JLSleather

Over simplified, the "general rule" is whatever you add to the front, you will need to take from the back. I will get to an actual article about this, but when I do I'll put it on the site, rather than here on LW.

Is there such a thing as a mold for the King Cobra?

It will depend on the model of gun. Can't really get a 'solid' answer from "how big is a holster?" or "how long is a belt?" But I can tell you that one version of the Sig P320 is about 7/8" difference between teh back and the front - which I know because I measured it the other day.

I'd like these. Paypal work for you? Beretta PX4 Storm Ruger SR9 Ruger LCP W/ LaserLyte Glock G17 (Gen3)

Just to be clear, I used teh Tandy link because they had a good pic. I was not "recommending" getting anything at Tandy, nor was I warning against it. I also do not advocate allowing a spouse in any store

You can see pics of all the above https://www.tandyleather.com/en/category/snaps The "segma" snaps are line 16

Yeah, it was largely the hand stitchin' that makes it not worth the trouble I personally do NOT like line 20 or 24 snaps on a belt. Just causes a bunch of bulk (they sit pretty high). If I make a belt with snaps (and I DO) then I use line 16 (3 of em). For a "thumb break" on a holster, I use the 24's, simply because that's the 'look' people are accustomed to (like a "reinforcement" panel -- not necessary, but some folks think it belongs there). Teh 24's would be fine on something scabbard sized. But you'll likely want leather heavier than those can go through. Bad news.. it may mean more sewing Put the snap through a small (and decoratively shaped) piece of lighter leather (say, 6 oz?) and then sew that piece with the snap onto the main body. You know.. think ranger belt

Much of it cosmetic .. "curb appeal". Some factors: Not much difference in the holding strength between line 20 and line 24 snaps, and line 16's are stronger than a guy might think. Line 16 will set in 8/9 leather - the 20 and 24 may not. The line 16, while strong enough, may not look 'proportional' on a rifle case. I use those "hand" setters, seem to work fine. Trick is to get teh snaps from one place, since they vary from one place to another. You can get a press/dies to set all of these (plus others) but I'd have to have some volume to make it worth setting that up. While a guy "could" make a case for $300, I personally would not (though, no opinion formed if the next guy does).

Sent. Some of these suppliers out of control -- ordered shark 5/23, got a "tracking number" the same day, found out that number was wrong only after contacting THEM 9 days later... and now shows delivery perhaps Monday ...

I mean this.. don't matter if teh screws are #6 or #8, long as they aint 1/4" and they're about 3/4" long. So teh spacers would need to be about 3/4" (though I can cut those if that's a problem), and the t-nuts match 6-32 or 8-32. Washers 'n' flatheads, don't matter if they're black or stainless .

You got clips inch anna quarter wide? Not like 1 1/4" belt, but fit 1 1/2 or 1 3/4" belt and the CLIP is 1 1/4" wide? have to hunt a minute for the parts in one pic.. never occured to me to take a pic of them

Anybody got a couple sets you can let go of? 2, or 10, whatever. Paypal is fine, but i want 'em mailed. No patience for some "company" to take my money on Friday and not ship anything 'til middle of next week or later. Need the t-nut, spacer, washer and screw.... for full size automatic holster. Whatcha got? LONG AS I'M AT IT ... I could use a few belt clips, too. Something in the 1.25" wide range.

Been a while, but i used to get them at http://stleather.com/2015-p09.html They never update the site, or their catalog either I think. But teh product has always been good -- just call 'em.

Yeah, this is really what I was referring to. Well, I was just unwinding in a slightly silly way -- really didn't intend to suggest to the next guy that he should or should not work with someone else. Not my business equals none of my business But if something was gained from the conversation, even better! Crazy ride there for a while... moving, selling houses (more than one), buying houses, getting taxes submitted (though not "filed"), getting kids in schools (more than one kid and more than one school), insurance and driver licenses and vehicle registrations and .... phew Getting back to work will be like a vacation.

Your dowel is showing. Otherwise, looks good as usual

Actually, I think the reverse is true -- selling "through" someone else is likely to do LESS for your name than selling it yourself. On the face, someone "helping" you may seem like an okay idea. Say you sell something through "Jeff's store". But people like it, or they don't. IF they don't, most will move on and not think about it again -- just another something they bought that turned out not to be what they thought it would be. IF they do like it, or maybe their buddy likes it, and they want more -- where do they go? They go "to Jeff's" - that's where you get those. Anybody see an issue here?

