Trox

A BUSM #4

Some black dye are containing iron, that is an early method of making black leather dye. Or some tanning chemicals may be magnetic. As mentioned before a piece of steel could be inside the leather. Some steel rubbed off inside the holster, like the black on the stropping board after polishing. Or its just the surface stats sticking to it.

Nice job! I was going to ask you about the weldability of the Pfaff cast iron, but you didn't weld that; it was a Singer part you welded. Related to you questions about the stitch length, I assume you know there must be an "N" in your subclass number if it's a 6 mm max stitch length machine. N=6 mm maximum stitch length. There are plenty of pictures of your subclass plate but their resolution are to bad, I can't read it. If you do not already have the 345 H3 service manual I can share that with you. I has no pictures and they use some special "gouge" parts for adjustment, these are listed in the last pages of the part list. When you adjust this machine you got to do control all adjustments in chronological order. About the special Pfaff adjustment gouge parts we do not have access to: To measure the needle bar lift I use a caliper and the needle bar lock just a hose clamp etc. Let me know if you need the service manual, I've shared it here before.

It's an option on all motors if you want the needle to stop down or up when you heel the pedal, it must be down. But you won't get this to stop where's supposed to with a speed reducer. It's bases on a 360° rotation with a belt direct to the machines pulley. Expensive position motor controllers can account for belt slippage, but no system will calculate for an extra belt and two pulleys. There aren't any motors that can do that. I've seen some have put the synchronizer head on the speed reducer instead of the machine handwheel. But still it will not be accurate. Luckily these motors will work without the syncro head. Expensive motor systems like Efka won't run without a synchronizer. But on Chinese cheap motors the syncro head is just a 15$ extra. Most of these systems aren't accurate anyway. It's important that these systems are accurate, it has to stop at exactly the same place/degree of the revolution every time. It's when the needle has past it's lowest position and picked the bobbin thread. If it stops earlier and you raise the foot to turn your work a stitch will be skipped. To late and the needle is out of the work. I know the earliest Chinese designes wasn't any good, but they should have been able to figure this out by now. German motor brands have use this system since the 1970 ties. The problem is that accurate servo systems are expensive to make. Accurate speed controls too. There are enough power in these motors, people put speed reducers on them to get better speed control. With the price of the reducer and motor combined your not far from what a proper motor system costs.

Thanks but he don't need that part fixed, it's just a extra feature for handicapped people who can't lift more than 200 grams. Nothing wrong with handicapped people, but it's not worth using time fixing; this the machine will work just fine without it. Most machines doesn't have this feature, anyway. I won't use anymore time on this.

I try to explain this again. You do not need to change this lever (pic 1) Just run a chain from the lever true the hole in the base, see arrow pic 1. Drill a corresponding hole in the table and run a chain to the pedal. Pic 2: I don't know where you found this underlined part, it looks like it fits so it's probably the same. If you find it that's great, if not it's simple to make. If it's to long or to short, modify it. I would just make it, that would be much faster than even write a post about it. Pic 3: You see this isn't the same presser foot lifting lever/arm as on our machines, so you can't use the angle iron part from this one without changing the arm/lever to. The design is changed, I would think the one in my part list is a later design; because it allows a height adjustment. Just use the arm in pic 1 you already have.. You don't need the geared linkage who's probably there to making it easier to lift with a knee lever lift. It's not necessary! Not even if you have a knee lifter, it's not a heavy lift. There is nothing wrong with your presser foot lifting lever/arm!? You don't need messing with that geared assisted linkage, there are plenty of Pfaff machines that didn't come with that extra feature.

I agree, I've been saying the same thing. If the country his searching in was all other than Poland. I would say; save your phone fare. It could be he finds something there. Otherwise buy that H2, that's would be the cheapest option. depended of how far it has to be shipped of course. Older Pfaff parts are expensive and he could use much from such a machine.

Here are the binder parts. The binder plate attachment to the right in pic 2, I've made myself. The syncro plate in pic 3 is Pfaff. Pfaff quoted me these parts some 10 years back and they wanted 1100 USD for the needle plate, feed dog and syncro plate. That's was about 10 years ago, imagine what they will cost today ( if they're available) Anyway, A friend gifted me the feed dog, the small binder and the back foot. Binders, front foot are Kwokhing. These parts where available then, I've haven't had the need for anymore Pfaff parts, so I don't know what's available today. Older Pfaff parts are very expensive, that's why I brought up the donor machine option. It could be that many of the parts you need are the same on other Pfaff model's. Old 335, 145 and 545 have the same upper arm, I believe some of the postbed models also have.

