JLSleather

I suppose that could be a laser... but I think it looks more like an embossing stamp or plate.

Some of these patterns in the process of becoming "kits" (glue not included ). Natural Hermann Oak A-grade, though I may add some drum dyed down the road. Front and back are die-cut, 'extra' piece included for reinf panel or dye test (you cut to suit). More dies being made ...

All that stitchin' makin' my pinkies hurt -- Otherwise, I like it

I'd set up another space for your situation. These dyes are flammable, and there have been cases of fires starting from sucking flammable fumes through an electrically operated (exhaust) fan.

HOW MANY straps? I get pretty good results using pro dyes (fiebings). No rub off. But if you're making multiple black straps, it may work better for you to just order drum dyed leather (comes already black). Wickett/Craig skirting is quite nice, and available in a wide range of thickness.

I like it. Just be sure to save the piece you cut out for when you do the 8" Oh, I saw you P320 rig --- also quite nice!

nope. You want two sides the same length and the same angle.

No offense taken -- each his own. As a rule, leather thickness for cases is dictated by teh size of the case and what it will contain, with larger and heavier items held in cases of heavier leather. For a small binder or portfolio type case (8.5x11" paper) I wouldn't use less than 6/7 oz, and more likely 8 or even 9 oz. Laminating, or layering, 3 layers of 3/4 would certainly be heavy enough to do that.

Not sure what you mean by "western", but there's a shoulder holster pattern in https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/p-1721-shoulder-holster-pattern-4416.aspx? Includes a good number of revo holsters ("not the "modern semi pistol" types)

Keep in mind also that the stitching holes themselves are already weakening the leather I did have the opportunity to see a notebook (3-ring) that I made years ago, with a groove. No issues. But that was an item which is generally laid flat on a table, or stuck in a book bag, most of the time. AND, it likely matters which way the stitching runs -- stitches running down a belt tend to be fine / stitches across the strap maybe not so good.

I don't care for that angled stitch, but he may be correct that the groove could "straighten" the stitch line. Sounds like that could be right. But I do not believe that "use" causes stitching to recess. In fact, thread stretches. The idea for a groove was to recess and protect the stitching from catching and rubbing, which causes fraying and stretching. I don't believe snagging or rubbing of the thread would cause thread to get tighter or deeper. I have never seen any leather item that needed repair due to the stitching becoming too tight, or recessed too much. Having said that, I don't generally use a groover (though I own a couple of them). The bit about weakening the leather is correct. In fact, that is true of about anything.. any time you cut it you weaken it (even a 2x4 is easier to break if you score it first).

You have answered your own question Much like training wheels, spreading the slots may make the holster less likely to "rock" on the belt, making for a smoother draw. Like widening your stance makes you more stable side to side. Keep in mind that slots wider than the belt lessen the benefit, and slots too far in can cause binding of the weapon from the wrap around the curve of the waist (which is commonly worse on a slim fella). A flat backed or curved back holster can reduce or even eliminate that problem. Oh, and I'm with Dwight -- I don't care for the muzzle extending at all (open bottom is fine). For the guys who like that, have at it.

I never recommend getting "economy" leather. Tooled or not, the better leather looks better every time, and it's easier to work with. And there isn't much "economy' in it anyway.. since the price isn't much difference and the waste is far more, so the "economy" may in fact be costing you MORE. Seriously,if you could find some place to "save" you $2 / foot less, you're still only talking about $40 more for the GOOD stuff! My wife used to get sucked into those "gimmick" pricing things... drive clear across town because there's a filling station advertising 10¢ off per gallon. Didn't compute that with a 20-gallon tank, they just got you to drive CLEAR across town to "save" $2 (and burned up that much going to get it). Yes, 3 layers of 3/4 is heavy enough for a case, absolutely. Some places, thinner leather is a few pennies less money. But if you're laminating it, the "savings" is eaten up in the extra leather. At Hermann Oak, the price is the same from 2/3 oz up to 8 oz.

It's a little dark to tell really. Personally I don't mind the "extra" border, or "halo" around your design. The mid-section of the leaves is a bit different than we're used to seeing. With the "shader", basically a matter of "bop where it should be low" might work. Tooling isn't difficult, and I think some people actually mess themselves up by looking at too many tooling patterns, or tooled items, instead of the flower or scroll that it's supposed to represent (which often results in over-tooling the design). The dark color and the basket stamp, together with teh "halo", give this project a bit of an "engraved" look that actually works. Just my take..