HEY.. I started out just to make a light-hearted comment we could get a kick out of. But you make some points here .. Pay upfront is an important part If the "discount" is acceptable to you, that's all that matters. Letting the product speak for itself -- I like it! WAY too much of that 'other crap' these days ... buy my stuff because it's sold at Jeff's, or Walmart, or Cabelas, whatever (which apparently is it's only value). Remember those commercials... "as seen on tv .." I've seen some people who are quite good at graphic design, web programming, "social" media (wake up, people, if they're selling something, it isn't 'social') .. but whose actual product was not good. So, what do you do? Go on about "as seen on Fakebook ..." Yeah, amazing people still fall for that! And there you have it. I've sold houses I had a lot more work in than any bit of leather. If the new owner decides to burn it down, that's up to them -- they can do what they want with it. But if I'm selling, and you're buying, then WHY are we paying the realtor (store owner)?@!# It isn't their house. They didn't do the work. So I'm not paying them. I don't hate 'em, but I'm not paying them.

I wouldn't. I'm not sure what I said that makes you think I was "mad" about any of it. Generally, I just delete them and ignore. If I get a couple close together in time, perhaps a mild irritation worth joking about on a forum somewhere ..

Yeah, no 'consignment' either. But, I'm not mad about it. Those people.. I don't hate 'em, just seem to like it better when they aint around

Well, Ebay is a bit out of control .. looks like about 15% in fees by time it's over. Cutesy is about half of that (right around 7-ish %), and at that rate I can stand to list "standard" items- those which don't involve a lot of time. I write that off as advertising. And I pay for web hosting on a site where I don't even have a store. No trouble, all that all works out for me. No, I'm talking about those people who like that word "wholesale", as in you sell it to us at about 40-50%, and 'make it up' on the volume. Uh.. no thanks-- if getting bent over is bad, then getting bent over a dozen times should theoretically be worse Since I do have some stuff over at etsy and more on the site, then they shouldn't need much "demo" models -- maybe they care to buy a couple and I'll send them 50 business cards? Seems there's just too much disparity between the terms they would like and the ones I would prefer Yes, most (if not all) 'stores' in the US are just that. I'm not aware of any original walmart designs Not a real concern to me --- they can do what they want (in fact, I've actually shopped at Walmart as recently as this year). But I think I'll not put my stuff in the window.

Well, these are actual places who really do have stores... and strange opinions about what constitutes "earning" a living.

You mean this?

Every so often I get contacted by someone "interested in" my work. People I've never heard of before, who want to "partner with" me, or "carry your line", 'n' such. Translation: We want to sell the stuff you make, pay you less than the asking price, and have some of the money go to us instead of you. We'd like you to put in more hours to make the same money, since we'd be keeping the difference ourselves. Seriously -- these people are in the wrong business.. they could have been doing stand-up comedy all this time!

Tan-Kote has been used to thin antique paste for years, even though Fiebings had it right on the label of the paste -- DO NOT MIX WITH TAN KOTE. People do what they do. It does look like your Saddle-Lac went on pretty heavy. I use it one some belts, in three very light coats, over the course of a day. No problems with cracking or peeling. Note that once I got a can that had "something" wrong with it.. came out heavy, and impossible to apply thin coats. Replaced that can, and back to normal (never did know WHY).

Some folks really prefer not to have the "sweat shield", and then there are also some foiks who just plain do not want a "reinforcement panel" on it. I generally include both in the patterns, since some look for it. Easy enough to just not use it if a guy don't want it in there (personally, I like the sweat guard but don't care for the panel). If you find you like the idea of a shield, but have some issues you're describing, you might try either "stiffening" the shield itself, widen the shield, so it spreads over more area-- note some think this is better, some say worse; make the back panel from two layers of 4 oz (instead of one 8 oz) - it's a bit more sewing, but firms up the shield which can be molded to angle back a bit. Actually, molded may not be the right word.. I mean actually pull it back (5-10 degrees?) when gluing the layers, so it tends to return to that position.