Here are som pics from back if machine. Quality is what expected when there's limit space behind it, Im not moving it out from the wall to get better pictures. This is the needle plate this came with, the binder parts are extras.

You are not the only one that writes to me for advise, I do the best I can on my time off. I this is the only 345 H3 partlist I got. That's the only one I've seen. I see that the part # 91-010 378-45 isn't in the document. That's because the pdf is newer or older that the machine, they've changed the foot lift arm and use the parts in the pic below instead. If the document are older or newer than our machines, I don't know. I doubt your able to find any of these parts new anyway. That means you have to search for the # 91-010 378-45 instead. If your going to use the other parts in the partlist below, you also have to change the arm. Alternately drill and tap for the new part. You just got to get what you find. All the geared levers in the pic 1 isn't necessary, don't use time on them; just run a chain directly from the end of the arm you have to a pedal. If you find them it's a bonus. The other parts you need are in the part list. In the world of industrial sewing machines, machines get changed all the time. Part lists gets updated by the producer only when it's supported. This machine is now obsolete, they don't support it any more and they're not obligated stock part for it anymore. Today Pfaff doesn't have anything for these of machines, the only ones that has something for them are companies like College I.s.m. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/parts-books/pfaff-parts-books.html (They have pdf, aftermarket parts like hooks, feet's and common wear part) When it comes to what feed dog it is in your machine, that's depending of those last numbers in your subclass number. It's the same feed dog in mine. You best hope is to find a donor machine, non of the parts your looking for are made anymore. It shouldn't be to difficult to make these parts, the hand lifter and the angle iron can easily be made from a piece of flat iron, just som cutting drilling and filing. I believe your goal are to get it sewing, not get it in showroom condition. If your lucky to find some parts, be prepared to modify them to fit. That's how we all have to do it. Maybe you find something in Poland, if anywhere in the world that would be the best place to look yes. Good luck Tor

5ao8mf6d.pdf

I have big trouble sharing/uploading stuff here today, I'm on my phone. Guess I'm out of practice, I spend most of my time online on Facebook. However the subclass is H3-17/01 it's set up for regular binding. This is a list of gouge parts and the numbers refers to what feet's, needle plate and equipment it's set up with. It's not easy to get a overview over Pfaff's old codes and sewing equipment numbers. I don't think there are anybody working in Pfaff today that know these anymore. Pfaff sent me these manuals and lists years ago. I've done my best to share it with you people in this forum. Do you have the 345-H3 part list? All the parts are listed in that part list. The presser bar lifting lever/arm in your pic isn't the right one for the 345-H3. It's a intricate system of lever's that makes a geared presser bar lift. But you don not necessarily need all of that. They are there to make it easier to lift. There are also a hole in the base head that can accommodate a chain for a regular un assisted lift. You better show us a pic of the backside, it's easier to see it for ourselves. You better hope you will find a donor machine, if these parts should still be available; they will cost you more than a new Chinese machine.

Here is the subclass listkgi582aa.pdf

Okay du er Norsk ja where are you located? You know the needle system and you can recognize other differences if you study the manual. Skinnlåven sells bonded nylon in USA sizes yes (not cheap though) Amatec selling Gütterman thread, C.Hemsen Oslo have Serafil polyester and are number one in leather prices. (They also have that nice French Fil au Chinois, for hand stitching) The cheapest threads are sold by T. Plassen, Aman Serafil, Coats and Gütterman. Let me know how that works out. Tor

Yes Volvo made good cars, I still drives a Volvo. I have vintage one too, but I'm not very active with that hobby for the moment. Sewing machines and cars have much in common, you got to learn how to use and maintain them. Just pressing the pedal will only get you so far. If your interested in what your doing, you will obtain the knowledge you need to manage them.

You do not need any manuals when you got Uwe!

