Wizcrafts

I totally misunderstood your explanation. It now is obvious from the photos that the multiple thread loops in the shuttle is caused by the top thread losing tension, not the bobbin spring letting go. Do whatever you must to get the bobbin thread to feed smoothly under the spring, without jumping out of its slot in the bobbin case. Adjust for a modicum of tension. Re-thread the top so that if the thread has springy sections, they will be counteracted by an additional reverse wrap around the top post. You can see which way the thread is twisting by totally removing it from the top and starting over. Additionally, you might try increasing the downward travel of the check spring. Its job is to keep the top thread taut as the needle descends. The travel is limited by the movable block under the spring, which is on the lower tensioner post.

What color is the thread? If dark brown or black, it may be double dyed and extra springy and is uncoiling itself in the machine. Is the thread staying under the bobbin tension spring, or slipping out? If it slips out, flip the direction of the bobbin so it feeds the opposite way. This sometimes happens to me and reversing the flow off the spool cures it.

I was about to post the same thing. I always tilt the head back to replace belts, to oil the underside bearings, etc. All industrial sewing machines on standard tables have pivots on the back.

That rod is more than straight enough. The problem I had was caused by a huge angle of about 30 degrees off center exerting a side pull at the bottom of the travel. The machine was on a pedestal table that positions the motor rather far away from the speed pedal. I have not experienced the slowdowns on machines mounted on standard industrial sewing machine tables.

The missing part is the bobbin winder tension assembly. I just bought one on eBay for $10.00.

I always re-position the inside foot to match the tip of the needle on the top of the leather, when changing thicknesses more than 7 - 8 ounces. Not only does the leather feed better, but it also improves the fwd/rev stitch length matching.

The FS-550s has a plastic activator lever facing forward when the motor is mounted under a standard sewing machine table. The lever moves down to release the brake and increase the speed. Just make sure that the rods or chain you use to connect it to the floor pedal are routed as straight vertically as possible. This is usually not a problem on walking foot machines, as the floor pedal sits pretty much under the left edge of the motor and control lever.

I have bought 4 Family Sew 550s motors from Toledo Industrial and have had no problems at all. They usually arrive in one or two business days, depending on what time you order (re: UPS truck pickup time). Two are on 441 machines and two on walking foot machines, one of which I sold. The only caveat I discovered is that they work better if you pull the lever straight down, rather than on an angle. Pulling on an angle flexes the shaft and sensor and can cause a slowdown at the end of travel, just when you expect more speed.

Caba; You should get back to Darren and ask him for the specs on his Able patchers. It is a custom build he commissioned.

The 29k patchers used to require system 29x3 and 29x4 needles, which are no longer made. However, system 135x16 is the same length from the top of the shank to the eye. They are a good substitute. As for the maximum thickness, it is 1/4 inch of leather. Since the bobbins are teensie weensie, most folks only thread them with #69 bonded thread (and a #18 needle). Also, if the feed motion crank is worn down, as they usually are on such old machines, the stitch length will suffer tremendously. I once had that model and it only sewed 8 to the inch when I got it. As for sewing boot uppers, that is what they are made to sew. A local bootmaker came to my shop to sew uppers on my long arm, big bobbin, Singer 29k172. The only parts it couldn't sew were the pull tabs on the back (~3/8" thickness). For those, we used my Cowboy CB4500.

I would offer the driver a cash tip to help you offload it and get it into your garage. They usually offer a lift gate option for an extra $75 or so. Did you request this? It would at least get the machine on the ground.

Not really too far gone yet. But, that slack does not heal itself. I have two patchers. One has almost no slack and the other has about as much as yours. Neither skips stitches on a regular basis. But, both skip occasionally. Patchers are what they are.

Yes. If the shuttle driver hole is worn and it allows the shuttle driver to move around the set screw, the timing will become retarded at the worst time. So, getting that screw out becomes the most important factor to determining if there is excessive slack in the drive system.

I felt the same as you the day I brought my first Union Lockstitch machine home. It did have one needle and awl and one bobbin. There was nothing else. No manual, threading rod, 4-sided wrenches, thread, et al. All this came together in one day when I was pointed to a particular harness maker who had one in a corner, with everything I needed. I am confident that you will find somebody, possibly Amish or Mennonite, who knows this particular Puritan setup.

If the only changed is the thread, I vote for the check spring having too much travel, or tension, or both.

So, ti So, a Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy neither admits not denies knowing anything about it!

Nice seat!

The 2700 has a tension release pin. You should not have to pull the top thread by hand, unless the beehive spring is set too tight and the links can't compress. If the spring is that tight, back it off until the disks are able to separate. Then back off the bobbin spring tension to balance the knots.

Okay. If you don't have a precision torch, try using a hammer on the back of the precision screw driver, tapping as you turn.

For my CB4500 it took a standard washer with a 1/4" inside diameter, to correct the fwd/bkwd stitch lengths, plus sometimes re-matching the bottom of the inside foot to the needle making contact with the leather. I'm guessing the washer is about 1/16" thick, or a little less. I frequently recommend this trick, which I was given by Bob Kovar.

Take the shuttle out again and polish the trailing edges. Feel the race, driver and bobbin case for any nicks and polish them out as well. When you reinstall the race plate, leave the spring loaded screws backed off about 1/2 turn each. Oil the race. The reverse not matching forward is a compound error with multiple possible fixes, listed below in order of simplicity/difficulty. Adjust the inside presser foot position so that its bottom meets the top of the leather at about the same time as the needle begins to poke the leather. I know this doesn't sound like a fix, but it can be. Use the large hex driver that came with your Cobra to loosen the hex head screw on the left rear of the head, where the arm transfer motion to the presser feet. Once loosened, you can move the inside foot by hand to match the position of the needle. Tighten the screw afterward. If the above has no effect, or not enough improvement, loosen the top screw on the stitch lever plate and place a washer behind the plate, then tighten the screw back down. This moves the top of the stitch length plate away a little and shortens the stroke in reverse. There is a major stitch length/position adjustment available inside the front access port and another important bolt inside the rear access hole. Consult the paperwork that should have come with your machine. Or, wait until you can get in touch with Steve to talk you through it. A wrong adjustment will make things much worse.

Try a little heat on the needle clamp. Remove the screws, needle and thread first. Tap on it sideways with a rawhide or plastic mallet. It will come loose. Keep in mind that it moves sideways. I think heat may also help loosen the set screw in the driving pinion. If not, try to drill it out. Then replace the shuttle driver, driving pinion gear and set screw. I have found that new replacement parts don't fit the same as Singer parts did. You may have to tap on the bearing that holds the shuttle driver after installing new (top and bottom) parts. The shuttle screw needs to be tightened all the way. If the original is tight, but the hole in the shuttle driver or pinion gear is worn oversize, you will get slack in the timing.

Parts for Landis and Pearson needle and awl machines, as well as fully rebuilt machines. Landis Sales and Service 115 East Co. Rd. 500 North Arthur, Illinois 61911 Eli Schlabach (217) 543-3464

Of course, you are right. All that is missing is a picture of Howdy Doody on the lid. Then it would be a lunch box! Didi you notice the high tech AC cord and modern 2 prong plug that comes with the machine? I'll bet it could be used to power a doll house. How many sewing machines can do that? Heck, it could even sew the doll clothes.

I'll bet that the little beast can sew up to 3/4 mm of real leather!