Wizcrafts

@pgb123 There is your answer and source for the needles.

If you are able to find thew recommended needle system, in the sizes you prefer to use, buy a few packs. then adjust the needle bar height to match those needles. Needle bars can move from impact, or from owners wanting to use a different needle system that is longer or shorter, or that they have on hand. If the needle bar height securing screw is worn it can be replaced.

I use double sided Leather Tape from Wawak.com. It comes in 1/4", 1/2", 3/4" and 1" width by 60 yards. I apply it across the length of rectangular patches, at the top and bottom. For round patches I use a criss-cross with the tape, peeling the backing off the first piece before laying the second one down. The tape isn't affected by the elements any more than the iron-on glue patches. I use a post machine to sew patches onto hats.

This dealer, whom I had no knowledge of before today, is not a reseller of "Techsew." They carry similar sounding brands called "New Tech" and "SewTech." All warranty and servicing will be through them, not the manufacturers (that's how dealership arrangements usually work, with the exception of drop ship agents who are not usually responsible at all). You should call and ask about in-store or on-location servicing and warranties before buying from them. They do mention that all machines are shipped un-assembled unless you pay more for assembly.

I've used (and still use) a variety of sewing machine motors. Some of my machines have internal clutch motors, some have continuous run motors with external clutches, some are push-button servos, some are pot controlled servos and some multi-position rotary switch controlled servos. Of the servo motor types, I preferred and used to buy Sew Pro 500GR motors. They had knobs on the left side to limit the top speed and worked awesomely once you got past the low torque setting. The advantage of these motors was that they began turning at zero and smoothly increased to top speed. But, they went out to lunch one day and never returned. When Sew Pro went out of business I began buying push-button servos. They do have a lot of startup torque. The issue I have with most of them is that they usually start rotating, with a sudden jerk, at 100, 200, or 300 rpm. After getting past the starting point the speed transition is sometimes very abrupt. So, I bought variable density Cobra light filters and placed them between the bulb and sensor. The results were hit and miss with the filters and they still didn't start at zero. When Toledo Industrial began importing Family Sew 550 motors I bought one and found that it had good low speed torque and started rotating at zero, with a smooth transition to maximum. I have 3 of them now. They are close to the Sew Pro in performance and are still in production. The important detail is the pulley diameter. It must be a 2" (50mm) pulley if you are going to want to sew in the neighborhood of 1 or 2 stitches per second flat out. The standard 3" pulley runs it too fast for precision sewing and makes it more like a clutch motor that has to be feathered to sew slowly. Even with a 2" pulley, I found the need to buy a speed reducer for my walking foot post bed machine. This gives incredible slow speed torque for precision sewing. NB: I can feather my clutch motors down to one stitch at a time, or hold the pedal steady at about 1.5 to 2 stitches per second. So technically speaking, I don't actually need a servo motor at all. But, they are quiet when not in motion and don't throw off heat in the summer like my clutch motors do. They draw less current at their typical slow speeds so the electric bills aren't as high as when I had nothing but clutch motors on for hours at a time.

Yes, it is fully capable of sewing slings, straps, belts, pouches, garments, vests, etc. It won't be any good for holsters though. Seeing as how this model lacks a safety clutch, always hold back the starting threads to prevent thread jams in the hook.

What we refer to as patchers are shoe REPAIR machines. They are also great for sewing embroidered patches over pockets and sleeves, and for fixing torn or loose strap tabs on the sides of purses.

I have a Cowboy CB4500 and previously sewed on a Cobra Class 4. These 441 clones (Juki TSC-441) are built super heavy duty to withstand the pounding and heavy load of thick thread and big needles in thick stacks of hard leather. to do this they use a very long needle. So, it should be no surprise that they aren't as effective with thin thread and thin needles. However, if you are willing to take the time to dumb down the machine, you can sew thin leather, with thin thread and thin needles. You can read how to do this on my leatherworks blog. If dumbing down a big harness stitcher doesn't appeal to you, check out the Cowboy CB341 or Cobra 26, or a Techsew 3650HD. All three brands are advertisers here and support our forum.

You can definitely sew uppers with a double needle Puritan chain stitch post machine. Some of their posts are the about as wide as a nickle or quarter at the throat plate. There is no bobbin, just a moving barbed needle. The chain should be okay on the inside of the uppers. That's how Redwing sews their boots.

First of all, your Juki model is LU-563. The entire LU series continues to this day and has a double capacity bobbin that is larger than the M style bobbins. You want an anti-backlash spring that will fit inside the basket. Mine is star shaped and came from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. You can call them toll free at 866-362-7397. Or, contact any industrial sewing machine dealer who carries Juki parts. The spring is probably only a buck, or so, plus postage in an envelope.

Something is binding in the lift components. First, add more presser foot pressure on top of the presser bar. If that doesn't fix it, examing all of the lift parts to see what is hanging the foot up. Loosen screws, tap a part, try it out, tighten screws.

