Jump to content

alb

Members
  • Posts

    182
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by alb

  1. I see you're in Missouri. You might want to take a few to the swap/sale night at the IFOLG show in St. Louis in October.
  2. definitely take advantage of the list, but don't give up on finding a mentor in real life. Start looking around for saddle makers and shops. I wouldn't go in asking for an apprenticeship right off the bat but you may find someone who would be willing to let you watch or answer some questions about the projects you bring in. That could at some point develop into an apprenticeship. Good luck! Ann
  3. Well I'm not ruling it out totally yet. I have never been and really want to go but I'm going to OKC for a class in September and I'm not sure I can swing both trips. If I do decide to go, I would love to meet you. Did you ever develop your saddle tree workshop? Ann
  4. So do you repair newer ralide or just have a policy of no ralide repairs at all? Ann
  5. I appreciate your post. I wonder what the practical lifespan of Ralide is. Thanks, Ann
  6. Most of the saddles I have restored have been in memory of grandparents or parents or to ready them for being passed along to kids. I like how you both said it - they contain a certain essence of the person who owned them, a touchstone to someone who is no longer here. I would say they contain a certain essence of the maker as well. I view it as a privilege to restore these saddles. Especially if you are restoring this for yourself, and you know you won't be riding it, you may be able to restore the leather. I love the Preservation Solution products. They do an amazing job. Anybody else here use them? Sometimes my customers come in telling me they won't ever be riding this saddle again, it's just for display, but when they see the finished product they immediately start talking about riding it. It makes me smile. Ann
  7. Tina - do you use the liquid, paste or gel antiques? Bobby - how do you apply the neatlac as a resist? I find that I am having a difficult time staying out of the cuts. The last carving I did - I don't really do much- I resorted to using a very small paint brush and painting on the resist in certain areas. It was very time consuming. Thanks in advance. Ann
  8. I can't see the pictures clearly enough to give advice on this particular saddle. That being said, our shop has repaired ralide trees that have stood up well over time. Tom repaired a ralide tree which had broken in several places when a horse rolled over onto it. He glued and nailed pieces back together and fiberglassed the whole thing. It came back a year later when another horse rolled over onto it and this time the horn had broken but the rest of the tree was fine. The leather on this saddle looks like it's in good shape. I agree that you should probably take it to a saddler. You might find the repair is going to cost you more than you want to spend. Ann
  9. Great looking bag! Very nice workmanship. Ann
  10. I use the cutting wheel on a machine like this to cut sole bends to size for resoling boots and to cut custom sizes of hard rubber for heel tips on high heel shoes. Bruce - thanks for the insight into the 3rd (and 5th) functions. I've wondered about it for awhile...... Ann
  11. Hey Trox - I like seeing other languages on the forum. It's the only time I see Norwegian - that's for sure. Google Translate is a cool application! I've even learned a couple of cuss words in German - lol!
  12. THanks for the reply. I should have realized there was no shortcut - just an incredibly steady hand and an attention to detail. Again - great work - thanks for posting it! Ann
  13. So Beautiful! Have you ever done a picture tutorial showing your work from start to finish? If so, I would love to see it. Ann
  14. I like those very much. The detail on the carving is great. The black and red one is striking. I'd like to know how you did the coloring on that one.
  15. I really like the animal you created. I'm wondering what type of applicator you used for the coloring of the animals. I live the look very much. Ann
  16. Excellent work!
  17. very cool! thanks for posting. Ann
  18. Fantastic! I love it when creative and artistic people do leatherwork! Ann
  19. I've not tried the Weaver's product. It sounds interesting. I do use products made by Preservation Solutions and I love them! The saddle and tack conditioner does not darken leather and it works great. You do need to let it sit a day or two to see the full effect and sometimes add a second coat. (wouldn't have to do this on something new - just on older, dry leather) Be sure you don't over oil/condition. Ann
  20. It's beautiful! I look forward to seeing more. Ann Since it is not bad responded ,I am thinking about trying more of this kind.
  21. I've not ever made one but I would suggest that you get a fishing reel in hand rather than trying to work from a picture. Ann
  22. Well - the same advice applies - light coats till you get what you want. It's much easier to overdo it than to get it spot on. Have fun! Ann Thanks Ann I'm really looking for more of a brown color. I'll experiment a little more. Thanks again Jack
  23. Oh - got it! You never know on this site. There are some amazing artists that can make something look like something else.. You sure did a nice job! Ann
  24. THose are really snazzy. I love how the flowers and the pink leather play off the barbed wire. Great! Ann
  25. As you know dying can be tricky. Do some more testing on scrap. You can mix the british tan and another brown to get the shade you want. Just keep track of the proportions so that you can duplicate it when you get to the real thing. Keep in mind the original difference between scrap and your holster. It sounds like you want to keep some of the red tone. Apply the dye very lightly, and let it dry thoroughly between coats. When you first load up whatever you are using as an applicator, press it onto some paper towel or other paper to remove much of the dye, enabling you to apply a light coat of dye. Good luck! Ann
×
×
  • Create New...