Wizcrafts

The 2700 has a tension release pin. You should not have to pull the top thread by hand, unless the beehive spring is set too tight and the links can't compress. If the spring is that tight, back it off until the disks are able to separate. Then back off the bobbin spring tension to balance the knots.

Okay. If you don't have a precision torch, try using a hammer on the back of the precision screw driver, tapping as you turn.

For my CB4500 it took a standard washer with a 1/4" inside diameter, to correct the fwd/bkwd stitch lengths, plus sometimes re-matching the bottom of the inside foot to the needle making contact with the leather. I'm guessing the washer is about 1/16" thick, or a little less. I frequently recommend this trick, which I was given by Bob Kovar.

Take the shuttle out again and polish the trailing edges. Feel the race, driver and bobbin case for any nicks and polish them out as well. When you reinstall the race plate, leave the spring loaded screws backed off about 1/2 turn each. Oil the race. The reverse not matching forward is a compound error with multiple possible fixes, listed below in order of simplicity/difficulty. Adjust the inside presser foot position so that its bottom meets the top of the leather at about the same time as the needle begins to poke the leather. I know this doesn't sound like a fix, but it can be. Use the large hex driver that came with your Cobra to loosen the hex head screw on the left rear of the head, where the arm transfer motion to the presser feet. Once loosened, you can move the inside foot by hand to match the position of the needle. Tighten the screw afterward. If the above has no effect, or not enough improvement, loosen the top screw on the stitch lever plate and place a washer behind the plate, then tighten the screw back down. This moves the top of the stitch length plate away a little and shortens the stroke in reverse. There is a major stitch length/position adjustment available inside the front access port and another important bolt inside the rear access hole. Consult the paperwork that should have come with your machine. Or, wait until you can get in touch with Steve to talk you through it. A wrong adjustment will make things much worse.

Try a little heat on the needle clamp. Remove the screws, needle and thread first. Tap on it sideways with a rawhide or plastic mallet. It will come loose. Keep in mind that it moves sideways. I think heat may also help loosen the set screw in the driving pinion. If not, try to drill it out. Then replace the shuttle driver, driving pinion gear and set screw. I have found that new replacement parts don't fit the same as Singer parts did. You may have to tap on the bearing that holds the shuttle driver after installing new (top and bottom) parts. The shuttle screw needs to be tightened all the way. If the original is tight, but the hole in the shuttle driver or pinion gear is worn oversize, you will get slack in the timing.

Parts for Landis and Pearson needle and awl machines, as well as fully rebuilt machines. Landis Sales and Service 115 East Co. Rd. 500 North Arthur, Illinois 61911 Eli Schlabach (217) 543-3464

Of course, you are right. All that is missing is a picture of Howdy Doody on the lid. Then it would be a lunch box! Didi you notice the high tech AC cord and modern 2 prong plug that comes with the machine? I'll bet it could be used to power a doll house. How many sewing machines can do that? Heck, it could even sew the doll clothes.

I'll bet that the little beast can sew up to 3/4 mm of real leather!

Let me tell you a secret Ewe. There be Puritans in Toledo ;-)

If Puritan says they have parts, they do. As for Ceroxylon, it is clear and has the consistency of thin rubber glue. While wet, Ceroxylon is a lubricant for linen thread. Once it dries it hardens the linen thread, on both sides (since it sews a chain stitch). Although I kept a quart, I found no other use for Ceroxylon after disposing of my Union Lockstitch machine. It does not get along well with regular eye-needle machines, like my CB4500. If you don't want it, I might. I'm up in Flint./Burton, not too awful far from you. I would leave it as a single needle post machine and use it to sew sandals, hats, bags and such.

Are you sure? It looks like the one he wants is the one that's missing! ;-)

I also prefer to use diamond or triangle point needles when sewing 3/4 inch or more. The stitches lay more on top and bottom on the edges than those sewn with S point needles. Thus, 5 to the inch looks like 5 on top and bottom, whereas with an S point it looks shorter due to the inline slice of the chisel point needle. I keep diamond point in sizes 24 and 25 for my CB4500. I also found that the diamond points are less likely to fray existing stitches than the S points, in very thick leather. I sewed a holster that was a solid 7/8 inch and could not do the job with an S point, which kept fraying the thread. The D point went forward and backward without a hitch.

