed on. On a more helpful note...I was just thinking about getting a hold of you. I got some nice loop press dies in an estate shop purchase. There are probably about 40 of them. If you are interested send me an email. Thanks! - Bruce
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I'd say 9 mm just because that is what I've got and it makes ammo purchases easier. I do have one .380 Auto but opted out on putting that on my last CCW renewal. Todd, True enough and generally the higher they are up the food chain, the less they know or care. I had a guy come in with a high dollar belt several years ago and tell me the edges looked like s**t after a month of wear. At that time the maker was pretty well known. ( He posted one time three swipes and I'm done, that's all you need. I'd believe it.) It took me maybe 15 minutes time to burnish and I was going to charge him $15. He picked it up, tried to scratch the edge with his fingernail, and gave me $100 at a time when I needed it. He became one of my first discerning customers. Two using saddles, rope bag, purse for the wife, bunch of reins over several years. Every time he called I wondered if I screwed up something. Nope, another order. I saw him about 5 years ago. He said the belt was a daily wear then but the edges still look good except where the cell phone pocket clips on. Edges mattered to him and he still remembered that damn belt.
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First off this is kind of tongue in cheek, but I think about some of the guys gone-on. I learned a lot from them and some pretty good stories and history. One that sticks with me is whenever edges and treatments came up. Some of them were pretty hard boiled and others were "whatever". While it isn't as contentious as discussing religion, politics, or the best pickup, whatever we call edge working could bring up some pretty heady discussions with some of the viejos. It is interesting be on the sidelines of some of these discussions. The one camp said that burnishing was bonding the fibers to smooth them. Slicking was simply laying the fibers down without bonding. The other camp just called it all slicking or burnishing to goad the others into a fight. The strict say - Burnishing is usually done with heat with pressure to bond the fibers. Your leather needs the right moisture level much like casing and then apply some sort of pressure with heat to bond the fibers. Friction through either speed, pressure, and roughness of whatever you are rubbing with provides the heat. The other option would be using a burnishing iron. The fibers bond to each other and seal the edge. Most all will accept the hardwax edge done with rubbing or an iron to be called burnishing. Slicking - Simply laying down fibers but they don't bond to each other. We all know that you can't burnish most chrome tans well. We can make a smooth edge with pressure and some treatment and those strict interpreters call that slicking. This where apply soap, dressings, soft waxes comes to be called slicking by the hard liners - it is laying down and smoothing fibers but they don't bond to each other. Looks nice and smooth but doesn't last as long. It starts discussions when you say "I burnish the edges of my latigos". The strict ones will tell you that is not burnishing and for even saying such a statement you will now be tending fire for eternity instead of playing harp. Where are we at in the middle ground - no man's land? Is it slicking or it is burnishing? What about the old trick that used diluted white glue? That is bonding the leather and providing some heat from rubbing but is the glue cheating? There was the "Goodie Mix" that was a varied recipe of acrylic finish and Atom Wax. Bond and seal there and works well on chrome tans. Gum tragacanth, Tokonole, the commercial mixes? In the end - call it burnishing, call it slicking, call it what you want. I will be in services at the Blessed House of the Leather Edge Smoothers.
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When I got the Ferdco 2000 I was dumb and didn't think I needed two machines. Sold the Adler 205-64 for more than I paid for it - $2500 with table, stand, and 1st generation servo motor. I talked to a guy who bought one last year for $2700 - table and no motor. He was happy.
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Blevins buckle oxidation
bruce johnson replied to BlackDragon's topic in Saddle Identification, Restoration & Repair
Springfield Leather has them, K-S from Texas, - I didn't search it but likely a google search for "Stainless Steel stirrup buckle" would give you more. If you aren't married to the Blevins style buckles - Batz has the version originally called the Fast Buckle that Ben Veach developed, Toby Yoder at Ron's Tools has Farrow buckles, and Weaver and others likely still have the old Superior Quick Change buckles. -
Blevins buckle oxidation
bruce johnson replied to BlackDragon's topic in Saddle Identification, Restoration & Repair
That is actually kind of mild compared to some I have seen. I have replaced a few that one post was totally eroded off and the other was a nub. Unless they get the length changed, a lot of people never check. One advantage for the stainless steel knock-off makers. -
With a few recent topics on different tools and recommendations, it has come up that the "Resources" section of my website needs to get a mention. Tool Talk - this is kind of a blog/kind of my thoughts at a random time - https://brucejohnsonleather.com/links-resources/tool-talk Tutorials - Here are articles on choosing a particular tool and using tools. These can be read on the browser or downloaded as PDFs. - https://brucejohnsonleather.com/links-resources/tutorials Historical Catalogs and Information - Old tool maker catalogs and some dating back to the 1800's - PDF format for downloads - https://brucejohnsonleather.com/links-resources/historical-catalogs-and-information Leather Tool Makers and History - the page that started it all and a carry-over from my last website version - https://brucejohnsonleather.com/links-resources/leather-tool-makers-and-history Leather Worker Links - links to magazines, forums and websites, video and podcasts. - https://brucejohnsonleather.com/links-resources/leatherworker-links
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I have added two new knives to the website that I am stocking. These are the new fixed handle round knives from Jeremiah Watt at Horse Shoe Brand Tools. The steel is the same steel used in the original Gomph knives and the handles are laminated birch. I made a small order to start and tested one. Out of the box it was the sharpest on my edge tester of anything close in price, the only knives that test sharper are three times the cost. I did final edge sharpening, tested it and then used it on leather, then whittled some wood with it. It stropped right back to within 2 points on the sharpness tester. Needless to say I ordered more and have them stocked. I think these are the best price point knives available. These knives come in 4 inch and 3 inch widths - handy sizes and not intimidating. Handles have a nice size and shape. The price is $95, and all I sell are final sharpened by me. They carry my "Buy from me, I resharpen for free" - the same as all the other tools I sell. They are on my website on the Horse Shoe Brand Tools page of the new tool section and also on the "Knives" page. Here is a link to the website - https://brucejohnsonleather.com/ Thank you!
