Trox

Hi Ken, Yes Nm 10/3 is about TEX 270, then you have 9 that is TEX 350 and 8 who is TEX 400. To make things clear about the DA machines. The M type 867 machine will take up to Nm 10/3 (from 80/3 to 10/3 max). When it comes to the H type, the numbers are H 967 flat bed ( 968 post and 969 cylinder bed). This is the new monster machine with barrels shuttle,it is twice the size of an regular 205-370 machine. This will take up to Nm 5/3 who is TEX 600. Seems like you mixed up the two classes here, on a picture they look very similar. In reality they are very different machines. I hope that helped you Tor

Thank you Keith, I look forward to see the other attachments too Thanks Tor

Nm stands for metric count; number of hanks on 1000 meters/kg. They use the ticket numbering system of a specific thread merely as an thread manufacturers reference guide. Its mostly used on synthetic and core spun thread. In example 5/3= "5" is the ticket number/ and "3" stands for three strands. It is a fixed weight system meaning; the lower a ticket number the thicker the thread is (higher number for thinner thread). TEX system is the other way around. Nm 5/3 is a very thick thread, is approximately TEX 600. Durkopp Adler normally describe the type of thread before or after the Nm ticket number, and its normally polyester and braided polyester. The thread measurement systems is a jungle and every part of the world has their own. Therefor, its often very difficult to convert between different systems and manufacturers. I am only familiar with the European synthetic Nm numbering that I am using myself. I mostly use Amman serafil polyester and Coats Gral lubricated polyester. They have the same Nm ticket numbering as the ones DA uses in their technical documents. (if not exactly the same threads) What DA machine takes the threads size Nm 5/3, the new 969 H series? This is a very difficult system and perhaps the reason that artisans do not change thread manufacturer to often. Tor

I think you will be able to sew the top and bottom on that case with ease. You would normally need a machine with feed of the arm for the long cylinder case seam. I wonder how the attachment will work on this seam, its not a 90 degree angle anymore. It looks like its been done with the same attachment, thought. Tor

Now we talking Keith, I take thats a Union Lock attachment. I am grateful for any pictures and ideas. I guess I have to make this attachment myself, because the Ferdco one is not available anymore. (I have checked with the Hoffman brothers). I am thinking about making a "hybrid" between yours, the Campbell R and the 441 attachment. I already have a drop down roller guide that I can make a new angled guide for. Then I can make a new angled needle plate out of aluminum (your kind of style) and use a bent right toe paddle foot with an modified inner foot. I do not know if a adjustable lower material support like on the 441 attachment is necessary, I think I will find out with some trial and error anyway. A Ferdco (441) pat. lower needle guide will come in handy when there is no space for a feed dog. There will be allot of outward pressure on the needle; causing the 441 to skip stitches. I cannot afford buying/shipping a CR highigh liftom the USA, so I will give this a shot and see how it works out. Thanks Tor

Oltoot, I'sorry but are we talking about the same thing here? We are talking about sewing two pieces of leather together in a 45 degree angle. I'm not sure how this will be possible with your attachment,without the use of force that is. I'm sure a needle and awl machine will be the best solution for this seam. However,those are not available in my part of the world. Tor

That worked very well, nice deep impressions. Only thing you need is two rollers for the foil. Job nicely done! Tor

Volkswagen Passat 1,6 diesel starts at 43K and release 105 metric gram CO /km (I do not know how to convert to your system) Volvo S60 D kinetic CO 103 g/km starts at 42K, Volvo V 70 D2 starts at 49K CO 109 g/km. These are the cheapest of its kind, I do not think anybody buys those model variations because they have to small motors/weight relation. Diesel car are very popular here, but they pollute more than gasoline. The government wants to take more tax of them, if thats possible at all. You can buy a electric car here without paying any tax at all. A Tesla with 300 to 400 hp motor starts at 50K, the same as a WV Golf GTD 184 hp diesel. And with a Electric car you can park free, drive in the buss line and road tax. They have a waiting list on most popular El car here now. Norway is the second largest country for Tesla cars after the USA, and we have only 5 mill people living here. More than 50 % of the new car price is government tax, 60 % of the fuel price is tax. Then it is tax on every thing else car related too. If I had the money for a new car now, I would have looked at an Electric one. And a Tesla if they sold estate wagons. The tax free period will not last for very long. Tor