No, straight stitch feet won't fit into the slotted presser bar. Walking foot machine mechanisms are usually too strong for thin garments. You might try buying a wider set of feet, then back off the pressure screw until the adjust is almost all the way up. You can reduce the alternating lift to a minimum ratio by loosening and moving the crank arm coming out the back all the way either up or down (I don't remember which way lowers the lift and I am at home now) in the curved slot that drives the presser feet. The combination of reduced lift and pressure on the feet may allow it to sew cloth. Also, use the smallest round point needle you can get, with standard cotton or polycore garment thread. A #14 needle will do fine with polycore 40 weight thread, or a #12 needle with regular 50 weight cotton thread. Shorten the stitches to 10 or 12 per inch to reduce puckering and back off the upper tension to try to lower the knots into the cloth. You may or may not also have to reduce the tension on the check spring to get it to move with thin, soft thread.

IDK. Try the heat first. If you can free the screw it might come out with a regular screw driver. At least tap on it when you heat it up. This may improve the depth of the worn slot.

Try a combination of a precision torch to heat the screw and an impact screw driver to loosen and remove it.

Fortunately for me, thread-wise, I live in Michigan. UV deterioration isn't much of a problem up here, especially when most of my sewing is on garments, biker vests, belts, holsters, tow straps, pouches and cases.

I just looked up some sources for Tenara thread and the cheapest was $99.99 for an 8 oz spool!

Here ya go, with Roger Miller's Husbands and Wives.

Caba; Why don't you look up Darren Brosowski, owner of Able Sewing Machines and Anne Bonny's Locker (in Australia)? I'm not sure what province he is in, but he can hook you up with good thread for your machine. Ask him about the high tenacity bonded thread that he carries. He may know other dealers closer to you.

That gear driven motor was the SewPro 500GR. The company that built them made nothing else. One day they decided that making the cases out of aluminum and reducing the top speed would save money and shipping costs to the dealers, allowing them to compete with the lighter weight push button servo motors that were the rage. What they didn't know, since they were builders, not users, was that the heat from the spinning motor and coils was going to warp the aluminum casings. The complaints and returns increased suddenly and rather than returning to the old cast iron case (and higher top speed), they decided to close the factory and go home, for good. Poof! No motor for you! This is how things are sometimes done in China.

Post some photos of the thread path and I, and/or others will assist you until Steve is able to get back to you. We will be wanting to see the top thread as it goes around the top tension disks, then around the bottom set, through the check spring , up through the take-up lever, and down to the needle. Why? Because sometime the thread is overly twisty and can twist out of the upper tension disks to the point of having no tension at all.

A #22 needle suggests that the OP is using #138 (T135) bonded thread. A more appropriate needle is #23, with a chisel shaped leather point. #22 makes a very tight hole when you consider that the top and bottom threads are overlapped and form a knot that needs to be brought up. That class 2218 is just a standard upholstery grade, medium duty, compound feed walking foot machine.

TinkerTailor; Beware of drop shipped machines from China. They are usually assembled enough to ship, but not to sew. They expect the importer to be a dealer with a sewing machine mechanic who can adjust everything and make it sellable and sewable. Once major Chinese sewing machine company offered to perform a true expert setup and timing and sew it off for an additional fee amounting to about $200 USD, for a person who was consulting with me. In effect, they would become his dealer, which is not part of their usual business model as manufacturers. As for dealers not responding to emails in a timely fashion, many of them are very small operations with maybe one or two employees. Some are barely in the Internet age and are used to doing business over the phone (via a toll free number). One I know personally spends most of the day actually working on industrial sewing machines for a variety of needle trades. They do not have anybody dedicated to doing email or online inquiries. Like the song says: Some can and some can't.

If this is true, Consew must have improved the low end performance of their oil pumps. Other/older oil pumped sewing machines have definitely required much higher average sewing speeds to distribute the oil to the ends of the long wicks. FWIIW: The last time I sat at a self oiled Singer 192 to service it, it was geared about 2:1 at the motor, thus spinning at about 3500 rpm. The clutch brake was backed off enough that I could feather it down to about 10 or 15 stitches per second. The oil didn't move in the inspection bubble at that rate. When I floored the pedal I got oil flowing. The ladies who used that and similar machines were making hospital smocks or aprons and sewed with the pedal down. This translates into about 58 stitches per second.

As I recall, I used to have to rotate the wheel on my National 300N walking foot machine to a certain position before the bobbin case would come out and go back in. That machine resembled a Consew 206RB5 and also had a horizontal shuttle shaft, like the Consew.