terrymac

JR pretty well pegged the same finish procedure I use with the exception of using Bee's Natural Saddle Oil rather than olive oil. I just like the way it looks. Just one word of warning to everybody, don't use Neatlac (Clearlac) as a resist for any of theEco Flo antiques. The two don't work, and you will end up with the ugliest colors I have ever seen. Stick with the old true and tried Fieblings Antique Paste. Terry

The "Sheridan Style Carving" book by Bob Likewise and Clinton Fey has several sheridan belt patterns. Can be purchased at Tandy's and many other supply companies. If you are interested in sheridan carving, this book is the Holy Grail Terry

Dittos for the SK-3. Paul of Leather Wrangler has come up with a metal alloy that holds an edge better than anything I have ever used. I have used mine for over a year now, and have only used a stone a couple of times. Stropping with the rouge compound they also sell is all I have needed. Terry

Calf leather is as the name implies, it comes from a younger animal. It is lighter in weight, normally 2 to 3 ozs, and is usually fairly blemish free. It is also softer. Most of the normal veg tan leather you are referring comes from older animals that have processed in a packing plant, probably cattle 12 to 18 months of age, and the heaveir coming from cows, bulls that have passed their prime. As far as I know, calf leather is also veg tanned. Tandy sells calf leather as well. They sell it as Petite Tooling Calf and Kip Tooling Side. Hope this helps. Terry

Jphn, Do you know anything about the history of the stitching pony. I swear I have got its twin a friend of mine gave me. They look identical down to the metal teetch. Mine has no covering on the seat, and you can see where is was scooped out with ??? My friend guessed it was over a 100 years old. Just curious, Terry

I, also, did not like the way neatsffot oil darkened the leather. I am now using Bee's natural saddle oil, and there is no darkening, at all. This is some good stuff!! Actually gives the leather a golden tone. I went to their website and ordered as no one in this country had ever heard of it. Terry

Max, Does the weld wood remain pliable after it has dried, and what kind of job does it do on awls? I have read that it bonds extremely well, but Super Glue does also, but it sure isn't pliable. I have been using Tandy Contact Cement and it seems to work well, and I've also read Masters is really good. Always looking for something better. Thanks, Terry

My best guess would be the stain isn't penetrating the leather well due to the resist effect of the initial coat of clear lac. I do about the same thing you are doing without doing any stain. If I am dying the background, I do it before the oil application. I use Fiebings antique paste, and after applying, immediately wiping off all that will come with wool. The wool works better than a cloth as the fibers tend to get more of the antique off. The main effect of the antique is in the knife cuts and tool impressions. Just out of curiosity, why are you applying a stain? If you are wanting a darker color, go to a darker antique paste, and apply a light coat of Clearlac. I usually apply two coats of Neatlac(Clearlac), to minimize the darkening effect. Hope this helps Terry

If you want a professional finish on your edges, read Hidepounder's tutorial in this part of the forum. He explains why he won't use it and why. I personaly don't like the way it looks on the edge and the resulting finish. Terry

Just to second what Pete says, Bee's Natural Saddle Oil is great stuff. Does not darken leather as Neatsfoot, nor does it give strange colors like olive oil. I used Neatsfoot for a long time, but never liked the way it darkened the leather, and the one time I tried extra virgin olive oil, I ended up with a strange coloration of the leather. Alot of people use olive oil and it may just have the particular brand I tried. I am staying with the Bee's. Terry

Immediately. As soon as you wipe on, wipe it off. Terry

Bob, Where are you getting your oxalic acid? I've been to Lowe's and Home Depot, and they don't carry the stuff. Only one or two people had ever heard of it. As a side note, I've tried EVOO and ended up with a strange tint to the leather. I know it works for you, but not for me. Hae you tried Bee's Natural Saddle Oil? This stuff ranks up there with WD-40 and duct tape as indispensable. Doesn't darken and give a rich tone to the leather. Thanks, Terry

Why don't you apply some oil prior to dying? Just let the oil dry overnight, dye and apply your BagKote. The Bag Kote will penetrate the oil. I do not moisten prior to using Pro oil dye. Hope this helps, Terry

I use a 16oz. Bearman maul for all my tooling. If I did a lot of basket weave stamping I would probaby want a 24oz. For punches, I use an old rawhide mallet. Probably wouldm't hurt the maul at all, but I have the old mallet, so I just use it. Terry

