Trox

Hi Sallis, I do have the same manual as Constabulary has..German. Don't think there are any English ones out there. The German one have good illustrations. Your machine is a bottom feed with roller foot and was made for leatherwork when new. The needle system is Schmetz 328 LR but you can of course use other 328 needle points..LL, D and spear point (round) Sizes listed in manual goes from Nm 100 to 300, but it's only a couple subclasses that take the biggest needle. Practically it will sew with needles from Nm 160 to 250, perhaps 280. Needle to thread chart: Nm160 is for thread tkt 20 Nm 180 for tkt 15 thread Nm 200 for tkt 10 thread Nm 230 for tkt 8 thread Nm 250 and 280 for tkt 6 thread If you can find that thick thread or linen 18/6 thread. Linen threads: Needle Nm180 for 25/3 and 4 cord or 18/3 cord Nm 200 for 18/3 and 4 cord Nm 230 for 18/4 and 5 cord Nm 250 for 18/6 cord Nm 280 for 18/6 cord Nm 300 for 18/7 cord That's the linen thread table I doubt it will take the thickest threads above tkt 8 and 18/5. The adjusted needle, normal needle your machine will perform best with is a 200 tkt 8 thread (the needle your machine is adjusted to work with). The 160 and smaller will be to long and thin, easily bend away from the hook and cause skipped stitches. The thicker 250 to 300 will easily get birds nests in your bobbin. The thicker needle could also get to close to the hook tip, hitting it and damage your shuttle. Always try turning by hand first when using big needles, check that it will not hit the shuttle tip. Normal problems with these are worn groves in bobbin and tension spring, causing insufficient bobbin tension. Worn broken bobbin tension adjustment screws etc. The original cl. 5 small open shuttle is now obsolete so you can't find part for it. You have to buy a new small closed shuttle, DA part # 0005 002904. Price is between 400 to 100 Euro, original to aftermarket. The new closed shuttle will fit and is not to be confused with the similar Singer 45 K shuttle, that are often sold to fit the class 5 by after marked dealers. It's a difference between them on the hook tip. If your shuttle is good and tension thinner threads not much else can be broken on these machines. Pic #3 shows the original (now obsolete) small open Adler shuttle that came with the machine. Original part #05 195 (not sold anymore, replaced with DA # 0005 002904) Of course the hole machine is now obsolete and parts not available anymore. But some parts from the newer generation 105-64 that still are supported will fit your machine. You motor looks to be a Kobold slow speed clutch motor. I will be easy to sew slow on thinner materials but when you try on thick stuff it may struggle to keep at a slow pace. You could install a speed reducer gear pulleys or change it to a servo motor, or both. These are quality machines but will of course mark up the backside of your leather by the feed dog. Try release the foot pressure and help the feed by hand (in the right moment only) Use water , a bone folder or a saddlers hammer to smooth out markings at once they are made. Good luck with it! Tor

What is wrong with your shuttle, the broken screw? that screw can be easily replaced and you can buy a new spring too.

Hi, I've owned and sold a few of these Adler class 5. This is the 5-27 with a following jump foot and bottom feed. I consider it the best of the 5 class for sewing leather. But still you are buying a obsolete model with only bottom feed, the only part available for this today is the shuttle. (Read post about what you need sewing leather etc.) Okay, being in good condition you probably won't need anything else for years to come. As the price on Asian made heavy triple feeds economical solution's continues to drop, so does the values of these. Without any pictures is hard to put a value on such machine, and you get a servo motor for a little over 100€ today. I've seen them sold from 50 to 1000 € depending of who sold them, condition and equipment. Post a picture and check the shuttle wear (if it still can tension thinner threads). If it's been little used the original black paint will not have wear signs from materials etc. Repainted, stay away until closely checked by sewing technical. Shuttle new is 150 to 400€. (Knock off to original) Try sewing with it! Don't offer anything before you checked if you can sew with a 160 needle and corresponding thread thickness. It will sew and tension that thread fine if the shuttle is in good condition. You don't buy a car or a sewing machine from a stranger without testing it first. Price is also depended of what's available in you local marked. Good luck! Tor

Nice, but it's a user manual not a service/adjustment manual.

