Wizcrafts

I own a 211g156. I installed a servo motor with a small pulley. At the lowest usable motor speed, it runs at about 2 stitches per second. Because the machine pulley is so small it lacks the punching power of my Singer 111. So, I turn up the motor speed knob to punch through the work. This leads to the machine taking off when my foot isn't completely steady on the pedal. I only bought the machine for its reverse lever and due to the shutdowns of 2020, where our main machines were locked inside the commercial building hosting our business. If I had it do do over, I would not buy another 211 machine. It is designed for high speed upholstery, or banners, or tarps, not veg-tan leather. It really needs a reducer to get slow speed with punching power. And, it only has a G size (1x) bobbin. I also find the harp space limiting when sewing leather jackets.

You didn't mention the needle size you are using. Perhaps moving down one number will stop the skipped starting stitches. If you are using a #14 needle, try a #12. Watch the material as you begin the tacking cycle to see if it is lifting under the foot/clamp. If it is lifting that explains why there are skipped stitches. As the material lifts up with the needle, the loop under the throat plate gets dissolved before the hook picks it off. You can try countering this by placing a solid object against the starting side of the material and holding it down. Maybe even a toothpick with the end blunted. It's also possible that there is a gap on the bottom of the foot on the starting edge. Or, try increasing the foot pressure so it holds down the material more firmly. If none of these things keep the material from lifting, place basting tape under the material to stiffen the area to be tacked. I guess another possibility could be that the foot slot is too wide to hold down the starting stitches. Last, try adding some slack to the top thread with the check spring. Edit: I just read a manual for the Juki LK-1850 and it mentions different throat plates, with varying needle holes, to match the needle you will be using. If your machine was originally setup for #69 or #92 thread, the hole will be quite large when you use a #14 or smaller needle. This reduces the bottom support.

Aside from have a new shaft machined, your only recourse for replacing a top shaft with threads for the stitch length is buying another similar model machine that has the threads intact.

That's an indication that the hook timing may be retarded. Try advancing the hook a little and see if it reduces the spring flutter.

Maybe your paddle spring has a burr, or is deformed, or there is a thread gouge behind it in the needle bar. The only way to know for sure is to remove the needle bar from the revolving bushing and head. The simplest method for just inspecting it is to remove the needle clamping bracket, the foot, and the stitch length regulator assembly. Unscrew the 4 bolts that secure the head to the body and pull the head down and to the left. The needle bar will just slide through it. I have been able to slide Emory cloth under the paddle spring and pull it back and forth to smooth out gouges on the spring, and/or the needle bar.

Have you considered leasing a brand new Cowboy stitcher? They make several models that are based on the Juki TSC-441, but at half the price. I have their CB4500, which has a useful 16.5 inch long arm.

Campbell-Randall sells Union Lockstitch machines, needles, awls and accessories. @CowboyBob might have the leather point needles you need that are meant for your machine. You would need to angle the tapered points to get the buckstitch appearance.

It might do if it is twisted so the chisel is at about 45 degrees. It would probably have to be a #26 needle.

I wonder if a Union Lockstitch chisel awl can be fitted into the needle bar of a 441 clone? Mine are at the shop. I'll compare the length and shank diameter on Tuesday and report back. The needle bar can be adjusted up and down as needed. It just needs to take the awl shaft and lock it in. Then the awl can be angled for punching buckstitch holes.

Ah, so! If you must use a closed eye machine, get one with a lube pot on top. Fill it with liquid silicon (from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines and other dealers). Run the top thread through the silicon to lubricate it. This may keep the wax on the thread from clogging the eye of the needle. Also, use a larger needle than is called for (see thread and needle chart). The larger eye will have a better chance of clearing the wax that strips off the thread. But, keep a dauber and a jar of Goof Off handy in case everything clogs up with wax.

Sewing thick leather with waxed thread calls for a needle and awl machine. You will find two of the best needle and awl machines here. I used to have a Union Lockstitch machine and ran Barbour's Irish Linen thread through it, using Lax Wax from Campbell-Randall, or Ceroxylon from Puritan Industries. Sellari's liquid stitching wax is also available for needle and awl machines and is often used in sole stitchers.

