Wizcrafts

No matter what brand name machine you buy, if you get it sent directly to you from China, you become the "dealer" for servicing purposes. You will be responsible for all repairs, adjustments and parts costs. It is highly unlikely that you will receive any after sale assistance. If there is any assistance, unless you speak Chinese, it will have to be handled by email, using a translator. Worse of all, if the machine is totally defective from the start and needs to go back to the factory, you will be responsible for packing and shipping it at your own expense. Some Chinese sewing machine companies may offer phone, text, or online chat service agreements for an additional up front fee, making the machine more expensive. The problem with that is, do they speak/read/write your language, or do you speak/read/write theirs?

NO! The LU-563 and its successors are limited to #138 thread. This is okay for many jobs but not gun holsters. The thread is simply not strong enough to withstand the forces that can be exerted by holstering a handgun. I use #277 thread for all holsters. I owned a 563 and found it inadequate for holsters and had forward/reverse length mismatches. It also suffered from a floating stitch lever that changed stitch length with the speed I sewed at.

Rustic; I once was friends with a harness shop owner who made top end harnesses for race horses. Sometimes his customers, or other makers' customers would ship items to him for repairs or resewing. Some of his machines were equipped with stitch counters. He would note the count at the beginning and end of a repair job and charge by the stitch, not the length. Perhaps you can calculate the value of one stitch of each thickness of thread you have in stock and mark it up to what both you and your customers can live with. As for counting the stitches, you can either count out loud as you sew, or count the holes your needle made, minus one at the beginning and end (there are two holes per stitch). Plus, the thickness sewn would enter into it.

The IP address resolves to 191.97.122.108 Paraguay

Huh? Please 'splain that.

The Singer 111w155 is good for up to #138 bonded nylon thread. It can sew 3/8 inch of compressed material. It uses System 135x16 leather point and 135x17 round point needles. The maximum stitch length is longer than 4 to the inch. This is a great upholstery grade machine that is useful for sewing intermediate density leather projects, parachutes, banners, tarps, denim jeans, webbing and tow straps. The machine only sews forward. You need to spin the work around to lock in the stitches.

New swear words will also be invented and tools flung if one inadvertently unscrews the tiny bobbin tension screw all the way and it falls out!

Use a torch with a very small flame on the frozen screw. The heat will loosen up the threads so it can be unscrewed.

The Singer 111w100, 111w102, 111w114 and 111w151 are all bottom and needle feed only; not walking foot. You can see photos of the various 111 machines on Mark Rofini's website. Also, several members have ended up with non-walking foot 111w machines and started topics about them. Here is just one topic about a 111w102 needle feed machine.

If I were you I would have a serious talk with the dealer and tell him/her that you need to sew with #138 bonded nylon thread into up to 3/8 inch (~10mm) of leather/canvas/webbing. For this the machine would have to accept either a #22 or #23 needle. If the dealer can set up the machine with #138 thread, top and bottom, and sew into a stack of leather or webbing without skipping stitches and get 5 stitches per inch at 3/8 inch thickness, then do the deal. If you are looking at an online only deal, ask for a sample to be sewn as described above.

If you want to discuss the LU-1508 series, please start a new topic of your own. People who own, or sell, or repair them will offer the best answers. To answer your specific question about the needle system, only the 1508NH is setup to use system 190 needles. It can have the needlebar lowered to use system 135x16 if the extra height isn't required. This may require retiming the hook to match the motion of the needle. You can read the descriptions and specs on the Juki.co.jp website.

You are most welcome! Glad to have been of help.

I hate to close an active topic, but this one has gotten out of hand! Rustic has asked for advice, received it and argued with those giving it. This is non-productive. He is not getting the results he wants and people are belittling him for being strong headed and ignoring their advice. There is nothing good to come out of this topic if it continues to deteriorate. So, reluctantly, I am closing it now. In the future, I would suggest that members offer advice once, then leave it be if ignored or argued with. Rustic, this is not a forum for arguments.

Negative. You should look for a machine capable of at least #92 bonded thread with a #19 needle. That's the minimum I use when sewing purses and their tabs. I found specs showing that this machine can handle Metric 30/3 thread, which is equivalent to our #92 (T90) bonded nylon. I did not see the needle size limitation mentioned by the OP. Could it be that the machine in question has been modified for smaller needles and thread? If it was, those parts need to be replaced.

That is a tailoring machine for cloth only.

According to an article published on the Sophos Naked Security Blog, thousands of Internet connected 3D printers are at risk of remote exploitation unless they are properly secured. Since this section of the LW.N deals with these printers, I recommend that any of you with remote access enabled should read this article. It may or may not pertain to your existing printer, or software, but knowing about the threat will be beneficial. I strongly believe that all IoT devices need better security out of the box.

According to the specs, the DNU-1541 can handle up to #138 thread, top and bottom.

I would love to be able to heel down to lift the feet on several of my machines.

Avoid the bottom feed only machines, like the 31-15, and set your sights on an upholstery class walking foot machine. If there is an upholstery shop within driving distance, go there and see what they use. You'll want a compound feed (aka, triple feed) walking foot machine with a synchronized moving feed dog, needle and inside foot. The outside foot should only move up and down.

Are you a tailor, or alterationist? If so, that is a good machine for straight stitching on cloth with standard cotton or polycore thread. It can also sew thin leather or vinyl seams, like thin seat covers, wallet interiors, or hems on leather pants and skirts. You may need to convert it into a roller foot machine to get even stitches in leather.

The Singer 66 machines should not be used on important leather projects. Patches are okay as long as you sew inside the serged edges.

I split this into a new topic so that the O.P. can get the best answers. The original topic was about Efka motors.

Buy any upholstery grade triple feed walking foot machine. They can all handle up to #138 bonded nylon/polyester thread, with a #22 or #23 needle, and sew up to or almost up to 3/8 inch. Then, with a smaller needle and thinner thread, they can sew two seams of standard weight seat vinyl.

Maybe this Pfaff 138 manual will help.

First, find out if your Pfaff machine is using "System 134-35" (longer), or"System 134" needles (shorter), or something else. If you're unsure, remove the needle that came with it and measure it. Let us know, or post a picture of the needle next to an accurate ruler, or inside opened calipers. Then contact any industrial sewing machines dealer and order packs of 10 in each size you may need. I buy most of my needles from dealers who advertise via banners on top of our pages. If they don't have what I want, I then go to eBay.