I would say you need to keep your stitch line at least 1/8" away from the edge. By the time you round and work you edges, it doesn't leave much room for error. If you are wanting to tool, I think you are going to have to go at least 1' wide and maybe more. Dirtclod was right when he said your tooling area is going to be tiny. Terry

Vince, I recently changed the oil I am using because of the darkening I was getting from using Neatsfoot oi. I have gone to Bee's Natural Saddle Oil, and it does not darken the leather. If anything, it gives it a golden hue. Good stuff. If you are trying to achieve the coloring shown in alot of Sheridan work, most of that is done through the use of an antique paste. The old proven way of doing this is using a resist first, the applying the paste over. You need to get some "Clear Lac" which is the same product of Tandy's old Nealac, and rub a light over the entire piece after you have finished tooling, and oiling. Let it dry, the apply the antiques paste over the entire piece. At this time you will think you have really screwed up, but the paste will wipe off, leaving the cuts and tooling highlighted. There is a video on You Tube explaining the process, or you can get a copy of the "Sheridan Style Carving" book which goes into detail on how to do the process. I apply a couple of coats of the resist to lessen the effect of the paste. You can buy the Clearlac from Springfield Leather or Panhandle Leather in Amarillo. Word of warning, don't try to use the Clearlac with any of the Eco products, they don't mix. Use Fiebings Antique Paste Hope this helps, Terry

For someone just beginning, they are indispenseable. Not only show the cut lines, but also show which tools to use, and what the final result should look like. It is hard enough to learn the basics of tooling without the added burden of coming up with a useable design. Terry

The primary difference is in the quality of the steel in the blade. For instance, Paul at Leather Wranglers came up with an alloy that is unbelievale in its abiliity to maintain a sharp edge. He developed this alloy in conjunction with Sandia National Labs. I am sure there are some other quality knives out there, but IMHO, the SK-3 can't be beat. Go the the "Leather Tools" part of the Forum and see all of the comments concerning this knife. Hope this helps, Terry

I really don't understand when you say your tooling disappears in the dye. Are you trying toa achieve a two tone affect, or are you just dying the background, and leaving the tooled natural? You will have people tell you to oil prior to dying and some will say oil after your dye. Personaly, I oil before I dye, and let it dry overnight. If you could explain a little more about your dying proble, we might be able to provide a better answer. I don't care for the Eco Flow products, just use Fiebings. Terry

Bees Natural Products put out a saddle oil with a fungicide that will stop mold from growing. It was developed for saddle makers in humid climates that have a real proble with mold and mildew. Might help with your problem Terry

I use a lot of Fiebings Pro Oil in the dark brown color, and I just keep putting it on until it all evens out. I apply with disposable foam brushes, and for what ever reasons, different parts of the leather take the dye differently. Perhaps it is the amount in the brush, or areas of the leather tanned a little differently. What I have found is that regardless how much I put on, it remains a dark brown. I apply, let it soak in, find the lighter areas, and go back over it, sometimes 3 or 4 times. I have never had the dyed area turn anything than what I would expect dark brown to be. Maybe it is just dumb luck, but it works for me. Terry

Spinner, I used neatsfoot oil for a long time, but I never liked the way it darkened the leather. I tried some Bee's Natural Saddle Oil and it doesn't darken at all. If anything, it gives the leather sort of a golden hue. It is good stuff. Just an option. Terry

Bobby, Those are really neat. If you don't mind me asking a question, what kind of knife blade are you using to get the cuts to be as wide as they are. I am using a Leather Wrangler knife, and I really like it , but the cuts are narrow. I am assuming it has to do with the blade thickness and angle it is sharpened at. Again, those are beautiful. Thanks, Terry

I agree with Dave. Bob Park is the master of beautiful edges. Just follow his process, and you will be amazed at how they look. I haven't quite reached the point where I cam duplicate his edges, but I am getting closer. Just follow closely. Good luck! Terry

A drill press works well,, and if you can catch them on sale, the price is not too bad considering the work it saves you. I bought mine at Lowe,s for a little over $100.00, and it even has a laser sight that also helps. I did not get one of the baby models, but rather a larger bench model. For a chuck, I took my Tandy awl handle, and merely pulled the chuck out of the handle. Those things are pressed into the handle, and have abut a 1/4" round shaft. Just like putting a drill bit in the press. Not only is it much easier to punch the leather, but you can also rig a guide that will keep your distance uniform and all in a straight line. Hope this hekps Terry