Okay, when the foot presses the material down the feed dog will catch the material even when it doesn't prolong over the plate. But if it's above needle plate level it will for sure interfer. It goes just back and forth, not in a square like a normal bottom feed. First it feeds the right way and then when the stitch is made, it's feed it back again. For leather work it's the needle feed that's important, alternating pressers are there to climb different levels but the lower feed isn't that important. It just make marks in the leather anyway, but it's serves a purpose as a lower needle guide. It makes sure the needle doesn't bend away from the shuttle, causing skipped stitches. But just lower it a millimeter or two below the needle plate. Let me know how that worked out for you. Tor

Your feed dog interferes with your material feed, you got to lower it. I haven't read the hole topic but I see this is a H2 machine with binding feed. You just have to lower the feed dog so it doesn't prolongs above the needle plate. 1 mm. belove the plate level is good. Then you can't use those thick threads in this machine, I wonder how you where able to thread it true the needle bar's lower thread guide. A 110 needle is a Tex 40 to 69 thread size. A Nm 120 needle is a Tex 69 thread size. A 145 H2 is one of the smallest sub classes, it doesn't like those thick threads. Just thread it with a new needle (110 or 120) with correct thread size and drop the feed dog, adjust it so it doesn't interfer with the feeding. That's why you get the feed back on the stitch regulator lever. I have a 345 H3 myself with the same feed, I remember that's what happened to me before I realized it had a binding feed, the first time I used it. Just adjust the feed dog, lower it so it doesn't interfer with the feeding. It's there to propel a synchronized binder. Tor

The TEX 207 is a European (TKT) 10/3 and the minimum needle size for that is a Nm180 needle. No wonder you get a mess out of that. Your maximum needle size is 160 that's a Tex 90 to 95, European sizes 15/3 who is the parameters Dürkopp Adler is using in their manuals. If you use a thick thread on top you can use one size thinner in the bobbin, not several sizes thinner. From a 69 to a 207 there are several sizes, it won't work. The thread has to pass freely true the needle eye. Read the topic " Neat Trix for Needle Sizing" pinned on the top of this forum. When I sew leather I always try to use the smallest needle possible for the thread size, for better stitch apperence. But the thread must fit the long groove in the needle and pass freely true it's eye. Good luck! Tor

Hi, I do have a DA 267-373, great little machine. I use for upholstery and light leather w. The largest needle I have for it is a 160. But a rarely use other than 120 and 140 in it. I would say 160 is maximum. I never tried any bigger, that wouldn't work well. (I have bigger machines for those thicker threads). Like Kgg says above, you have to check the number on its plate to see what sub class it is (the number after 268). I see there are only two machines out of 30 sub classes that uses a 180 needle and non of them are using the longer 135 -34 needle. They're using the shorter 134 needle and that tells me these two sub classes are for stitching shoe soles. Post a pic of the number plate and check the manual. DA would always be a little conservative with the needle sizes, so you can probably go up to a 160. That's a metric 15/3 thread, I believe that's a TEX 138. Always check that the needle doesn't hit the shuttle when you try a bigger needle. The machine is adjusted to be used within these stated sizes, so there is always a risks for errors pushing it. Aka birds nest, broken needles, clutch release etc. Tor

What about needle position? Then you can go stitch by stitch

100 rpm is the slowest maximum speed. You can go slower on the pedal, I would not recommend using a speed reducer. Use a needle position instead, needle position will not work with a reduser. And the motor setup will be way to strong with an reducer, you can break the hook (there are no safety clutch) The extra belt and tension with a reducer makes it sometimes harder to control. Because you need more power to start turning the machine. I think it will be perfect as it is now. I have a reducer on mine, that's just to much for such machine. That's the setup for s 441 type of machine.

Nice work! You would not need s reducer on this setup, just a small pulley on the motor.

Interesting old thread about gouging a stitch line in straps that has to endure heavy strain. I do have have special pressers on my sewing machines that's sets the stitch deep. On my 441 I have foot that has a profile that makes a channel for the stitches. On my Busm/Pearson N⁰6 I have pricking feet's that does the same job, Only wish I had more sizes of them thought. If someone has any for sale please let me know. Thanks Tor

College is a great company, but I don't think they are a Dürkopp Adler dealer. They have some parts but not all the parts as DA are obligated to have.