JLSleather

Yeah, that. Leave some room right here → ← for those about to rant that their '50/50' pancakes don't bind by nature Glad I could help -- idea is to get a fella jump in the water.. and presumably he find his own preference 'n' style. Folks must be using it.. got another email the other day.. about bandwidth usage and how to upgrade service so it doesn't 'crash' again

Yeah, it'll be fine.. works out one way or another. Would have been simpler if Tippman just state what they want for shipping, but Had they done that, they might have sold a couple dies, too...

I'd be willin' to chip in on some of that dust if'n ya kin find some That could come in handy in a number of places! But yeah -- the outside is made longer than the inside. How much depends on the model of the gun, and maybe even a little on the size of the wearer (if they're very slim or very large). Seems like usually about a inch (ish). I got a pattern layin' here for a LCP.. got about 5/8" difference between front and back.

Well that certainly didn't pan out. Some guy say the other guy call me after lunch Never did get a call. Ordered something from somebody.. don't even remmebr now, but I guess I'll see it when it gets here.

While yer at HF, pick up teh $29 sawzall and a $3 metal cutting blade... take that "bump" off the top "ram" right quick.

They sell 'em at Tandy. Maybe just go take a look?

Well, I do my own patterns, so I just kinda "do it".. not really making one from the other. I know it's "enuf" because I test it and alter/adjust the design if needed (it sometimes does need a tweak). Some ass (that's plural, actually) will be in in a minute to swear that what I said isn't true, but it's simple and basic -- pretty sure my Gramma gets it. Take your belt off. Fold it in half lengthwise. Put an apple between the layers. Falls out, right? Now put the apple in there again, and bend the ends of the belt around (hint: the apple doesn't fall - it's trapped by teh front binding on it). I thought I'd do a bit of a "write-up" about this, with some 'tutorial style' pics. But, now I'm thinking no point doing that here where it's fodder for someone with a complex - no point doing it on my site since I'm the only one I'd be telling

Nope, sure don't. They bind -- as a rule, binds worse on a slim feller than a big man (sharper angle turn). Most try to alleviate the worst pain by making the front 'wing' longer, but ... this works all the time. Those "pancakes" (regular in your terms) are everywhere, but I find that once a guy tries this he won't go back Front panel is longer than the back, so the curve is built in. As opposed to a "50/50' or 'regular' pancake, where the tabs or 'wings' are pulled into that shape, causing binding on the firearm. Other words, it's natural shape... not twisted into a shape .. thus it retains that position. Advantage is, this fits on the desk, and still fits on the waist.. unlike those "regular" ones that tighten on teh pistol when the belt is tightened, this is the same on or off the belt.

I must be using that crap more these days.. today, I was able to log on fakebook without looking up my password

That do look like somethin' them hippies was into back then For some reason, folks wanted to "mystery braid" everything! The leather library has a couple of books with quite a few handbag patterns .. https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/p-1727-ideas-for-leather-projects-vol-1-1923.aspx? https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/p-1759-ideas-for-leather-projects-vol-2-1934.aspx There are two volumes, and much of the same info in one is in the other (including that "mystery braid" thing). I don't see that exact stamping pattern.. probably shipped on a free 'doodle page" back in 'the day'....

I absolutely recommend the drill press. Those grinders are WAY too fast. Seriously, I don't do it all the time, but I can get a NICE edge on leather with a stick in my hand.. in a few minutes. In teh drill press, I can run down both sides of a belt twice (which is what I usually do) at about 600 rpm with a 3/4" diameter "stick" for burnishing. I have tried higher speeds (and also lower speeds), but this seems to work out about the best combination of speed and quality edges. So, I recommend a drill press... harbor freight got em for about $60. Only way I could see improving on that would be with a lathe -- NOT that it's better for burnishing, but rather that aguycould burnish AND do some other things as well. ANybody know surface speed? Like, if you put a mark on your burnisher at 12:00 position, basically, RPM is the number of times your mark will go by in one minute, and SFPM is the distance that mark "travels" in that minute (so, clearly influenced by the diameter). Example: 600 rpm with a 3/4" dia burnisher is running about 115 sfpm 3400 rpm with a 2" dia burnisher is running about 1800 sfpm, or about 15 times as fast.

