Trox

The lasting pliers most certainly have a makers mark to it. Looks English or German, but so many made these. Just because the box is found in Japan, the tools doesn't have to be Japanese. The awl handles looks to be English beech wood, pattern is similar to Geo Barnsley. You can hardly find a shoe maker shop without any of his tools. Yes the tools looks to be own by a shoemaker. Saws looks Japanese style, would have been used to make wooden sandals and last's. What's look like a pricking iron is a distance maker, used to guide an awl to uniform distance by laying it flat on the work surface. Shoemakers used these, but it also could be use to spread glue. Would perhaps been a little dirtier, traces of glue etc. I see sheet metal shears, for cutting soles perhaps. Some repurposed feeler gouges (car mechanical/machinist tools) looks like distance makers too. But the photo is to blur to tell. Those draw markers might have been used to measure the lenght of a foot or copy a pattern on to leather. There are heal and sole creasers that only a shoemaker would buy. Take some close up of makers marks on them for more info. Tor

Love that tractor seat treadle. Was there not a longer arm version, thought I saw one for sale the other day. I've heard they are hard to get parts for. Tor

I agree with Constabulary on this. The Pfaff is a very old machine with expensive spareparts. Looks to have had a air cylinder pneumatic reverse perhaps. That might have been in a factory set up, looks painted too. The Juki is a quiet modern machine although it looks similar. Bigger bobbin is a plus, these 563's are also very well made. Of course the Pfaff is too, but its a very old machine by now. Also, Im not sure if the Pfaff has a hook safety's clutch. The Pfaff 1245 has that but I don't think this one has it. That's an very important issue. Tor

No worries. I don't think I have any sewing machine foot I didn't have to modify.

To use the synchronized binder your machine got to have binder feed (feed dog that just go back and forth, no upwards movement) But of course you know that already. Tor

Well there is a way of adjusting the needle bar and the feed dog to each other, but they are already perfectly in the middle where they suppose to be. The problem is the feet's aren't accurately made, they need modification. You wouldn't have to do those adjustment's every time you change a foot. Tor

Here is one I made for my Pfaff back in 2013. I stamped the date in it that's how I remember The one to the right is a propelled synchronized model, original Pfaff with the feed dog and binding foot. It attach with the coil spring under the screw (top right corner) so it moves with the feed dog. The set contains a special needle plate not in the picture. As binding reel I use my Lazy Susan rotating nail cup, to the cocourtesy of of Peter Main. His idea to use the nail cup for such purpose, works great. Tor

Yea that's typically Hohsing aftermarket feet's. Make the inner foot a little thinner with your grinder/file etc. And turn it to center the needle in the hole. Tor

You can't move the needle bar no. Just up and down and it will screw up the machines needle hook timing. You can only move the inner foot, but make sure the outer foot are in the right place before tightening the set screw. Its on a square bar but still there can be some wiggling there. Are those aftermarket feet's? My experience is that most feet's needs a little modification before they fit perfectly. However, your needle might also be bent. Put in a new one in to check. It's common to see aftermarket feet's looking like that, Hohsing feet's always looks like that. I think I almost had to modify every one I bought from them. But a genuine DA foot will set you back several hundred dollars each, its worth a little tweaks getting them as cheap as these. Tor

In Dictionary of leather-working tools, c 1700-1950 and tools of allied trades by R.A. Salaman. You will see various old tools made for edges. Picture is from the book and shows plate from the "Encyclopedia of Diderot and D'Alembert, Paris c. 1760". Fig #5 shows a edge slicking tool. It proves such techniques where uses way before that book came out. There are evidence of edge finishing leather in bookbinding back in the fifteenth and sixteenth century. Not much antique foot or horse leather are preserved for us to look at. But old books are been taken care of and preserved. The above dictionary comes in to this subjects of several occasions. Edges wad weak points and where creased/ compressed and must certainly closed of when necessary way back in history.

