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Trox

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Everything posted by Trox

  1. Hi, I've owned and sold a few of these Adler class 5. This is the 5-27 with a following jump foot and bottom feed. I consider it the best of the 5 class for sewing leather. But still you are buying a obsolete model with only bottom feed, the only part available for this today is the shuttle. (Read post about what you need sewing leather etc.) Okay, being in good condition you probably won't need anything else for years to come. As the price on Asian made heavy triple feeds economical solution's continues to drop, so does the values of these. Without any pictures is hard to put a value on such machine, and you get a servo motor for a little over 100€ today. I've seen them sold from 50 to 1000 € depending of who sold them, condition and equipment. Post a picture and check the shuttle wear (if it still can tension thinner threads). If it's been little used the original black paint will not have wear signs from materials etc. Repainted, stay away until closely checked by sewing technical. Shuttle new is 150 to 400€. (Knock off to original) Try sewing with it! Don't offer anything before you checked if you can sew with a 160 needle and corresponding thread thickness. It will sew and tension that thread fine if the shuttle is in good condition. You don't buy a car or a sewing machine from a stranger without testing it first. Price is also depended of what's available in you local marked. Good luck! Tor
  2. Nice, but it's a user manual not a service/adjustment manual.
  3. I missed a little bit on the angle of the guide, therefore I just made it adjustable
  4. I just took a piece of aluminum and made my own bracket and ordered a long guide. Anyway, I really hate the hand lifter on the 411; why couldn't they place it on the top like on the Adler machines.
  5. http://www.kwokhing.com/da/ you just have to browse true their web site. All these guides attach the same but you need and adaptor/bracket unique to your machine. If you are going to use it on a 441 clone check with Uwe´s solution. Otherwise you can make your own bracket out a piece of aluminum like I did. perhaps they now sell a 441 bracket, ask them. Good luck!
  6. Nice! I heard you can smooth the surface of the ABS plastic with aceton, does it work
  7. Hi, I have had several requests for service manuals for old Pfaff 345 and 335 machines. So here is what I have avaiable for these machines. For the Pfaff 345 here is a download link to the partlist, subclass list and service manual, link is valid for 30 days. https://rushfiles.one/client/publiclink.aspx?id=n5JAdmYzGl For the new 335 casting machine you are supported by Pfaff industrial https://www.pfaff-industrial.com/en/support/downloads/technical/documentsearch For the old 335 you can use this general service manual for several similar contruction Pfaff classes. https://rushfiles.one/client/publiclink.aspx?id=VSZEdZXfUv The old service manuals are without pictures and many terms can be difficult to understand. However, the new 335 service manual is good illustrated and can be used as a reference in addition to the old. Just change the parameters to the correct ones from the old manuals. I hope this will help. Thanks Tor
  8. Send me an PM with your email and I can send you the manuals Tor
  9. Hello Ironbridge, if you get this message I'm interested Ed in buying some alphabet letter types from you. Can't read the Korean language, Thought. Do you ship to Norway or USA, Thanks Tor
  10. Okay, I see it's a company name on it now...Looking nice this machine too. Does it have a adjustable slide table too? nice! How many watts heating element and does it have a price tag, Thanks
  11. Looking like a nice setup you have here. Is it made this way or have you refurbished your self, what kind of letter does it takes. Thanks
  12. Round knife looks like a Gomph, Blanchard alo used the same ferule but mostly on their plough knifes..Most likely a Gomph.. But if you wire brush/clean the tools you would see the maker stamps on them and be able to identify them.
  13. Well, can't see there are any difficulties getting part or feets for this machine. I you still have trouble let me know and I shoot you a couple of links.
  14. Sorry, I now see its an old add, just curious about the brand of it, thanks
  15. Hi, is that plough gauge sold yet? Does it have that same tassel mark on the plough as on the knife. Thanks
  16. Im currently restoring a UK made John Marshall hotfoil press, changing wires and making a table with guides for leather etc. I' looking for a cheap supplier of heat conducting double sided tape.. for taping brass and magnesium stamps to machine head. Regarding the above post, I don' find it difficult to find suppliers of stamps, but I have trouble producing the required data files they want for the disign. I got some tips about software used to design, but I find this very difficult to do....I have a enough projects...I do not want to spend months learning to use crappy computer programs...tried them on Android ( the platform I use for now) and they are very difficult to use and draw on....Every stamp manufactory just want to cnc or or cast from computer vectors.....No wonder the Stamps are cheap. I would like to draw up on a piece of paper what I want and have a company to smoohing up/editing and make my finished stamp. I have aways used computers since the 1980, but the programs the stamp manufacturers recommnd on android ist a pain in the ......Simplector Pro.. It goes like every other modern program, (the new trend) they want to slim program down but all they do in the process is removing possibilities......make it more difficult use......like crappy mobile websites.....I never though this long lasting hotfoil press project of mine would be stalled by a BL...computer program...
  17. 27 £ at college sewing machine https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/store/CPHAD68-BOBBIN-CASE-CAP-ADLER-68-HIROSE Not expensive made by Japanese Hirose...they make good parts
  18. Hi, Yes s Uwe yours have just groves that makes it harder to get tight tension on thin threads. His is worn right true and would cause problems, I would have changed that bobbin house for a new one...You can get them aftermarket for a good price.. You could try to widen/make the hole round again with a small diamond round file or simmilar..But remember it has to be polished afterwards...Use a white ceramic thin stone....
  19. Yes these are important factors, you will get a more consistent top tension threading true several holes. You probably got to ease of on the thread brake, thought. When you the thread knot laying on the top and it suddenly happens in the middle of the seam, those are factors I would have looked out for. Could be caused by uneven bobbin winding or bobbin case opener too, but then perhaps more frequently and probrably with the knot on the bottom. However, everything must be correct...check all thread paths for chips in the metal etc. Good luck!
  20. When something like this happens it' often because the top thread suddenly get a brake or bottom bobbin is uneven winded. To make the top thread tension stabil you need to make sure of the following factors.... On the thread rack...(use left twisted thread, it usual left twisted) the thread guide on top of the spool must be placed exactly over the center of the thread spool/cone... If it off center you will have uneven top thread tension. Make sure you thread it true at least two holes in the top pin post guide....you can even apply more tension by use several holes....this way you will have a stabil top tension....Bobbins must also be evenly winded... good luck!
  21. How are you Macca, I now know I this is a Pfaffrath plough and a Otto Langenhan knife. I traded it with a friend in USA that have the rest of the Langenhan plough. Tor
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