Hi, that looks better, I see these A...wifes saves money where they do not think we will see it. Its a Cowboy machine direct from China? Although my 441 stand is different from yours (French sold), my foot pedals sits to close together too. And I have a Efka, it takes a full rotation every time I touch the pedal. I turn the machine off before I remove the work piece, just to be sure not have a extra stitch in it. I have a project in rebuilding the foot lift to a air lift, it stalled because I got the wrong air cylinder (wrong stroke length). I like the knee lift system much better than the foot operated, then you do not have to move your foot (take your eyes away from what you working on) I think I will install a knee air switch (progressive one). An other thing I do not like with the 441 machines, is where the hand lever for the foot lift is placed. That space are used for much other items like drop down guide, sewing material etc. Should be on top front like on DA machines. I turned mine 180 deg. to fit a drop down guide, but the mechanism has no return spring and sometimes falls down when I use the foot pedal. A bad design! What will you do to the flat table attachment? I wondered about buying one.... perhaps not? Tor

Hi, I do not know these Jack servomotors. The Error guide is as expected for these Chinese motors; translated with Google I guess. With an Efka, you can call them on Skype video call and show them the problem. They will sit down with you until your machine sews, as it should. That’s free, included in the package. If it takes one day or four, that do not matter. That is necessary when time is money. Like I said before, if you share a machine revolution (360 deg.) in two parts, each 180 deg. Needle-up position inside one part and needle-down pos inside the other. If one is adjusted to close to the other window, it sometimes will return to the wrong position. Rotate backward or not at all. These two positions must be correct timed otherwise this might happen; the motor gets no clear start/stop signal. Same thing will happen if you take off the head and try to start the motor. Perhaps something happens in your gear reduction; perhaps it is too many gears. Perhaps it will work better if you position the pos-head on another gear wheel. I do not know, it’s hard to tell without seeing it my self. However, if this motor works with normal speed reducers. I think this has a logical solution, map it down on a piece of paper and count rotations in the drive. Perhaps you will see what’s wrong with the setup (or has it worked with this setup before?) Otherwise, check that the head are well connected to the hand-wheel; stays still when the Hand-wheel rotates (does not follow the shaft around). If there is an IR beam inside, check for dirt on the lens and false light etc. Then take an all reset if necessary and time the two positions all over again. Remember that needle-down position will be a bit after BTC, when the needle it’s on its way upward again (when the hook has grabbed the thread loop). The thread take-up lever should have traveled half its way up. In Needle-up position, the thread take-up should be all the way up. I do not know if this applies to the Jack servo, however the motor has to get its start/stop signal from the head (if constructed like mention in the other post’s) If this do not help you contact the dealer and ask for help or make a complain. Good luck Tor

I think this is a type of gear servo motor, it has no needle position. Dealers in the USA also sold something similar, they have a inbuilt gear speed reduction (I think the gears are made of plastic, thought). You will achieve this with a normal servo and reducer too, to echo Constabulary (why do everybody have these long difficult names, do you have anything shorter Constabulary? like Con or CY) Tor

Hi, its a bit late for changing it for another now I am not sure which one you refer to? he has three stands on the top and some other kind of stands in the bottom of his page. My Japanese is not existent, if there are some other pages I would not know how to navigate to them. The 105 is not out of the door yet, but I am selling it ttogetherwith a Pfaff 491 post/ Efka variostop machine. The 105 has been served, all bad screws/ parts changed. New DA hook that I paid 350 Euro for, a new 4 pole 650 Watt clutch motor and new speed reducer. The Pfaff has some new part too and been converted for single phase current (with a frequency converter). I will tell you the price after is picked up, I do not make any profit on this deal. However, I can not use all my machines and when somebody want to start with leather work here; I feel obligated to help out. Tor

Volvo 245 and Volvo V70 of course, because of the quality and where I am living (Norway). I would love an American muscle car, but they are to thirsty for our gas prices; 1,86 $ for one liter. Tor

Thanks Uwe, I assure you that the plastic is the only resemblance between Dexter and myself, our hobbies are quite different This machine is going to be "bumped" (moved) out of my house ready to sew and I know it will stand for it. Its sold. I was inspired by this man on youtube https://www.youtube.com/user/DANGUMAN I been watching his videos for quite some time, without understanding a word of what he says. Perhaps he is Korean and not Japanese, that does not matter. He has a lot of nice ideas and machines. The pictures are telling the story anyway.