Perhaps Campbell-Randall Company, in Conroe, Texas can help you with the adjustments. They a the dealer for Campbell-Randall and Union Lockstitch machines and would probably know as much as anybody out there about sole stitchers. Address: 405 FM 3083 Rd, Conroe, TX 77301 Phone: 1-800-327-9420

https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/223-3d-printers-and-lasers/

When you move the leather to the right of the machine it has more friction as it tries to move over the throat plate and arm. There is also the push button on the throat plate that can get in the way. May I suggest that you remove the throat plate and get is buffed to a high polish? I did that on my Adler 30-7 and it helped a little.

That's good work! We have a section of the forum where people can share digital and laser printer design patterns and programs.

Yea! Another win for the good guys! Glad it worked for you.

I tried sewing soles on various machines I've had over the decades. The worst ones are flatbeds. The best were cylinder arm machines that have very little space on the left of the needle. I sewed one pair of soles on my Cowboy CB4500 using an inline foot set. I used #346 thread and a #26 needle. I cranked down the foot pressure to keep the leather from lifting with the huge, loaded needle. It worked. If you are planning to sew on soles more than once in a while, look for a used Landis 12 sole stitcher. The last model was a 12K. These machines had a curved needle (hook) and awl. They are specifically made to lay a perfect stitch of waxed thread along the edge. You sew with the sole up on the Landis'. It has a knife that cuts a channel on top to submerge the thread into the sole.

I have news for you about the slowing it down part: "Ultra High Speed, Single Needle, Drop Feed, Lockstitch Machine" "With: Automatic Lubrication, Reverse Feed, Japanese Components" Here's the product page. Despite the requirement to run this machine at very high speed, it can be slowed down with a servo motor. Before you start sewing, unthread it and run it flat out for a half minute. This will pump the oil to the extremities. This is assuming you got the table containing the oil pan and gasket. The machine is not meant to just be manually oiled. It is a garment manufacturing machine. It is not rated for sewing leather.

Yep. At one point in time, I had two Singer (96k40 and 31-20), one Juki 563 and a Pfaff 138 all fitting onto the same table. I had to move the knee lever around to use the different heads

Maybe tweak the check spring to get a larger loop formed as the needle begins its ascent. There will be 3 adjustments possible: strength, travel and starting position. Try minimizing the travel so the spring stops as soon as the needle penetrates the top of the material. Back off the tension on the spring a bit. Try adjusting for more or less slack in the thread. Sometimes, adding slack helps overcome floppy material dissolving the loop. Othertimes, reducing the slack may do the trick..

The belt type is called Type 3L. They are 3/8 inch wide on top. If you have a hardware store nearby, they usually stock them in numerous lengths. Measure as close as you can, then buy a couple v-belts around that general size. Return the belts that are too long or short.

The four motion feed dog is also call "square drive." If done correctly, the feed dog starts under the throat plate in the forward most position. It then lifts straight up above the plate level. The it moves the material in sync with the needle and inside foot. After reaching the back of its travel, it drops straight down. This makes the bottom assist a little more precise than the standard feeder, which has a slope as it engages and disengages. I don't know how much difference this would make in every day sewing.

The machine probably shipped with a couple of Metric wrenches for the most common bolts. Just bring a set that includes everything from 10 through 15mm. Also, bring a large flat blade screw driver with a fat handle. You can set the head upright in the back or front floorboard and tie it in place. Put some padding in the truck bed and lay the pedestal stand down with the post on the bottom and tie it down. Take the parts drawer out first and put it in the truck. There will be needles, bobbins, wrenches, extra feet, extra throat plates and probably a 4 ounce precision oiler. Bring a box for the small parts and all the thread you'll probably be getting. I've owned a CB4500 since 2012 and it has never seized or broken down after 11 years of regular use. I would ask to plug in the machine and test it to ensure that it turns over smoothly and actually sews. Bring several pieces of 8-10 ounce leather. If it is threaded with #277 thread, it needs at least 1/4 inch thickness to easily hide the lockstitch knots. Unless it's been modified, the thinnest it will sew is about 8 ounces, using #138 thread. It can be modded later to sew thinner with thinner thread and needles. The black and gold finish indicates that the machine came from a former dealer in Arlington, Texas.

Turn the speed dial up a notch. You'll still be able to feather the pedal for slow speed, although it will be a little touchy until you get the hang of it. A 1:2 speed reducer is also a 2:1 torque magnifier.

Rather than promoting one particular seller, here are some Google search results for "Pull The Dot snap fasteners." Some eBay sellers have them in as little as 10 sets. Just make sure you read the specs to get the right post length for the project at hand. Some have very short posts for canvas. You'll want longer posts for use on holsters and sheathes.