Nice hammer, what are those rivet's for? Is there a tang inside going all the way to the back of the handle? Some buckles will need oval holes, it will look better and keep the holes smaller. You would need a much larger round hole for the same job. That might make a strap weaker and look ugly. However, in most cases you will get away with a round hole. There are cheap roller punch pliers with oval punches available. You can also buy cheap oval punches, but they will not last very long and some of them makes ugly holes too. I've tried a few types of today's oval punches. You can be lucky to find some old ones in good condition otherwise there are very few new good ones. The new Blanchard's aren't good, small sizes are to soft steel. There are inexpensive Dixon copies, they look like they have just pressed a round punch to a oval shape...bad outcome. I've settled with the Weaver ones. They are a little on the fat side and the flat indicators on the handle isn't oriented correct to ovals long side. I expect that is a mistake to one or two of mine because the rest of the set are correct. Anyway, good punches are a expensive investment. You can use something cheap while you collect the good one over time. Tor

Some buckles will need oval holes, it will look better and keep the holes smaller. You would need a much larger round hole for the same job. That might make a strap weaker and look ugly. However, in most cases you will get away with a round hole. There are cheap roller punch pliers with oval punches available. You can also buy cheap oval punches, but they will not last very long and some of them makes ugly holes too. I've tried a few types of today's oval punches. You can be lucky to find some old ones in good condition otherwise there are very few new good ones. The new Blanchard's aren't good, small sizes are to soft steel. There are inexpensive Dixon copies, they look like they have just pressed a round punch to a oval shape...bad outcome. I've settled with the Weaver ones. They are a little on the fat side and the flat indicators on the handle isn't oriented correct to ovals long side. I expect that is a mistake to one or two of mine because the rest of the set are correct. Anyway, good punches are a expensive investment. You can use something cheap while you collect the good one over time. Tor

The paint roller machine is CNC machines out of one piece aluminum, very durable and easy to clean. What it's missing is a lid of course. But I've use a plastic box for that purpose. I'm thinking about making something with guides on in conjunction to a lid. It good for belts reins and larger volume. It works well with Fenice, Giardini and other Italian style paint. Haven't tried it with thinner liquid ink based color yet. The Giardini have very nice results color and finish wise. But I find it to be a little to much work applying base color and several layers paint in adjunction to top coat. But of course it looks nice. Tor

Of course the labor cost is somewhat higher here in Europe where child labor is not legal It's not only labor cost, it's the components they use in them. The secret to this tool is how accurate it keeps the temperature. How fast it's heating, there shouldn't be any down time before it's hot enough. A thermostat would not work, a accurate PID controller is needed. Even professional class soldering stations cost money because of the components it's in them. Perhaps a cheap Chinese PID control will do the same job as a expensive one. Only way to see that is to compare them doing a test job. I've just bought such cheap Chinese PID controller for upgrading an old hot foil machine. I hope it will do the job. Tor

You would need a harder shore cutting board and sharp dies.

Other aplicators I use for edge paint. The Giardini roller box, of course it has no lid so the paint dries out faster. That's selling more paint But I've made something for it. A small enamel paint brush shaft, with a leather wrapped for comfort. That actually a very useful tool if you don't need to apply to much paint. And of course a polished steel rod like a clickers awl etc. The thicker the more paint it applies. The empty marker is filled with Fibings edge paint and it stay liquid for a very long time. It's not ideal for Italian style thick "self rounding" edge paint. A small felt pad in a clothespin will do the same job, its a trow away of course. Tor

Well they are called Cornette in France, French pattern knife or quarter moon knife. Many French, German and British knife makers did them. Often these where a knife makers only leather tool and that explains why there is so many different around still.

Yes that that's nice with Fibings and ink based edge paint. But with Giardini you must apply a thick floating layer so it would not work out.

Arturo, Yes the tool Giardini don't have any bearings or it's faulty designed. It will not turn freely unless it's held horizontal in certain positions. Solution was buying two others from eBay with bearings inside. They both works very well in all position. The gold color one has bearings in the top and in the bottom a trust bearing, I will recommend it. The other one with the bamboo shaft has a bearing in the top and a stop ring on the shaft. Therefore, the shaft won't jam. It's has a very good cylindrical aplicator roller that works very well. Also the bamboo handle makes it pleasant to use. I recommend it. Look at this on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/373136243866 eBay swarming with these tools, you got to carefully read the descriptions before you buy. Tor

Yea that's what those Chinese guys make money on these days since the Regard tool became popular some years ago. Buts please don't call it a Creasing machine because that's something completely different. It's an electric creasing iron and it's a over 100 year old system. The electrical supply would need enough watt output and a PID to constantly maintain the temperature. And of course a suitable handle you don't burn yourself on.