It depends on how fast you are sewing when you come to a stop. If your maximum speed is only a couple of stitches per second, the spring won't be needed. But, if you sew fast on long runs, inertia comes into play and the bobbin may continue spinning. Installing it against the direction of the hook helps counteract this.

#69 (T70) thread requires a #16 or #18 needle and nothing more. If you use a needle meant for #207 thread the hole it pokes will be 4 or 5 times to big to give and resistance to the thread. This may be why the loop is dissolving before the hook can pick it off. You can try to offset the problem by creating more slack in the top thread on the downstroke. The check spring travel, center position and spring tension affect the slack. Normally, you stop the downward travel as the needle penetrates the material. Set the bottom stopped bracket so the spring stops as the needle enters the top layer. Play with the positioner slot until you get the most extra thread on the downstroke. This may allow the loop to form. Do install a #18 needle,

The 111 cutout is too short. You'll need to route out the left side to 20 3/8+ inches (trim to fit) and move the rubber shock mounts. Also, the pivots probable won't match the ones in the table. You may need to buy matching mounts to go from the table to the machine, based on the holes in the machine's bed.

Okay. My Singer 168 bed size is 7" x 20 3/8". My shorty table is 33 1/2" x 20". It has a floor pedal to lift the feet, connecting to the lift lever via a chain.

It was assembled by Bob Kovar, at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. He put a metal oil pan under the machine. My table is a shorty, only about 36 inches long.

I had a Juki LU-563 many years ago. The bobbin tension spring has two tiny screws on it. The rightmost screw fastens the spring to the bobbin basket. The screw near the middle of the spring adjusts the tension it exerts on the bobbin thread. Back off that spring a turn with a tiny flat blade screwdriver. Load the bobbin so it feeds counterclockwise. Pull the thread from the bobbin into the angled slot and then pull it around to towards the needle while pressing down on top of the bobbin. This should cause the thread to pop under the end of the tension spring. Adjust the tension as needed with that little center screw. I suggest removing the bobbin and cleaning out any thread fragments and dust. Also, make sure there is a star shaped anti-backlash spring inside the bobbin basket. It keeps the bobbin from free-spinning when you sew fast (time is money). If the backlash spring is missing, buy a new one. They're cheap.

Keep in mind that 29 series machines are meant for shoe and boot repairs, not production. That's why some shipped with a T-bar darning attachment on top.

That is cost ineffective. See if you can exchange that patcher (and pay the difference) for a newer one that has a bigger bobbin. We've discussed the 29k58 before.

Do you already have a shoe patcher? Do you realize how tiny their small bobbins are? If not, if you want to sew sidewalls on, get a large bobbin patcher. They are capable of running #138 thread and won't run out sewing one pair of sneakers like the small bobbin model would. Singer patchers are actually series 29 machines. They originally were made with only a very small bobbin and a fixed gearbox. These itsy bitsy bobbins are best threaded with no more than T70 bonded, or 3 ply cotton thread. Later on in the 20th Century, Singer extended the arm out to 17.5 inches and made a detachable gearbox that came in small and large shuttle models. The larger bobbin holds enough #138 bonded thread to sew around 5 or 6 belts, guitar straps or rifle slings (I know from doing this for years). The last and best big bobbin Singer patchers were the 29K72 (1960s) and 29K172 or 29U172 (1970s, made in JP).

If you are going to sew sidewalls, #92/15 pound test thread is marginal, but acceptable if sewn in a double row, with 1/8 inch spacing at no closer than 5 stitches per inch.. You really should use 22 pound test #138 bonded nylon/polyester thread for higher stress areas in the toe box.

The Cobra servo motor is brushless and has up/down pushbuttons to set the startup speed, top speed and direction or rotation. Being brushless means there are no graphite brushes to wear out. Pushbutton motors can be super confusing to configure, especially n the fly (almost can't be done). The ones I used started at about 100 rpm. The new motors may start slower. The Family Sew motor sold by Toledo Industrial sewing Machines has graphite brushes and a single knob on the front to set the top speed. Direction can be changed on the back. They retrofit them with 50mm (2") pulleys for slower low speeds at more torque than the standard 70mm pulley. Most of these motors start at zero rpm and smoothly increase.

That is beautiful work and excellent stitching! I love that bike seat!

I guess you'll need to ask the dealer how high the table can be raised and still have the floor pedals function. Do you need higher than standard office or computer desks? The pedestal table isn't really the best for sitting at on a regular chair. I use a bar stool with my CB4500. To the best of my knowledge, the only authorized US Cowboy sewing machine dealers are in Ohio and Texas. If there are others in the west coast I don't know about them right now. Cobra is based in California and Springfield Leather is an affiliate dealer in Missouri.

I'll ask a couple of dealer friends to see if they know if your Singer 236 post bed has the same bed size as my Singer 168 post bed. Then I can measure mine.