You are exactly correct.

Your carving is not so bad as you think... some small changes will make a big difference. And yes -- the figure bevelers are worth having I know it's popular to recommend some y-tube (pronounced 'why-tube') or try to sell you something else, but none of this is necessary. Just don't understand why so many talk about continuing a very old art, then insist on reinventing the wheel So, I could write a page here, maybe link some 'stuff', blahblahblah... OR, I could just point you to an article right on this site where some gal already covered this extremely well

The pressure required is dependent on the length of the cut (bigger dies take more tonnage). Most of us who have these presses would be fine with the 12 ton .. but we got teh 20 because it was the same price (or sometimes less). Not pretty, but true

Thanks Wiz -- informative as usual.

There's a line forming for the bird feeder?@!@#$! Taken from the second floor deck over the back yard ... this guy waiting his turn while his buddy raids the bird seed. Two dogs at the patio door didn't worry him one bit ...

That's why I asked about top thread path. Your needle/thread combos seem about right. On a project I just did, I was able to "smooze" through by 'shortening' the top thread route.. as in wrap around teh tensioner ONCE instead of the twice that would be "normal". First time I've had to do that.. and it was due to the bottom thread pulling up way too much. Problem solved.

IF someone sent you "hermann Oak" (in quotes because you're taking their word for it at that point) that is "fuzzy" -- scratch them off your list of suppliers. Period. I use H.O. all the time, and it is not 'fuzzy'. "B" grade is likely fine for what you're making, as you can cut out the "bits". W/C is also quite good, and I use that regularly as well. Very nice front and back. I do not "finish" the back side with anything.. never been a need to. You can - if you like - buy the leather already "pasted" on the back, though I personally do not.

Depends on where ya go. Mille Lacs -- which is known across the country for walleye -- is no walleye, all year. Closed. I did go check the river (there's a dam just up the road) on opening day, but couldn't shake off all the midget smallmouth bass. "Officially", you can keep 5 or 6 walleye, but only the runts. SD gal knows, fish gotta be 20" to be worth gittin' my knife dirty. Them fit my grill jus' fine. Under 17" (which is allowed), I eat 6 or 7 of those just as a snak while I'm waitin' fer supper ta be ready!

Yup. They don't say that in the brochures, but the reason they got fish up here is cuz there are laws against actually keepin' one here 'n' agin!

What .. yer more a shark person?@!# Alrightey then .... The S/W Shield in .45 - '80/20', black shark accent panel.

Them folks what givya the pricin' is outta lunch. Friendly fella on the phone, though -- even gave me some referral on the boys with the swing arm presses Callin' me back with pricin' after lunch .. 'Preciatecha Ron!

Holster turned out fine, but I really think I need to bite the bullet - pull the trigger - on a new camera. I'd put this one in teh tackle box, but that would only depress me with the reminder how long it's been since I got ta fish! Ahnyhoooo.... check out the 'curved pancake' aka '80/20' holster for the full size 1911 on fakebook ...

Thanks, Bill. From what I'm reading, that hdpe is fine for cutting with a knife, or a small punch. Not sure it has the toughness (durability) to withstand tonnage (prone to crack?). Appreciate the links and info! Sad part is, a plate FOR a clicker press could be on the way right now if they weren't determined to sign me up for something. Cutesy is the same -- they just started offering "guest" checkout, no registering on the site. It's better for me (and preferred, but not 'critical') to sell things NOT on there, but I have seen an increase in the dollar amount of sales since they stopped requiring people to sign up (people come from Google, and spend $100 in stead of $20).

Nah. don't think tha's gonna work. Too soft.. the "board" would "mush" instead of letting the blade cut. Needs to be more firm.. think more along the lines of kitchen cutting board (but not that).