Thanks for a good topic, very good reviews of the motor. I just want to clear up what I said about Needle position and speed reducers. It only applies to the new Efka motors DC 1200, DC 1250, DC 1500 and DC 1550 with control boxes. These motor systems do not adjust the needle position on the synchronizer head any more (like on older Efka motors). Adjustments are all done in the control box and the head are just there to calculate belt slippage. Without a belt drive as on VanRhodes cl. 20 (has to be) gear drive, you would not need this head at all using an new Efka. Anyway, Efka assure their motors would be strong enough for any known lock-stitch machine without use of a speed reducer (I never had any problems with mine, using just half of the rated torque settings on a 441). That said, there are always special solutions than need a speed reducer. Then you can mount the head on the speed reducer itself to avoid these errors. HohSing, uses the"old" type adjustments in the sync. head on most of their motors, if not all. Several/most of their motors are AC position motors, not DC as Efka uses. So if the motor has the same style head as on Amuckart`s HohSing, it should be working well with a speed reducer. It could be many other reasons for getting "NP" errors on the Jacksew motor. The actual adjustment timing could be wrong, needle down and needle up are set to close together or to far (from 0 to 360 degree). The head could be mounted wrongly on the shaft, jumps on the shaft or turns a little with the shaft. Or it could be a control box error. There are many Chinese "NP" motors on the marked having these errors, its very common. Then of course the lack of a good manual and support will make problems too (you get what you pay for). Overall, this Jacksew motor looks to be a good alternative. The next step up would be an HohSing G series "NP" motor; the G60 is not that expensive (even here in Norway) and it has 600 watt, no errors and good low speed control. Made in Japan for around 300 $ (Check with Gregg @ Keystone) http://www.hohsing.com/index.php/en/ac-servo-motor-en/142-g-series-en This motor will not allow any extra attachments such ar foot lift, thread trimmers etc.. If you are looking for such options you must by a more expensive motor system. Thanks Tor

Japanese cut out table. This machine came with regular Singer flatbed table, and that will not work for a cylinder bed. These old cast iron stands are very sturdy, I just cut off one of the table tabs and made a new table top. The top are made of two 3/4" (= 1 1/2") pine "hobby plates" glued together. I have seen the Japanese used this style of tables on their machine. Three coats of white oil paint on the top and Hamerite on the stand. Functional and simple solution of what I had on hand. If the table had "Adler" on it, I would have used a little gold paint on the letters too Anyway, the table became very stable and the white color saves lighting. Just to make it simple. Tor

Nice job! how long is that heating element and where did you get that tape. Thank you Tor

Thanks Walter and Macca, thats was what I thought it did, just had to ask. I must confess that I use a strap around my French saddler's clamp, I get a restless leg of pressing the clamp together. Especially when I am using it for a long period of time. Of course I do most of my sewing on a sewing machine. However, If I had been hand-sewing all the time like you Walter; I am sure I had become more used to it. Tor

Thanks, perhaps you will consider selling your, if you still have it. Thanks Tor

Hi Rmr, where did you buy that attachment, do you know if its still available. Thanks Tor

Hi, Pfaff made class 28 and 27 a long time ago, who where machine with a shuttle hook for heavy threads. However, these where bottom feed machines and do not compare with todays DA 205-370 triple feed heavy machine. Pfaff made the triple feed 345 vertical hook cylinder-bed who is very similar to the DA 269, (but without a hook safety clutch) these are both medium machines. Today Pfaff only make one cylinder bed and that`s the "new" class 335. Horizontal rotating hook for medium work and threads. All above are good machine, but must be set up to sew leather. That might require new feet`s, feed dog, a new servo motor; to mention some of it.. Steve from Cobra Leather machine offers a complete range of leather working machines, from light to heavy. They are all set up for leather and ready to work. He ships everywhere and are a great person to deal with, check it out. Tor

Thank you Walter and thanks for the translation Sona and Thor. Walter, just to make sure. That metal hardware locks the jaws of it? I always thought it did. But when I see your neighbors son resting his foot on the pedal, I'm not sure anymore.

Hi, I been thinking about copying this 441 attachment for box stitching. It was either Artisan or Ferdco who came with it in the first place. The principals is of course the same, you need to have a wooden lest inside to make this work too. Tor

Yes there is quite a few of these Adler 120 that changed name to Singer. Must be because it had a larger foot lift that the Singer 27 B2B. The high lift Adler cl. 120 had a 40 mm foot lift. This subclass has a gear on the hand-wheel. It is very cheap priced, this are very expensive machines. Tor