It's a terrible nightmare that happen to him! My thoughts and best wishes to Terry!!

It should be an advantage to have used such tool before giving advice of how to sharpen it This is a inexpensive Tandy model tool that have several issues. It doesn't matter if it "slants upwards from right to left" It has a wrong edge, double instead of a single one on the bottom side. The toes are to thick and it's not polished. I use better tools but I once started out with a similar one. Here it's how it should look like, straight on top and the edge on the bottom side. Looking like yours (with a double edge) it will tend to steer downwards instead of Skiving. It doesn't matter if it's straight cut off between the toes or in an angle. Reduce the thickness of the toes and polish off the blueing black color. That will give it less drag and make it acceptable to use. Use a small stone/file that fit between the toes to make it flat on the top. Take a sand paper around the stone with finer grits until polishing grit's. Polish the hole tool on a buffing wheel or a strop. A strip of leather that fit between, with polishing paste placed on the desk etc. will polish the top side. Make it look like in my pics and it will skive very well. Tor

Hi Sallis, I do have the same manual as Constabulary has..German. Don't think there are any English ones out there. The German one have good illustrations. Your machine is a bottom feed with roller foot and was made for leatherwork when new. The needle system is Schmetz 328 LR but you can of course use other 328 needle points..LL, D and spear point (round) Sizes listed in manual goes from Nm 100 to 300, but it's only a couple subclasses that take the biggest needle. Practically it will sew with needles from Nm 160 to 250, perhaps 280. Needle to thread chart: Nm160 is for thread tkt 20 Nm 180 for tkt 15 thread Nm 200 for tkt 10 thread Nm 230 for tkt 8 thread Nm 250 and 280 for tkt 6 thread If you can find that thick thread or linen 18/6 thread. Linen threads: Needle Nm180 for 25/3 and 4 cord or 18/3 cord Nm 200 for 18/3 and 4 cord Nm 230 for 18/4 and 5 cord Nm 250 for 18/6 cord Nm 280 for 18/6 cord Nm 300 for 18/7 cord That's the linen thread table I doubt it will take the thickest threads above tkt 8 and 18/5. The adjusted needle, normal needle your machine will perform best with is a 200 tkt 8 thread (the needle your machine is adjusted to work with). The 160 and smaller will be to long and thin, easily bend away from the hook and cause skipped stitches. The thicker 250 to 300 will easily get birds nests in your bobbin. The thicker needle could also get to close to the hook tip, hitting it and damage your shuttle. Always try turning by hand first when using big needles, check that it will not hit the shuttle tip. Normal problems with these are worn groves in bobbin and tension spring, causing insufficient bobbin tension. Worn broken bobbin tension adjustment screws etc. The original cl. 5 small open shuttle is now obsolete so you can't find part for it. You have to buy a new small closed shuttle, DA part # 0005 002904. Price is between 400 to 100 Euro, original to aftermarket. The new closed shuttle will fit and is not to be confused with the similar Singer 45 K shuttle, that are often sold to fit the class 5 by after marked dealers. It's a difference between them on the hook tip. If your shuttle is good and tension thinner threads not much else can be broken on these machines. Pic #3 shows the original (now obsolete) small open Adler shuttle that came with the machine. Original part #05 195 (not sold anymore, replaced with DA # 0005 002904) Of course the hole machine is now obsolete and parts not available anymore. But some parts from the newer generation 105-64 that still are supported will fit your machine. You motor looks to be a Kobold slow speed clutch motor. I will be easy to sew slow on thinner materials but when you try on thick stuff it may struggle to keep at a slow pace. You could install a speed reducer gear pulleys or change it to a servo motor, or both. These are quality machines but will of course mark up the backside of your leather by the feed dog. Try release the foot pressure and help the feed by hand (in the right moment only) Use water , a bone folder or a saddlers hammer to smooth out markings at once they are made. Good luck with it! Tor

What is wrong with your shuttle, the broken screw? that screw can be easily replaced and you can buy a new spring too.