I missed a little bit on the angle of the guide, therefore I just made it adjustable

I just took a piece of aluminum and made my own bracket and ordered a long guide. Anyway, I really hate the hand lifter on the 411; why couldn't they place it on the top like on the Adler machines.

http://www.kwokhing.com/da/ you just have to browse true their web site. All these guides attach the same but you need and adaptor/bracket unique to your machine. If you are going to use it on a 441 clone check with Uwe´s solution. Otherwise you can make your own bracket out a piece of aluminum like I did. perhaps they now sell a 441 bracket, ask them. Good luck!

Ordered one

Nice! I heard you can smooth the surface of the ABS plastic with aceton, does it work

Hi, I have had several requests for service manuals for old Pfaff 345 and 335 machines. So here is what I have avaiable for these machines. For the Pfaff 345 here is a download link to the partlist, subclass list and service manual, link is valid for 30 days. https://rushfiles.one/client/publiclink.aspx?id=n5JAdmYzGl For the new 335 casting machine you are supported by Pfaff industrial https://www.pfaff-industrial.com/en/support/downloads/technical/documentsearch For the old 335 you can use this general service manual for several similar contruction Pfaff classes. https://rushfiles.one/client/publiclink.aspx?id=VSZEdZXfUv The old service manuals are without pictures and many terms can be difficult to understand. However, the new 335 service manual is good illustrated and can be used as a reference in addition to the old. Just change the parameters to the correct ones from the old manuals. I hope this will help. Thanks Tor

Send me an PM with your email and I can send you the manuals Tor

Hello Ironbridge, if you get this message I'm interested Ed in buying some alphabet letter types from you. Can't read the Korean language, Thought. Do you ship to Norway or USA, Thanks Tor

Round knife looks like a Gomph, Blanchard alo used the same ferule but mostly on their plough knifes..Most likely a Gomph.. But if you wire brush/clean the tools you would see the maker stamps on them and be able to identify them.

And I love those plates too, using them for my creasing machine table I'm building soon.

Very nice job Uwe!

Well, can't see there are any difficulties getting part or feets for this machine. I you still have trouble let me know and I shoot you a couple of links.

Sorry, I now see its an old add, just curious about the brand of it, thanks

Hi, is that plough gauge sold yet? Does it have that same tassel mark on the plough as on the knife. Thanks

Im currently restoring a UK made John Marshall hotfoil press, changing wires and making a table with guides for leather etc. I' looking for a cheap supplier of heat conducting double sided tape.. for taping brass and magnesium stamps to machine head. Regarding the above post, I don' find it difficult to find suppliers of stamps, but I have trouble producing the required data files they want for the disign. I got some tips about software used to design, but I find this very difficult to do....I have a enough projects...I do not want to spend months learning to use crappy computer programs...tried them on Android ( the platform I use for now) and they are very difficult to use and draw on....Every stamp manufactory just want to cnc or or cast from computer vectors.....No wonder the Stamps are cheap. I would like to draw up on a piece of paper what I want and have a company to smoohing up/editing and make my finished stamp. I have aways used computers since the 1980, but the programs the stamp manufacturers recommnd on android ist a pain in the ......Simplector Pro.. It goes like every other modern program, (the new trend) they want to slim program down but all they do in the process is removing possibilities......make it more difficult use......like crappy mobile websites.....I never though this long lasting hotfoil press project of mine would be stalled by a BL...computer program...

27 £ at college sewing machine https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/store/CPHAD68-BOBBIN-CASE-CAP-ADLER-68-HIROSE Not expensive made by Japanese Hirose...they make good parts

Hi, Yes s Uwe yours have just groves that makes it harder to get tight tension on thin threads. His is worn right true and would cause problems, I would have changed that bobbin house for a new one...You can get them aftermarket for a good price.. You could try to widen/make the hole round again with a small diamond round file or simmilar..But remember it has to be polished afterwards...Use a white ceramic thin stone....

Yes these are important factors, you will get a more consistent top tension threading true several holes. You probably got to ease of on the thread brake, thought. When you the thread knot laying on the top and it suddenly happens in the middle of the seam, those are factors I would have looked out for. Could be caused by uneven bobbin winding or bobbin case opener too, but then perhaps more frequently and probrably with the knot on the bottom. However, everything must be correct...check all thread paths for chips in the metal etc. Good luck!