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Removing double sided tape glue residue?
bruce johnson replied to memhave's topic in How Do I Do That?
Sanding belt cleaner - it is a crepe rubber block available at about every hardware store. It is the same as the glue erasers that the craft stores sell except about 100 times bigger for about 2 bucks more. -
Here ya go - they all ship every day. Oregon - Maverick Leather in Bend - worth the drive no matter where you live in OR just to see what all they have - https://maverickleathercompany.com/?s=harness+leather&post_type=product&wps-title=1&wps-excerpt=1&wps-content=1&wps-categories=1&wps-attributes=1&wps-tags=1&wps-sku=1&ixwps=1&_gl=1*4kuqv*_up*MQ..*_gs*MQ..&gclid=CjwKCAjwi4PHBhA-EiwAnjTHuRHS2rCUXiF0-aFPMVKTHpXv6pcWsXCieexGJyJ2nLQp4AQLcT9L7hoCxQAQAvD_BwE&gbraid=0AAAAAp5_iBoDKVnVemCTq9k8gNZoN4eEn . Montana - Montana Leather in Billings - We stay overnight in Billings on trips through just so Rundi can buy leather and I buy assorted parts, punching pad material, and stuff that I didn't see the last time. https://www.montanaleather.com/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ppc&utm_campaign=Branded&utm_term=montana leather company&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=1693802091&gbraid=0AAAAADRa0hbBL1qP6RO9Hq3Mkg58FONo7&gclid=CjwKCAjwi4PHBhA-EiwAnjTHuSxxfKuhlG64-vkBkBLaJSirb51pUPxYPSkhuALrcxa7Mrnpaa3K8RoCXEgQAvD_BwE&mot_q=harness Texas - Panhandle Leather in Amarillo, haven't been there but reputation is A#1. - https://www.panhandleleather.com/collections/leather/products/hermann-oak-harness-leather?variant=44642698494211
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My general impression is that a single blade and a basic Craftool knife eventually trade hands for around $50. That is perfect with no chips. Sometimes you will find the right buyer who will give $60-$70. It looks like from the pictures one of the straight blades is chipped. If so, that makes it a part of the team but sitting at the end of the bench. Two good blades - I'd think expect $80-$100.
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Fortuna Leather Splitter not turning on.
bruce johnson replied to Morgan311's topic in Leather Machinery
My first call would be to Campbell-Randall. They are on here as a member but you will get faster results calling them. -
Part of the process of tanning is adding back oils/fats and one of the treatments is called fat-liquor. From what I read - not a single substance but various sorts of sulfonated oils depending on tannery. I was told years ago that sulfonated neatsfoot oil was one of them - one of the major ingredients in Lexol leather conditioner. The reason that the historic casing mix recipe I was given contains Lexol conditioner.
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Yes, Obviously too wet when you are stamping and fluid squeezes out but I have had that milky fluid with some leathers. My thoughts are it is some of the oils and treatment in the leathers. Before we kick the can here, it happened mostly to me with Argentine vegtan leather from the Sadesa Tannery. Sadesa was some of the cleanest and finest leather I have tooled. Not all foreign leather is cheap urine smelling crap contrary to keyboard advice. Sadesa did not get as boardy after casing and tooling like some leathers do. The word was that it had more treatments. Casing is an art, but not rocket science. There are wipe and go/rewet as needed people, drown it and air it for a day people, and a lot of wet it/bag it, and set aside folks. Some good toolers wipe on something like saddle soap or baby shampoo and slick before tooling. My casing mix is milky to start with. Water- Lexol - baby shampoo - Listerine. Herman Oak and some others that tended to be "drier" I used more Lexol in the mix. This mix gave me more working time, better burnish, better molding, and more even oiling and dying afterwards. Everyone else's mileage will vary. If plain old water works - great. The bottom line is stay with a consistent leather tannage and learn what works with that leather. Then you aren't trying to figure out the moisture amount and time for even penetration on every new piece of leather you get.