Well -- good news - you have room for improvement You don't have to double up the mortgage to get some doable tools, despite much of the advertising ("marketing") that goes on. I use craftools entirely, and seem to get by. I have seen some other brands which I think might be worth having - but really only the geometric stamps where the impression is not "walked" and needs to be crisp and clean from a straight-in bop (we're talking basket weave stamps, border stamps, etc.). The general "rule", if it's in the front (foreground), then bevel away from it (outside of it). Roses are a bit unique, in the way they are done - though the idea is the same. For ANYONE, not just those of us on a budget, I recommend a copy of stohlman's "tech tips" book. And I'm the last one to say go get a book, but that one really is that good, and will give you a solid start on tooling. This one can be done with a 368 "shader", a 936 beveler, a 198 beveler, and a 104 background tool. As you may have heard already, the older stamps are better than what is currently on the shelves at tandy stores. Check ebay.. always some listed there. If you can find the ones you need, expect to pay $2- $4 each. This wallet can be done with the same tools, and adding a small "stop" tool and a "veiner".

Contact the local Tandy. They were going to discontinue their "royal meadow" tooling leather, but some of the stores still have it. Very clean, nice consistent thickness, light color is great for dyeing a range of colors, and it's more flexible than Hermann Oak but still carves very nicely. You didn't say what weight, but royal meadow used to be available in 3/4, 4/5, and 5/6 oz

I wasn't aware that W/C stocked "tooling calf", but I can't remember that I ever asked, either. Not sure of the reason for the discoloration. Presumably, "calf" is slightly smaller sides than "cow", so maybe that's a question to ask. On the other hand, it's $95 -- so maybe worth getting just one or two to see it for yourself.

Lookin' good there. I need to get back to these -- haven't done one in years, but getting lots of requests lately. I really like tooling leather -- not sure I want to do all that lacing

It's going to depend on what you call "pro". I think the definition is that you get paid for it... has nothing to do with skill (or the lack of it). But the only one who decides what is "accepted" is the originator of the design in question. A while back I talked with a kid who had received a letter telling him that even though he wasn't being "prosecuted" as yet, he should stop using this other guys' designs (and he hinted about lawsuits). But looking at that guy's designs (the one who claimed he was being copied) there is nothing that is actually "his". Women's wallets made from embossed hides and prints, veg leather wallets and belts with a "fade" dyed on them (which is at least 70 years old), Harley Davidson wrote on more projects than not (I assume we all know that aint his), and an old anvil (which has been around since Clint Eastwood was slingin' a sidearm ). Seriously, before anybody goes on about "being copied", make sure your design really is your design. I've seen some real talent in leather over teh years, but I have yet to see anyone making anything nicer than Stohlman did. HEre's the point... if Al and Ann think it's "okay" to make Harley Davidson items, that means nothing without expressed permission from HD. It may be worth noting, I've never seen anything from the Stohlmans with an 'HD' on it. Incidentally, I recommended to that young man that he continue to do what he was doing - I wouldn't even reply to the letter. If somebody wants to invest his time and money in a case he can't win, let 'em.

Gittin' closer. Have to find the time to write up some slightly new directions for the "pancakes".. since these are not '50/50' 'down-the-middle' pieces (front panel is somewhat larger than the back). But I'm starting to arrange some 'avenger' style "blanks". Which are easily converted to an IWB or "appendix" -- guy who can sign his name won't need instructions for that... or will he? I often forget that people will pay for a pattern of a rectangle that gets folded over and stitched along the edge

I use the same cutter that gabby fella in the video uses. Difference is, I pull it just as he does about the 2 minute mark, maybe enough to get an inch or so beyond the tool. Then I come around the cutter and PUSH the cutter away from me, holding the end of the strap in the right hand and pushing the tool with the left (if facing the way he has it). I don't sharpen blades --- they're replaceable. But they're long enough you can use the top until less sharp, then move it down (inside the tool) and use the other end for a while. This works fine for cutting DOZENS of straps. If you want to cut HUNDREDS of straps, maybe a powered strap cutter with spacers is in order?

I don't worry much about "nice". At times, I'm prob'ly too 'nice' already. I've opted to say nothing when I certainly could have said things not-so-flattering. I mean, often people don't care to hear what they might legitimately (honestly) be told. Sadly, these days "fashionable" is more important than truthful (except at my house). NOT sadly, Ron's a big boy and doesn't need my opinion to do what he does.

Nope, never met 'im - though we've talked a few times. But not "inside" and not a "joke"... the edges look good, but the REST of the holster is more important -- and that ALSO looks purdy good! And I really have seen projects (not just holsters) where the edges look fine, but the project itself not so much (though, not Ron's).

Edges look good -- but truth is I don't give that maybe as much weight as some do (prolly cuz I seen projects with nice edges but the rest is - you know - poo ). Still, your color looks great.. andya gotta nice sheen on the leather!

Wait.. so the problem was something YOU were doing? Cuz surely nobody would be going on happily about someone selling them a machine that "wouldn't work for a year and a half"! So, what was the problem (you know, for those here who may have that same issue)? Mine -- while I wouldn't call it any kind of "precision" instrument, it also hasn't broken any needles.